Author Topic: Double Black Tie likely with multiple issues (Resolved!) (Read 3747 times)

coinopNOldPhones · « **on:** December 24, 2020, 01:55:59 PM »

I've always wanted a slot machine, and I got this one from my boss. He had tried to work on it, but gave up. He did put a new main board and connector board in it, as well as a new battery.

Instead of describing everything I've found, I made a quick video of what it does and doesn't do. In the video, I stated I didn't have the hopper, I now have it and it's installed, but there is no difference in what the machine does. The power connector is not burnt, and the reels are locked when it's powered on


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cct7dKEne1w

I'd like to get this up and going, as I think it would be a cool addition to my collection of coin op stuff. I have experience working with electronics and mains electrical circuits, and I'm pretty good at soldering, so as long as it's nothing too complex, I can likely fix it, I just need a starting point, as this is new ground for me.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #1 on:** December 25, 2020, 10:25:37 AM »

ok...we need to get your reel glass display panel board working 1st.
On the reel display panel, there should be two connectors running to the bottom of it.One would be near the center and one would be located near the door hinge side of it.
Find the two connectors and plug them into the display panel...they will be black of different pin amount.
I think I briefly saw in your video of you holding a black Molex connector on the door...that is one of them.The connector that was red, ignore that one....it's for a small line bet display circuit board that sort of looks like a white plastic ice cube tray which isn't needed for your game.
Don't worry about the bill validator right now but DO put some electrical tape on the two bare wires that are sticking out for now.
NOW, turn on the power switch....don't turn any keys or push any buttons and show me a still photo of you reel glass display or tell me exactly what is showing or lit up.
From there, I can tell you exactly what to do next.
Remember, do not install or remove any component with the power switch on.If you do this, then we can be sure that you're not shorting anything out.Before you re-insert the MPU tray back into the MPU housing on the back wall, carefully inspect all the tiny pins on the bottom of the MPU board to see if any are folded over or bent.If any are bent, use a pair of tweezers or fine needle nosed pliers to straighten them and then re-install the CPU and turn on the power switch and report back with as much details as you can.

coinopNOldPhones · « **Reply #2 on:** December 25, 2020, 11:08:55 AM »

Ok, for the reel glass display board, I do not see an open socket for the black molex connector, there are 2 connectors on the board, and both have cables plugged into them. Here's a pic of it with me holding the "orphan" connector

No bent pins on the MPU, and no connectors look burnt or damaged. I taped off the bare wires after the video. I noticed the coin comparator doesn't have the green LED lit either, could that be related?

Ken · « **Reply #3 on:** December 25, 2020, 11:13:59 AM »

That connector in your in fingers is for a multi line display which your machine doesn't have. So it's okay not being plugged into anything.

coinopNOldPhones · « **Reply #4 on:** December 25, 2020, 11:22:46 AM »

Awesome, thanks for the info. Any other stuff I should check to figure out why the display isn't lit?

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #5 on:** December 25, 2020, 12:57:31 PM »

yes...between the power supply and the motherboard on the floor is the power harness....at the motherboard connection, it is a 6-Pin wire rectangular Molex connector with a pair of green wires, orange wires and two other wires I forget what color they are as I am not sitting in front of a slot machine at the moment.

With the power off, pull off that connector and turn it around....it may be burned slightly brown/tann-ish looking on one female pin on the white housing.

Basically the pins after time, tend to oxidize and become weaker than arc inside browning the white housing to the point where the contact point or the female/male is pretty bad and non-existent....if so, pt it back on for now.

You can do this without getting shocked....>>>

Turn on the power switch, reach inside and gently rocked left and right that white Molex on the motherboard by grasping the wires at least an inch away from the top of the Molex housing.
While you are doing that....observe the three reels closely....you will see them shift up or down.

What is happening is that inside the Molex, the female pins are touching cleaner contact areas of the male pins and the reel motors are either getting power or losing power.

The act of rocking the Molex connector brushes off some of the oxidization OFF of the pins helping you get power to the motherboard from the power supply box.

So, rock the Molex slightly upwards until you can see the reels move ajar.

Then gently put a couple of fingers on the actual reel tape and try to feel the slight resistance of you moving the reel basket.

If there is resistance, then you have power to the reels is what is what it's supposed to be.

Now, without touching anything else, look around at the door panel from the front and tell us if you see any reel glass display panel LEDs are lit up or not and what they are displaying.

coinopNOldPhones · « **Reply #6 on:** December 25, 2020, 02:19:44 PM »

I did check the white power connector as one of my first things, after reading it can be a problem. This one looks pretty clean, no burnt spots, and the inside pins are shiny, no signs of oxidization or arcing. I did wiggle the plug with power on, and the reels stay locked (they do free spin with power off, as I'd assume is normal) Nothing whatsoever on the LED readouts, they are completely off.

