Author Topic: Any information on DYNA slot? (Read 4561 times)

tomcat68 · « **on:** August 18, 2018, 05:31:02 PM »

Does anyone know about one of these? It says Dyna electronics. The date on it is 1984. There are no tags or any type of ID other than the screen and the PCB's saying Dyana. Any information would greatly be appreciated.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #1 on:** August 18, 2018, 05:41:00 PM »

I didn't see anything in the NLG download area like manuals, drawings, etc for Dyna.

No stickers on the interior walls in the lower area? No manufacturers label on the side or top of cabinet? No electrical spec tag that gives the operating voltage and other info? What about labels on the software chips on the main circuit board?

Is the display a crt or an LCD?

tomcat68 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 18, 2018, 06:03:29 PM »

Here are some more pictures, maybe they will help. There are no labels or stickers only a serial number with no name. It is a CRT monitor.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #3 on:** August 18, 2018, 06:56:33 PM »

The bottom board in the double-stacked set of boards might have some labels on its chips.

I think there was a company called Dyna that made a bunch of Cherry Master type machines at one time. Don't know if this machine is from the same company but I wouldn't be surprised. They built the cabinet like an arcade game cabinet, added a display monitor and some small circuit boards to run the game. Used to see them at bars and places like that. The design and internal construction on this machine reminds me of those type game machines. Inside they often use wooden boards. They were video only, no mechanical reels, that kept it simple. Basically like a PacMan arcade game, just different software. The hopper in this machine looks like its bowl has been cut down roughly (with jaggies) so that the coin chute will fit.

Below is a pair of stacked Dyna boards for sale that look similar to the ones in your machine. It even has the same orange and white stick-on dots for getting the connector plugged in properly. So your machine (or the electronics) is probably made by the same Japanese company that made a lot of arcade and what many would say were low-end gambling machines. Although the price tag for them was often more than you'd imagine. Probably didn't see many/any in larger casinos but bars and gas stations in states that allow gambling machines just about anywhere but a church building (Louisiana) had them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dyna-Electronics-JAPAN-Arcade-Game-Board-N-251107A/221653281254?hash=item339b90a9e6:g:kKwAAOSwDwtUqbEY

tomcat68 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 19, 2018, 07:21:40 AM »

The boards on ebay are just like mine. The serial number on it is less than 300 from the serial number on my machine. I wonder what the odds of it being the same type game are? It is almost worth the $14 to find out.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #5 on:** August 19, 2018, 08:29:43 AM »

Not able to know what software is installed on the ebay boards but that could be a way for you to get another game for your machine. Although it might require a different button arrangement to play.

Also, if you plan to keep this machine it might be good to get the boards for spares.

tomcat68 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 19, 2018, 05:21:00 PM »

Does anyone have an idea on the twosblue bulb shaped pieces next to the orange dot on the conector? One of them is broken, when it broke the sound quit working. The pins going to it have 12v DC. I have another board on order, just curious if it would be possible to fix this one.

tomcat68 · « **Reply #7 on:** August 19, 2018, 06:20:10 PM »

OK, I decided it was a capacitor. Is there any way to identify it without a schematic?

rokgpsman · « **Reply #8 on:** August 19, 2018, 06:49:14 PM »

Quote from: tomcat68 on August 19, 2018, 06:20:10 PM

OK, I decided it was a capacitor. Is there any way to identify it without a schematic?

Do you mean the blue components I've circled in photo below? If so then yes they look like tantalum electrolyic capacitors to me. You should be able to look on the body of the capacitor for writing that gives the size, like 47uF or something similar. There will also be a voltage spec written on it, like 15 volts or whatever.

Did the cap blow up, or get broken while the machine was operating? If so there may be another problem that caused it to fail.

Paul · « **Reply #9 on:** August 19, 2018, 07:02:07 PM »

Looks like $14 might be a good investment.

tomcat68 · « **Reply #10 on:** August 21, 2018, 06:04:55 PM »

Just my luck the ebay seller can't find the boards. The machine has a relay that runs the coin hopper. It is kind of patched in looking. I had been having problems with the machine seeming to loose power when it tried to payout intermittently. I was trying to check and see if there was power going to the relay and hit the low voltage wire with the meter probe. That is when the capacitor blew. The one next to it says 22 over 16 with a + on one side. The game still works except for the sound and the payout is still intermittent. I has always gone to a red screen like the video looses power when the payout malfunctions. There is some corrosion on the board appearing from a mouse nest probably. Who knows, I may have a parts machine at the least.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #11 on:** August 21, 2018, 07:43:31 PM »

Sounds like it is a 22uF, 16 volt cap. You can post a photo of the blowed-up cap and we can verify that. Or did it burn so badly that you can't read it's markings? The cap next to it is probably the same kind but without a schematic that's just a guess. Best if you can read the markings on the cap that needs replaced. Or the same cap on the board that you bought from ebay.

