Author Topic: Bally 1034-471 schematic wanted (Read 10480 times)

bally bob · « **on:** January 09, 2015, 04:01:18 PM »

Recently bought 3 Bally's. Got them all up and running, but the 1034-471 is more picky. Had a number of problems which I fixed, got it running now suddenly it quit paying out and taking coins. It's a 3 - quarter machine, fruit reels with 3 bars paying 100 coins. It has 3 relays in plastic housings in the top section, not sure what they do. I think IGT in Reno rewired the machine since they have a serial number plate on the side above the bally tag? The manuals I have only give me partial wiring layouts. Tired of tracking wires, does anyone have a schematic for this machine I could purchase or get a copy of? The beau plugs on these machines seem very, very touchy, making contact one minute and not the next. Can you ever get all the bugs worked out of these machines or are they a continual headache at this stage in there lives?

Thanks.

OldReno · « **Reply #1 on:** January 09, 2015, 07:01:32 PM »

Does it play when you push down on the coin switch with your finger? does that release the handle?
If not you might check your 50V fuse for giggles...?

bally bob · « **Reply #2 on:** January 09, 2015, 10:15:04 PM »

No such luck just being the fuse. Hoping to find a full schematic of the machine with wire codes instead parts of schematics for other machines. Save some time that way. I have recently gone through the entire reel mech and hopper switches and relays. They have all been cleaned and are working properly along with all the mechanics on both units. I'm sure the problem is a connection on one of the beau plugs that suddenly decided to quit making contact. I recently bought a set of beau plugs, haven't got them yet. Once I have them I should be able to solve the problem quickly. The electronics of these machines are simplistic, the biggest challenge seems to be working on it within the box and attempting to trace wires in the harness. I'm now retired was formerly a broadcast radio and TV engineer. Have worked on hundreds of pinball and arcade machines over the years. Just recently started on these slots.

OldReno · « **Reply #3 on:** January 09, 2015, 10:33:45 PM »

Hi Bob,
Starting at page 14 of your Bally manual, there are 8 good pages of schematics explaining how the machines work. You can download it from this site if you have not already. Most wire colors are left blank, but you can simply look at the wire to specific coils and then follow along on schematic. Most all of the machines are very very similar, but wire colors do change.
If you can find a schematic for your model that's good, but you can work on it without.
Also, you can sometime put a tiny little tweak on the male pins for you Beau plugs to get better contact. Also, gently push on the female pins to make sure they are not loose in the sockets. If so, either repair or move to an unused pin.
Gentle gentle gentle with reseating the mechanisms, keymen used to slam the hoppers back in, and I would give the 'the Eye...'
Sounds like your doing fine with the machine. Read the how-to's here and on the old board to for more info on these great slot machines.
Until you find your schematic, you can check your coils and lights with jumpers, and there's a post somewhere on this E/M board about that.
Do you have any 50V coils working on the machine? E.G. coin lockout, or your coin relay? Does coin accepted light come on when you push down on coin switch? Lots of folks here who can help diagnose your problems....

The Fatman · « **Reply #4 on:** January 10, 2015, 06:38:07 AM »

I agree with oldreno and would also look at the molex connectors by the door hinge. Most likely it will be the beau plugs but when I dont check those plugs, seems like more often the loose connection is there and I have wasted alot of time because I skipped over them.

Dave

bally bob · « **Reply #5 on:** January 10, 2015, 08:11:52 AM »

Thanks for the tips, I've got my grand kids here this weekend so won't get to work on it until sometime next week. I'm familiar with how to jumper the relays and have started mapping out the wire connections on the beau plugs as I go. Don't suppose their are diagrams of the beau plug wiring anywhere that I can get my hands on? Or would that make it to simple. For fun I did jumper ac through the beau plug into the payout relay and ran the hopper. I changed out the pin wheel and agitator from another hopper I had here, the one on the unit was labeled as obsolete. The motor and gear assembly appear to be a sealed units similar to the ones in old bowling machines. Sounded noisy, but than I don't know what they should sound like. Is there anyway to lube the motor and gears besides drilling out the rivets or am I better off just leaving it alone?

Amechanic · « **Reply #6 on:** January 10, 2015, 08:13:55 AM »

The beau plugs in these machines can be a pain.. I have used the trick for a few years now. I spray the female plugs with the original WD-40 first. I have saved old worn out emery boards from filing nails. I trim one end down to fit inside the female socket. I then spray the cut down section of emery board with the same WD40 and slide it in and out of each opening one the plug 2-3 times. Once I've done them all I do the same to the male side plug. Next I spray both plugs with a contact cleaner. Most times I just let them air dry, but if your in a hurry you can use compressed air. I'm not actually sanding the contacts but burnishing them. NEVER sand or file any contacts. I do have a small flat burnishing tool for them, but its just a little too wide to fit into the female beau plugs..