I found one of the connections to the arm/handle had been removed, and I reinserted it on the micro switch inside the handle assembly, but that didn't change anything.

Tilt · « **Reply #7 on:** December 25, 2020, 02:54:41 PM »

From watching the video I think your MPU board is booting correctly, but you can't see it because the LED display is not working. It probably has a 61 error that needs to be cleared from changing the battery. The problem with the LED display could be the display itself, the cabling to it, or the MPU. I'd look at the cabling and make sure everything is connected properly first.

coinopNOldPhones · « **Reply #8 on:** December 25, 2020, 03:23:37 PM »

This is kind of what I was wondering. The fact that I'm getting codes on the candle made me think there's at least some life in the MPU. I've checked the cables, everything seems secure, and the connections look clean. How would I determine which one it is(display or MPU?) The green LED on the coin comparator is not lit either, so I'll go over the wiring again, make sure no wires got pinched or cut.

Tilt · « **Reply #9 on:** December 25, 2020, 03:46:32 PM »

Since you had a leaking battery on the original MPU board you may want to pull and inspect the motherboard (on the bottom of the cabinet) for signs of damage too. With the MPU being installed vertically the battery may have leaked down on to it as well.

It's hard to say which one may be bad. Pull the display board off the machine and inspect it for any visible signs of damage. If you don't see anything swapping them out one at a time is really the only way find out.

coinopNOldPhones · « **Reply #10 on:** December 25, 2020, 04:04:37 PM »

I forgot to mention, the motherboard was replaced too, as it did indeed suffer damage. I received the original (damaged) MCU and MB with the machine.

I did determine that the coin comparitor is likely bad, no lit LED, and it is in fact getting 24 volts. All the wiring between the door and display look intact. I'll likely start with the display first, and see if that fixes anything. The display board appears undamaged, no obviously bad components, and no signs of physical damage.

Do you have any experience with Worldwide Gaming for parts? They seem to have most of the parts for the S+ machines, and their prices seem decent. Are there any other things I should go ahead and order along with the display?

Ken · « **Reply #11 on:** December 25, 2020, 04:11:25 PM »

I have S+ parts. Cheaper than them and I don't charge tax.

But the display is one piece I would have to make sure I still have available.

Tilt · « **Reply #12 on:** December 25, 2020, 04:18:33 PM »

Sorry, I forgot to tell you it's normal for the comparitor LED to be off. I think it illuminates when it's ready to accept a coin which means the door has to be closed and you won't see it.

I haven't personally no, but they don't have the best reputation around here. Someone may chime in on that. I'd check with Jim (Midwest slots) or Ken.

Edit: I see Ken already reached out to you when I went to post this. Thanks Ken.

coinopNOldPhones · « **Reply #13 on:** December 25, 2020, 04:42:18 PM »

Ken, if you have one, I'd be interested in it.

Tilt, good to know, I figured people on here would know the best sources.

Ken · « **Reply #14 on:** December 25, 2020, 04:59:06 PM »

Just checked. I don't have any left for the S+.

Jim - Midwest Slots .. probably has one. He has a number up top of the home page.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #15 on:** December 25, 2020, 05:22:56 PM »

I agree with the guys above, I'd be swapping out that reel glass display panel too.

I do wonder however, is the .25 cent center lamp lit up?

Can you throw a multimeter on to the two contact points around the socket hole and see if there's voltage going to it?

I'm surprised that both connections of the display would be out.

Anyway, this is a way to check if at least that part works.Also, check the middle fuse on the power supply box.

The bottom one is the main power supply fuse but the top and middle ones affect the display and fluorescent lights...I just forget offhand whch one is which..

They should be as follows.

6amp=top
8amp=middle
6amp=bottom

coinopNOldPhones · « **Reply #16 on:** December 25, 2020, 06:05:11 PM »

The 25 cent light is lit, and all 3 fuses are good. There are some IC's on the board, guess one could have failed.

I'll message Jim, and see about ordering a new display, then maybe I can make some progress on it.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #17 on:** December 25, 2020, 06:29:42 PM »

With your machine OFF, turn your reels by hand. Now turn the machine ON and do the same. Are the reels now stiff or are they the same as when the machine is OFF? Since you changed the MB, did you make sure all the plugs are right. Here is a diagram of the MB. Open the word doc. to show voltages from power supply

Tilt · « **Reply #18 on:** December 25, 2020, 06:32:39 PM »

He checked that in Reply #6 and you can see in the video that the stepper motors are energized when it is powered up.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #19 on:** December 25, 2020, 06:37:13 PM »

Got lazy and didn't start at the beginning. I had one once that had no display, even after changing it. I did a clear for the heck of it. With the clear it lit up and counted. Then I found changing the SP chip fixed it

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Author Topic: Double Black Tie likely with multiple issues (Resolved!) (Read 3747 times)