Welcome back!

First lets test the key lock lever. When you turn the key the lever should block the switch photo eye and the LED light should go out. If it does we're good, if not try blocking with a piece of paper. If it's still on the switch is bad.

Next we need to find the 32vdc to the coin comparator. Yep, the violet & blue wires should have 32vdc but only when the machine is ready to run. On the CN-10 9 pin plug (see photo) check for 32vdc between pin 7 (violet) and pin 8 (black). If the CN39 pigtail is there it's easier to check for voltage at the pigtail. The black wire and violet wire should have 32vdc. The blue wire is the comparator inhibit control wire. So if we have 32vdc between the violet and black wires then I still think there's a permissive holding us out.

Also take a look at the backside of the white cherry switch, the wires need to be connected the same as the ones in the attached photo.

Pull harder! 

Or push in, pull out repeatedly. That might get 'er out.

The counter mechanism is what I can not get out...  The pin has been pulled, I have put power to it, the crank turns....  Nothing is bound up..  I just can not get the counter mechanism out to work on and clean up...  When I attempt to pull it out, it moves about 1/4 inch and stops... 

 Found a video of a similar model.  If you skip to approx. time 19:06 it will show the disassembly.

 https://youtu.be/4tDwlJizvu8?si=D4Rp0JAjC8derBYJ

The only part of the top is where the two flaps open to drop the coins into the counter.  The base case is made of about 3/8 inch steel, this was made in the early 20's, they were made with steel back then.  Not with recycled beer cans like today... lol  The bottom case alone weighs about 45 pounds...  I also hope that someone out there knows about these and can help.  I have restored the glass top half, but need to get the lower drawer out to finish the redo...