Gary

bally bob · « **Reply #7 on:** January 10, 2015, 08:22:18 AM »

I have a tool for cleaning the relay contacts same as I use on my pinballs. Next week I'm getting a complete set of beau plugs so I can make extensions and hopefully that will help me. There was a reference to the Bally Manual where do I go to download it? I couldn't seem to find it anywhere on the site. Not sure if it is information I already have or not, but would like to look at it. Thanks.

bally bob · « **Reply #8 on:** January 10, 2015, 09:14:55 AM »

Looked around the site a little more and came across a posting with the link for the Bally Manual. But when I tried to access the link it said I wasn't a registered member. If I'm not registered, how am I able to post and have a log in name?

OldReno · « **Reply #9 on:** January 10, 2015, 09:29:36 AM »

You should be able to download the Bally Manual from here: http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=1535
Let me know if it doesn't work...

rjpohl · « **Reply #10 on:** January 10, 2015, 09:33:51 AM »

i think you have to be a "contributing member" to access downloads. go to bottom of page for instructions on how to donate.
thanks
Bob

OldReno · « **Reply #11 on:** January 10, 2015, 09:40:55 AM »

Bally Bob, my first link was incorrect, shown as a dot net rather than a dot com location. (Have edited it and corrected) Try the link in my last post (above) and it should take you there. Let me know if it don't work.

OldReno · « **Reply #12 on:** January 10, 2015, 09:46:13 AM »

BallyBob,
You can drill out the rivets on your motor transmission, and then pack it with some grease (not too much) and either tap out and put in screws/bolts, or put in smaller sized screw/bolts and nuts. The later versions of the transmission had tapped screws just so that you could pm and grease the thing easily. The aluminum is real easy to tap if you are so inclined.

bally bob · « **Reply #13 on:** January 11, 2015, 02:42:32 PM »

In separating the gear case sides. Is there a gasket, are they glued together? How easily do they come a part once the rivets are drilled out? And do a bunch springs and bushings come flying out? If I have a spare motor here I would give it a try, but since I only have the one in the machine I want to be cautious.

Amechanic · « **Reply #14 on:** January 11, 2015, 03:50:51 PM »

I had one apart yrs back and I don't remember a gasket. As for inside its just gear reduction setup. There might be a shim on a shaft end, but that's about it.

OldReno · « **Reply #15 on:** January 11, 2015, 06:33:19 PM »

Nothing is going to jump out at you, and no springs are going to go flying.
Just some gears and grease, and as Amechanic says, there is a shim.
I don't think I've ever seen one of these things wear out, but it is a good idea to grease them once in awhile.
It might be possible to put a Zerk fitting in for grease, but it's just as easy to disassemble every decade or so to relube it.
Ha.
In a prior post I mentioned aluminum, but I believe it is a zinc 'pot metal' kind of material. Very soft and easy to work.

Amechanic · « **Reply #16 on:** January 11, 2015, 06:48:31 PM »

I have often wondered why they didn't even put a small oil hole on the top of the gear box. Just a couple drops of oil would help keep the grease soft?

bally bob · « **Reply #17 on:** January 11, 2015, 08:32:21 PM »

This is probably a really stupid question, but I'm gonna ask anyway. Originally I posted looking for a schematic for a 1034-431. I'm now finding out the 1034 schematic is for a Lucky Sevens, which is a 6 quarter machine. Mine is a 3 quarter, buy a pay machine and looks identical (see picture posted) to the 1088 dollar slot and functions the same as mine, with the buy a pay. So I'm beginning to think I would be better off with the 1088 schematic and it would be closer to mine. The -431 means that it was a variation of the original 1034? Would it be conceivable that the variation progressed to such a point that it more closely resembled the next model the 1088? I have 3 relays in the top unit encased in plastic and I want to know what and how they work in the circuitry. I do not believe the Lucky Sevens has these same 3 relays encased in plastic in the top unit and the 1088 slot does. I'm not sure if anyone could follow all of that. But basically I think my 1034-431 more closely works like the 1088 rather than a 1034 Lucky Sevens. Can someone give me some input on this? Thanks.

The Fatman · « **Reply #18 on:** January 12, 2015, 06:35:08 AM »

I have an original Lucky 7's machine and will take a look for you later today. If I can, I will take a few pics just to let you know. If yours is only a 3 coin play machine, he top header will be shorter than the Lucky 7's and will have less lamps on the front.
Dave F

bally bob · « **Reply #19 on:** January 28, 2015, 05:41:26 PM »

Just for the record finally got a chance to work on my 1034-471 machine today. Wouldn't take coins or couldn't manually trip the coin drop switch. Used the generic schematics in the Bally manual. Followed the 50 volt feed from the coin switch, through the reel mech A1, C1, coin relay and dashpot switches. Used clip leads from my volt ohm meter to check for voltage at various points and continuity, cleaned and adjusted the switches. Put the mech back in and it worked perfect. Not sure if I corrected the problem or if a beau plug contact decided to start working again. Anyway it is up and running again. Gonna order a couple of new male beau plugs for the reel mech since the pins on mine are wobbly, a few broken off and had to move the wires. I keep track of everything I do in a spiral notebook for future reference if needed.

News:

NLG Site Navigation Menu

Author Topic: Bally 1034-471 schematic wanted (Read 10480 times)