The + marking means it is a polarized capacitor, you have to install it correctly or it could short and burn up. There should be a + marking on the board also. On some electrolytic caps the negative lead is marked, so it varies. But it looks like these are tantalum caps and they usually mark the + lead.

Good that the only problem with the machine is missing sound. Could that be caused by anything else, like did you change any settings or disconnect a speaker wire by accident? Is the hopper relay a part that you can get a replacement for? Since it is "patched-in" then someone may have replaced it in the past and used one that wasn't exactly like the original, had to adapt. If it is a relay that is rated at a lower amp spec or if it has a relay coil that is spec'd at a different voltage from the original relay then that might be why it is intermittent. When the hopper motor is switched on that will put a load on whatever power supply voltage it operates from, could be glitching the power supply and that is causing the red screen symptoms that happen when the hopper switches on. Is the hopper motor the kind that runs off 115 volts ac power, or something lower like 24 volts?

Hopefully the ebay seller will find those boards, they would be really handy to have.

tomcat68 · « **Reply #12 on:** August 23, 2018, 05:09:15 PM »

There isn't enough of the blown capacitor to read. Now the machine is working great hopper pays out like it should. If the sound was fixed it would be great. What would it hurt if I purchased a capacitor of the same values of the one next to it and replaced the blown one(worst case scenario). Right now there are the two leads left from the old capacitor. Could I use jumper wires and temporarily hook up the replacement for test purposes?

The power to the hopper comes from the same transformer the feeds the rest of the machine. The transformer has two voltages 110 for the hopper and 100 to the rest of the machine.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #13 on:** August 23, 2018, 06:25:12 PM »

You could rig a couple of wires attached to the old capacitor's leads and then connect the other ends of those 2 wires to a new capacitor. It would be better to solder them but if you aren't able to do that and you are very careful to not let the wires touch something they aren't supposed to it will work. I'd use insulated wire to be less chance of the wire shorting to something it shouldn't. Solid wire would be good, you can wrap it a few turns around the new capacitor's leads and also around the old capacitor's leads that are still attached to the board. That will make a better mechanical connection if you aren't going to solder them. Be sure to get the new capacitor + lead attached to the correct wire that goes to the + connection on the circuit board.

Without the old capacitor or the schematic drawing or another identical board to examine it isn't possible to know what the value of the replacement capacitor should be. The worst case scenario would be if that cap that blew up was one with a higher voltage spec, like a 35 volt cap and you install a 16 volt cap. It will fry from being over-voltaged. And that sometimes does damage to more than just the cap that burns.

Capacitors like that are usually just filter caps, and I'm not sure replacing it will restore your sound. But it also could be a capacitor in the audio circuit, they are often in series with the audio signal so if they are removed no sound could be the result. Maybe that is what is going on. Plus you believe that the sound stopped working when the cap blew up. However if the cap blew up because you shorted something with your meter lead that could have also zapped the sound.

If you want to try a replacement cap that is the same size as the one next to it on the board then give it a shot and be ready to switch off power quickly if you need to. Don't want to burn the board if the capacitor fries. A voltage spec for a cap (16 volts in this case we think) is the max it can handle, if you want to get a capacitor that has a higher voltage spec that is ok. For example, a 22uF, 25 volt cap will work in place of a 22uF, 16 volt cap. It's just that the higher the voltage spec the larger the physical size of the cap is. The voltage spec isn't what the voltage will actually be on the capacitor, it is the max voltage that can be on the capacitor before it breaks down.

Again, be very sure you get the + lead on the replacement capacitor connected to the + connection on the circuit board.

Did the ebay seller find the $14 spare boards? If he did and they are on the way to you I would wait and examine the cap on that board from ebay so you will know for certain what size it is. Good Luck!

Paul · « **Reply #14 on:** August 23, 2018, 07:44:45 PM »

Here's another pair.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Liner-Mystery-Pcbs/273419192429?hash=item3fa90dc86d:g:kiIAAOSw~Flbe3In

tomcat68 · « **Reply #15 on:** August 24, 2018, 07:35:04 PM »

Thanks for the heads up. I am in the process of getting them.

tomcat68 · « **Reply #16 on:** August 30, 2018, 04:49:38 PM »

I got the boards today. Plugged the first up and it was the same game and worked great. Volume is low. Is there a way to adjust it? There is also a dip switch on the board it was set to accumulate coins not to pay out. Switched them to match the old board and it pays out like it should.

Paul · « **Reply #17 on:** August 30, 2018, 05:37:28 PM »

Glad you got it going!
Post some pictures of the game working for future reference.

tomcat68 · « **Reply #18 on:** September 01, 2018, 06:47:21 AM »

What kind of pictures would you like to see?

Paul · « **Reply #19 on:** September 01, 2018, 07:44:16 AM »

Just some shots for reference of a good working machine.
So if another person wants to know whats normal they can refer to your pictures.

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Author Topic: Any information on DYNA slot? (Read 4561 times)