Bally E2270 Error Code

[mwade109]

Well, as much as I dislike working on old Bally machines, this is the last one I have laying around my cargo trailer.  I am telling myself DO NOT BUY anymore old Bally machines but for some reason, when the price is just so low, I have to buy it.

This machine powers on, gets 40..76 in the display.  The lights all come on and that's about it. The 1st reel is locked into position, the other two spin freely when touched.
Anyone know what this code it?  I assume that is a battery on the board on the left side (long white thing) and if so, I would assume it has been dead for many years. I didn't see any markings in it at first glance, anyone have a part number or know the voltage required?

One of the chips in the picture looks like it has had something ooze out of it somewhere in the past, at first I thought it was old tape but I'm not convinced of that, never saw this before.  I am going to clean it up and pull/reseat the chip, other than that, everything looks visually fine.

Thanks
-mike

[dhellis]

This isn't a standard code, this is a code that one would get with a malfunction on the board. Could be one of the
3 bipolar proms (U8, U17 or U`9) , bad ram  (U23, U24), cpu clock or something else.

The red tape is actually something that the Nevada Gaming board would do to seal the chips to prevent
casino's from making modifications. You can clean it up as it has no other function.

The battery is a 3.6 volt NiCD battery. GOS (one of the NLG members) may have those available.
Another member (badbaud) repairs these boards.

[mwade109]

Thanks, not exactly what I was hoping to hear.  Honestly, I cant send the board out for repair as I am just getting back to work after covid related not-voluntarily unemployment.  But as for the tape, I am quite familiar with the gaming tape and don't think that it the issue on that chip.  I attached some closer pics of it.
Thanks for the info tho.
-mike

This isn't a standard code, this is a code that one would get with a malfunction on the board. Could be one of the
3 bipolar proms (U8, U17 or U`9) , bad ram  (U23, U24), cpu clock or something else.

The red tape is actually something that the Nevada Gaming board would do to seal the chips to prevent
casino's from making modifications. You can clean it up as it has no other function.

The battery is a 3.6 volt NiCD battery. GOS (one of the NLG members) may have those available.
Another member (badbaud) repairs these boards.

[ramegoom]

Looks like some sort of residue from adhesive. Pull it out of the socket and inspect the socket terminals; if it hasn't made it down to the terminals, it's not corrosion.

I'd try to clean it up and see if the base metal pins are still plated and looking normal. If it's corrosion, the socket took a hit and would need to be replaced. And a replacement E755-133 programmed EPROM is available if the chip is damaged.

[mwade109]

Well, I don't know what it was but it was hard like ceramic, it did not get to the socket so the legs inside the socket already looked good.  I cleaned up the chip as much as possible and put it back in.  Pushed down any other chips I saw on the board and installed a temporary battery. It DID change what was on the display now it says 
50 .0.06.

Does those numbers mean anything or am I still in the same boat?

[Badbaud]

Chips have nothing to ooze inside them. Some boards I have gotten in had that same adhesive at the end of each chip to ensure the chip didn't get removed, and if it did the broken adhesive would be a clue.

Poor man security tape?

There is a sticky in the E-Series section on the mods of how to install a Lithium Ion battery. NiCads have a tendency to leak and eat boards.

You have a display showing a 40 and reel 1 is frozen, try re-lubing the reel mech.

[GOS]

the 6 indicated power issue - check the power supply especially the edge connections

[mwade109]

So today I had encouragement! 
What I did today was took out the reel assembly, put it on the bench.
Tested every micro switch I found... all good.
Unplugged and replugged in every connector I could find.
Decided to try to figure out how the reel assembly worked, found the release lever disengaging the reels and found that if I push any of the relays under the reels it releases the reel stops. Works great by hand, nothing stuck or hard to spin.

Found two buttons on the hopper, the one on the left seems to do nothing but make all lights dim when I hold it in.  The button on the right seems to be a self test of all the relays, makes all kinds of racket!

Anyway, got everything back together and it actually looks like it is going to work. Says 'Insert coin', it sees each of the 3 coins I insert, releases the arm, pull the arm, reels spin..... and spin.... and spin.... until 'tilt' on the front and blinking between 41 000 and 1 000 in the readout. Apparently it does not know when to activate the relays to tell the reels to stop.  If I push the hopper test button, it resets the relays and can look like it will lay again.  I don't believe the relays are bad as the test activates them.

I never see any action whatsoever on the hopper. Does anyone know if it is 110v and can just hook a wire to the motor to see if it spins? I seem to remember doing that with s+ or s2000 (i forget which one, I am old)

[Badbaud]

Download the free E-Series manual on my website www.slotmachinerepair.com under "helpful PDF's"

Do test #3 and see if your kick and arm switches are working.

Do a test 5 to see if your reel reader circuit is working.

