Author Topic: Impulsive slot machine buy IGT S+ - Probably many issues. (Read 3893 times)

banyans · « **on:** March 09, 2021, 06:12:45 PM »

Hello,
As the title says, I was impulsive.
My background: I had 3 IGT S+ machines 12 years ago in California. All were working and never had any major issues that closing the door/turning on & off didn't solve.
(Also had a IGT S2000 and 2 nightmare electro-mechanical Ballys)

Sold all the machines back then and moved to Hawaii. Fast forward to 2021 and I came across this machine here on our island. Previous owner said it worked great and then just stopped working. Been sitting for a couple years. I checked out the machine, all lights/LCDs powered up but that was it. I know the IGT S+ was very user/maintenance friendly so I bit the bullet.

Got the machine home, fired it up, reels moved slightly and error 43 came up and stayed up. Starting reading the posts on this forum and started trouble shooting. Switched harness from reel 2 to reel 3 and error changed to 42. Switched out reel 3 assembly with reel 1 assembly, error changed to 41.
Performed the reel input tests and reel 1 & 2 changed from 0/1 when rotated, reel 3 did nothing. So I assume it is a reel/optics issue with reel 3 and ordered a replacement reel from KLAR on this site. (should be here near the end of the week) I also removed and tried to clean the optic sensor as well as plug pins, same 43 error.

While removing and switching things around the LCDs went out. Again, read thru this forum and found the power harness with a brown spot. Unplugged and cleaned connections, LCDs work again. Ordered a new harness from Ken on this site cause I know I will need it.

So, now as I wait for the replacement reel I have gone thru the self test modes the best I can. Can go thru everything pretty much but when I did the reel spin it stopped and went to error 43.

The bill acceptor does not do anything but light up the outside bezel. The coin mechanism does not light up either but I thought that was correct as the machine is in tilt mode with door open.

So, should the bill acceptor cycle or make any noise? Or not because in tilt mode?

Trying not to mess with it too much until replacement reel is here to see if that solves a lot my issues.
I have attached some pics of the machine.

I am starting this post a little ahead of time to gather as much info as possible so my next post hopefully wont be so lengthy.

Thank you for reading and any input/comments are welcome.
Philip

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #1 on:** March 09, 2021, 08:16:08 PM »

You're doing the right...wait for the replacement reel to come in.

It sounds like an oxidized or pushed in male pin in the 3rd reel harness' Molex connector.

Look inside and see if any of the pins is lower than the rest.

If so, use a small screwdriver from behind and push the pin back in further.

Tug on the corresponding wire and see if it comes back out at all.

If it pretty much seems to be okay...plug it back into the 3rd reel connector and see what happens.

Other thing you can do is follow that color wire back to the motherboard connector.

It's a long black connector on the motherboard.

There's a push latch on the front of located center-wise.

Depress on lever and wiggle up connector free from the pins.

Then push it back on....this action may rub some of the oxidization off of the pins and promoted somewhat better contact.

Remember, turn off the power switch first.

Good luck!

Jim · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2021, 11:11:36 PM »

yes the bill unit should go through its start up sequence, two distinct noise patterns, one heavy grinding noise, then a gentler noise. check to see if the two red LEDS are on, (located left side, right above the power connector from the black power supply mounted on the side of the housing, make sure cash can is present and pushed all the way to the rear).

Jim

knagl · « **Reply #3 on:** March 10, 2021, 02:14:18 AM »

The machine will not attempt to accept coins or bills until you have cleared the reel tilt, which hopefully the replacement reel will fix.

As mentioned above, the bill validator should still make some noise during the power-on sequence, although it will not attempt to take in a bill while the machine has a tilt condition.

banyans · « **Reply #4 on:** March 10, 2021, 12:30:11 PM »

Ok, thank you for the responses.

Is it possible that I turned the bill acceptor off or disabled it when I was going thru the self test/input/output tests? I was kind of winging it using the diagnostic cards and really am not to sure if im doing it right. I did get some of the tests to work like the bell, speaker, individual lights. Is there a step by step procedure on activating the bill acceptor thru the test modes?
Any and all suggestions are welcome.
Thanks again

banyans · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2021, 01:58:18 PM »

In self test the code is set to 9 0-1

Jim · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2021, 03:19:52 PM »

As long as the power supply is plugged into the machine harness, the red LEDS are on, all components are present, then it should cycle and do something! the bill unit is a separate unit unto itself, it supplies its own power, runs its own power on sequence, the only information it needs from the machine is the communication, rx and tx data to let the machine know what it is doing, when the bill unit detects something is wrong with it, it will disable itself so the machine can be used on coins, it does this by turning off the bezel lamps on the door front.

Jim

banyans · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2021, 03:38:42 PM »

Thanks for the response,

So fooling around with the test modes I can just about do everything, ie: bells, lights, sounds, hopper rotating, etc. Nothing from bill acceptor except I can get the bezel to light up when testing. There is a board mounted on the left side of the bill acceptor that has a black plastic cover on it. Removed the cover and I can see plenty of corrosion on the board. Wires/harness feed into this and out to the bill acceptor. Do you think this could be the problem? I removed the plastic cover with the power on and by accident brushed the board with the back of my hand and felt power as in voltage.

Should I remove this board and try to clean or just sit tight and wait till I can clear out the 43 error first and go from there?

Here is a couple pics of the board with the cover removed.

Thanks

jay · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2021, 04:00:17 PM »

To "activate" the bill acceptor for your machine you need a SET chip. Bottom right of the home page is Ricks FAQ that describes how to use it.

