Author Topic: IGT wild cherry 2 coin not cooperating (Read 13613 times)

riothecat · « **on:** November 07, 2015, 08:01:47 PM »

i have an igt wild cherry 2 coin no dollar acceptor. Last week it stopped working. First I need to purchase a door "eye" kit. A wire broke off the machine side. I will post more if that does not work. Thanks for your time

cowboygames · « **Reply #1 on:** November 07, 2015, 08:10:59 PM »

We'll need to know which model IGT you have. A picture of the front and one of the inside should work

rickhunter · « **Reply #2 on:** November 07, 2015, 08:11:56 PM »

Search on this site "door optic bypass" You can just get rid of the optics that way.

Shaggy · « **Reply #3 on:** November 07, 2015, 08:13:42 PM »

Well welcome to NLG. Thanks for the warning

but is the wire repairable? You're talking about the door optics I assume?
There are ways to correct that. Don't rush into anything until we know what's going on.

Dave

riothecat · « **Reply #4 on:** November 07, 2015, 10:41:27 PM »

Here are the front and inside.

Removed duplicate images. -knagl

riothecat · « **Reply #5 on:** November 07, 2015, 10:48:04 PM »

The cabinet side optic lost one of the wires. Too small for me to solder back on. I don't have a problem disabling it.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #6 on:** November 07, 2015, 10:57:58 PM »

<fixed photo orientation>

Is this an early IGT S+ without DBV but has motherboard for MPU to plug into?

riothecat · « **Reply #7 on:** November 07, 2015, 11:12:54 PM »

I had a problem with it a couple of years ago and folks here thought it might be an early s+ Or late s. Knagle gave me that info. "Edit" a sheet in the door says m+/s+

rokgpsman · « **Reply #8 on:** November 07, 2015, 11:18:23 PM »

Agreed. The general rule is if the MPU board plugs into another board (called the motherboard) then it is an S+. If the MPU instead is connected to wiring harnesses that connect directly to the MPU board then it is an S model.

Another reported difference is the S model does not have door optics, the S+ model does.

The S models were not built to have a bill validator, but some of the early S+ models didn't either, and that throws people off sometimes. Does the idplate below the pull handle say the model?

riothecat · « **Reply #9 on:** November 07, 2015, 11:22:33 PM »

There is a aluminum cover that has a big black knob on it that slides up and I can take that out. And slides into some type of connectors.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #10 on:** November 07, 2015, 11:26:58 PM »

Quote from: riothecat on November 07, 2015, 11:22:33 PM

There is a aluminum cover that has a big black knob on it that slides up and I can take that out. And slides into some type of connectors.

That pretty much nails it as being an S+ model. The aluminum cover has the MPU board mounted to the inside of it. The knob is used to remove the mpu from the motherboard. There is a volume control along the top edge of the MPU assembly. On newer versions of the MPU the volume level is done via software in the setup screens, so a manual volume control is missing from the MPU.

Quote from: riothecat on November 07, 2015, 11:12:54 PM

I had a problem with it a couple of years ago and folks here thought it might be an early s+ Or late s. Knagle gave me that info. "Edit" a sheet in the door says m+/s+

Speaking of Mr knagl, here's what Kevin has to say about this very subject:

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8038.msg42892#msg42892

riothecat · « **Reply #11 on:** November 07, 2015, 11:41:24 PM »

So... We've decided what model it is. Can I bypass the optic eye? I don't need it for security since it is just for my use, but, is it required? I would also like to purchase a test switch (on the front of the aluminum case that holds the MPU) it is a pretty small switch but I have a bigger one in there now.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #12 on:** November 08, 2015, 07:42:59 AM »

From what I've heard you can't bypass the optics on an S+ model. So you'd need to order a new optic sensor and replace it. If it was an S2000 model there is a way to bypass them mentioned elsewhere on NLG.

Here is a thread about it:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8003.msg42684#msg42684

Slot parts vendors sometimes have the optic parts, here is one for example, not sure if this is the correct door optic for your machine:
http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1589&search=optic

As for the TEST switch maybe someone parting out a machine has one available. You could try sending a PM to one of the vendors listed on NLG home page. Switches can be ordered from online places like Jameco, DigiKey or Mouser but you'd need to know the correct switch, have to look at another machine to see what should be there, or have someone tell you the right one so it would fit the hole correctly and attach to the wires easily with the slip on contacts. The correct pushbutton switch is probably something like this one, but with larger terminals for the slip on type contacts attached to the wires. If you don't mind soldering the switch wires to the new switch terminals then just about any switch that fits the hole will work. One thing to watch for, push button switches usually have "normally open" contacts that close (connect) when you press the button, but some push button switches are the opposite. You can check the switch in the machine now to see which type (N/O or N/C) you need.

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_121305_-1

or this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mini-Push-Button-SPST-Momentary-N-O-OFF-ON-Switch-10mm-Red-/321279754705?hash=item4acdc401d1:g:YHwAAOSwcnpTmLiq

rokgpsman · « **Reply #13 on:** November 08, 2015, 07:48:13 AM »

Quote from: rickhunter on November 07, 2015, 08:11:56 PM

Search on this site "door optic bypass" You can just get rid of the optics that way.

Rick- I searched but only found a bypass method for the S2000 model, did I miss the one for the S+ ?

cowboygames · « **Reply #14 on:** November 08, 2015, 07:57:06 AM »

I think stayouttadabunker had a way to do it posted on the old site

rickhunter · « **Reply #15 on:** November 08, 2015, 09:32:28 AM »

S+ Bypass switch http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=16714.msg141959#msg141959.

Shaggy · « **Reply #16 on:** November 08, 2015, 10:09:06 AM »

It looks like the cherry switch method will work on the early S+. I checked both of mine (early and later) and it looks like it can be done. The early machines have the optics mounted lower because of the lack of a b/v. But looking up in the reel section there seems to be room to mount the hardware. You will have to do some drilling and or tapping for mounting the brackets and switch. A little time and work but I believe you can do it. Good luck!

Dave

riothecat · « **Reply #17 on:** November 08, 2015, 12:10:23 PM »

Dave, I guess I don't know what you are talking about with a cherry switch.

Shaggy · « **Reply #18 on:** November 08, 2015, 02:24:11 PM »

The link at the bottom of rickhunter's post shows a picture of a switch that often is inside later S+ and S2000 machines. Cherry is a brand name. It's the white one at the bottom. I think most of our vendors will carry all the parts you will need to bypass the optics, if that is what you're wanting to do.

Dave

rokgpsman · « **Reply #19 on:** November 09, 2015, 06:20:22 AM »

Quote from: riothecat on November 08, 2015, 12:10:23 PM

Dave, I guess I don't know what you are talking about with a cherry switch.

It might be easier and faster for you to just replace the broken optic part.

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Author Topic: IGT wild cherry 2 coin not cooperating (Read 13613 times)