[mwade109]

Thanks, d/l'ed the manual.
The kick and arm switches seem to be working properly, they change the numbers when pushed as well as continuity test on my multimeter.
I am not quite sure about test 5, when I hit the button 5 times, after a second it displays 1.31...  , I am not sure how to read that even looking at the manual. If I'm reading it correctly, it says to move one of the reels and the number will change.  But at that point the reels are locked in place and cannot be spun.

BTW...Thank you for your help.

Download the free E-Series manual on my website www.slotmachinerepair.com under "helpful PDF's"

Do test #3 and see if your kick and arm switches are working.

Do a test 5 to see if your reel reader circuit is working.

[Badbaud]

There is usually enough play on a reel where you can pull it forward to see the change.

Another way to do a test 5 is to pull the narrow metal tab on top of the handle box forward and pull the handle.
All of the reels will be free to spin, grab a reel at a time and line it up on the center to see a number relating to the symbol shown.

[mwade109]

I went ahead and released the reels through the arm and I have to say I have no idea what I'm looking at! It has confused me so much I made a couple videos and uploaded them to my YouTube channel in hopes that maybe you could find time to take a look.  https://www.youtube.com/user/mwade109/videos

There is usually enough play on a reel where you can pull it forward to see the change.

Another way to do a test 5 is to pull the narrow metal tab on top of the handle box forward and pull the handle.
All of the reels will be free to spin, grab a reel at a time and line it up on the center to see a number relating to the symbol shown.

[Badbaud]

The binary codes on the black disk that the reel is bolted to corresponds to symbols on the reel.

For example, if you hold reel #1 steady so a cherry. or bar, or any other symbol is in the middle of the glass showing the pay line a number will be shown on the display in the second position.

There should be 4 numbers showing on the display for a 3 reel test 5.
The first number will be a #1 indicating you are viewing the first pay line.
The next 3 numbers will show the reel symbol number.
Depending on the software a plum would show a 1, a bell would show a 3, a cherry would show a "c", no symbol would show a blank space.
The results would be 113c on the display.
If you leave reels 2 and 3 where they are and move reel 1 so it also shows a bell the results on the display would be 133c

[mwade109]

Holy crap, YOU should have written the manual on it!  I did exactly as you said and got the results as you called it. With the different symbols on the center lines it gives the corresponding numbers in the proper LED segments. Does this pinpoint it to a certain item being bad?
Mike

The binary codes on the black disk that the reel is bolted to corresponds to symbols on the reel.

For example, if you hold reel #1 steady so a cherry. or bar, or any other symbol is in the middle of the glass showing the pay line a number will be shown on the display in the second position.

There should be 4 numbers showing on the display for a 3 reel test 5.
The first number will be a #1 indicating you are viewing the first pay line.
The next 3 numbers will show the reel symbol number.
Depending on the software a plum would show a 1, a bell would show a 3, a cherry would show a "c", no symbol would show a blank space.
The results would be 113c on the display.
If you leave reels 2 and 3 where they are and move reel 1 so it also shows a bell the results on the display would be 133c

[Badbaud]

No it points to your reel decoder board, your reel reader cards, and associated wiring working fine.

[mwade109]

That's both, good news and bad news. Any idea what path to take now, or what boards to send in to be checked?  How about power... although I am not a electronics technician, cannot read schematics, I am capable of testing voltages on a power supply if I know what values I'm looking for. I will check the manual but chances are it will be so extensive I wont understand it.  Your thoughts?

No it points to your reel decoder board, your reel reader cards, and associated wiring working fine.

[GOS]

to hopefully ease your confusion - if you remove the P1 (game eprom) - power up your game - you will get 654321 - press the hopper test button 5 times- the win meter will show a 1 and a number - that number is the address of the reel - if you move the left reel one position at a time the number will increment by 1 - if you have 22 stop you will get 1 thru 22 (25 stop 1 thru 25) - if a number does not increment - then you have a reader problem ( i can go into more detail on how that number relates to the reader position in error later) - if the  left reel goes thru all the numbers correctly - press the coin trip switch wire up/down quickly and the meter will show a 2 - now do the same for reel 2 - then reel 3.  if all the numbers increment properly - your readers are working.

[mwade109]

Thanks, I didn't go ahead and pull the chip and everything but I did it again the way badbaud said and each segment of the reel is recognized, there are 12 symbols on each real, and I marked down the value for each symbol and all of the values on each real match the symbol. I don't think it is having a problem with those sensors.

[mwade109]

Well, I got the Bally back up on the bench yesterday to hopefully figure out what's wrong.  It was doing the same thing yesterday that it has in the past, after inserting 1-3 coins, pull the handle, reels spin but they never stop, the relays are not getting a signal to stop them. I had switching numbers in the first segments of the  led display, 41 then 1, as soon as I pull the handle I get a flashing TILT.

Today I go out there and there is simply a 50 .006 in the display, will not play at all.
Help!

[mwade109]

Can anyone tell me about the blue relay behind the hopper? About every 20 seconds it make s  a noise that sounds like a relay trying to engage but cant fully do it. Kinda a buzzzzz....