Regardless if the acceptor is active or not, when you turn on the S+ power the validator makes all sorts of horrible noises as it goes through its self checks.
I would remove the bill head I think this is two screws and a leaver. There is a small wiring harness that gets unplugged.

Check the pins in the wiring harness for corrosion - I use one of those white erasers to clean tarnish and such off of pins.
Plug it all back in, power on the machine and see if it makes noise.

banyans · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2021, 04:41:54 PM »

Thanks Jay,
I have removed the unit but didnt do anything but reinstall. I will remove and try to clean per your instructions.

As far as being "activated". Previous owner said it did work before. So would I need to reactivate it if it was already working?

Thanks

jay · « **Reply #10 on:** March 10, 2021, 04:57:15 PM »

It doesn't sound like you need to reactivate it.If you change games, change battery on the MPU, run a Clear chip through it (and bring it back to factory) you will need to reactivate it.
A Set Chip and Clear Chip are good things to have around, not expensive etc.
Once again the fact that the bezel lights up is a good sign that its active.

Your question was ... hey did I perhaps deactivate the beast.... my reply... was regardless of the activation it should moan and groan....upon power up.

Right now it sounds like your not getting power to your bill head. You mentioned you felt a buzz ... I would get a meter out and check the voltages on those pins.
I don't know the voltages to help you with this but some of other members might be able to rattle this off.

Jim · « **Reply #11 on:** March 11, 2021, 08:55:48 AM »

In reply 2 and 6 I asked you to check the RED LEDS ON THE 200 HEAD, if they are on then it means your power is good and supplying the voltage to the unit.

IT DOESN'T MATTER IF THE UNIT IS ENABLED, IF YOU APPLY POWER TO THE MACHINE, AND IF THE POWER SUPPLY IS GOOD, AND ALL THE COMPONENTS ARE THERE, THEN THE BILL UNIT SHOULD CYCLE.

since you can do all the test features, check out test 5_0,5_1,or 5_2, step through that menu and when you get to #9, if it is a 9_1, then the machine has the bill unit enabled, then go to the denomination test, a #6 in the coins played window, if you hear the solenoid click, and see 25 in the winner paid window, and you can not advance it by pushing the spin reels button, then the denomination is set properly. then

when you get unit to function the machine will be able to talk to it.

you also have a JCM bezel indicator.

Jim

banyans · « **Reply #12 on:** March 11, 2021, 10:17:36 AM »

Thanks Jim,

There are no LEDs on the unit that I can see. And yes I did go thru the self tests and it is set at 9_1 and denomination is set for 25 cents. I was also able to get the out side bezel of the bill acceptor to light up using the tests as well. But thats it.

Can you tell me exactly where the LEDs are supposed to be? The little circuit board mounted on the left of the bill acceptor seems to be getting low voltage power to it as I brushed my hand on it and got a little shock.

I am going to remove the unit today and clean up the connections the best I can. Do you know how I can test for power at the connections. Im not a whiz with a meter but I have one.

Thanks again for the responses

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #13 on:** March 11, 2021, 10:33:04 AM »

It's that time of the year.....electrostatic electricity....zapping everything as you walk across the carpet.

You could probably stick a slot machine to your head! haha

Always ground yourself to the machine before digging around in there.
Try to keep a hand or bare finger at least touching the metal cabinet or something.

jay · « **Reply #14 on:** March 11, 2021, 10:47:26 AM »

To that point a spray bottle filled with water with a little downy fabric softener can be sprayed on carpets and such to eliminate static from your carpets.

I had a client (lawyer) in the 80's that had a data closet in their offices which were wall to wall carpet. I suggested we remove the carpet in the data room as anyone who touched the system got a mild zap and the system would reboot. The lawyers were not having their plush carpet removed for any reason. We ended up removing the metal stand the server was on, and put it on a plastic one, grounding the server to the telco bus bar and treating the rug regularly with downy.

I still think Bunks suggestion of a static strap is a good practice when playing with the guts.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #15 on:** March 11, 2021, 11:00:13 AM »

I noticed that f I stop shifting my butt on my cheap plastic chair all the time, the zaps were less frequent.

I got rid of that chair...tore out the carpeting to plywood flooring and got a plain ol' wooden chair...

Problem solved up here in my workroom!

jay · « **Reply #16 on:** March 11, 2021, 11:15:52 AM »

So what your saying is that your not a lawyer...

banyans · « **Reply #17 on:** March 11, 2021, 11:35:26 AM »

I dont think it was static electricity, I think it was actual power/voltage/amperage at the little board. I removed the plastic cover with the power on and as I brushed along the board I could feel the shock.
Where I live it is super humid, no dry air. My house is basically open air, year round. The machine is sitting on a rug but thats it.

I used to live in Michigan and would get the static shocks during the winter when everything inside was dry so I kinda know the difference. But.....Ive been wrong plenty of times!!

Jim · « **Reply #18 on:** March 13, 2021, 09:28:56 AM »

here is a picture of the LEDS. Jim

banyans · « **Reply #19 on:** March 13, 2021, 10:37:01 AM »

Thank you Jim, Mine are not lighting up.

But....new reel came in yesterday and it lives. (well, everything but the bill acceptor)
All buttons, lights, sounds, hopper, credits... Pretty happy so far. Im gonna play with it for a day or so at the same time reading/troubleshooting the bill acceptor.
At least now that it works it gives me motivation to do more, such as build a stand and clean the machine up better.

One thing I dont like is the loud clicking from what I assume to be the coin in/coin out counters. Can I disconnect these?

Thank you everyone for the help/advice/suggestions so far.

Philip

(Should I start a new thread under the DBV-200 board as I go forward or continue on here?)

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Author Topic: Impulsive slot machine buy IGT S+ - Probably many issues. (Read 3893 times)