Bally E-2099-17 Lights on but nobodies home

[darwinasm86]

First time poster here, I have a couple of questions about my new slot machine.
 
I purchased it a couple of days ago for my dad as a gift, and the lights come on but the fun ends there. The owner said it use to work but cant remember when it stopped or why.


Observations so far.


1. Power Supply +5V at the test points on the PSU PCB, Didn't check ZC or UR yet
2. +5V from the 7805s on the MPU are good to go, measuring 4.98 VDC at the test point
3. I removed the Lithium 3.6V battery from the RAM PCB... it was leaking...
4. Coin Mech seems doesnt accept coins... goes straight to the reject path, not matter the adjustment but looks like this CJ's Slot connection that this was originally purchased from in the mid nineties made a replacement piece for the accept or reject slide adustment... maybe thats it.
5. There is a momentary switch in the path after accepting coins which trips when a coin travels by, tested that with my meter and switch is good, didnt test with power
6. test and reset switch located by the hopper Fuse dont seem to have any affect.
7. SHould have been number one, but I checked the input AC for shorts, and fuses before first power on.


Questions:


1. When I turn on the unit should I hear any sounds other than relays, the high voltage from the starters... game noises?
2. I keep seeing hints of test modes, is there a self or BIT test I can run on this?
3. there is a set of grey wires with female slide terminals that has been shorted together on the bottom left of the machine using a metal shunt, is that supposed to be the "cherry" switch.
4. I havent checked the EEPROMs yet, but I have seen multiple configurations of MPUs with some populated and others not, are there also different check sums for these reference designators or if anyone has them they will always be the same, i'd imagine not, but fingers crossed. I would like to read and compare and make sure that nothing has gone wonky.
5. Anything else I could look for to narrow down the search?


Any help is much appreciated


Thx,


Jason

[darwinasm86]

Added Some Pictures.


Also someone clipped C31 from the I/O PCB, any know what this MOD is for?


I Removed U1 and U2 7805 Regulators from the PCB.


Enjoy

[Amechanic]

Hello.. Welcome to NLG.  Looks like you have a Bally E1000 Series machine. That Ram board that the battery was on can be some of your problem. The connection between it and the MPU tend to fail due to battery acid. The female Ram board connectors turn green and fall apart. You could also try to reseat the two ram chips on that board, 5101 I think is there numbers.

Does your machine show any numbers in the front door win meter when you power it on? Those are machine codes.. Those machines do tend to have fuse holder problems. The aluminum used inside breaks. Another thing to check is the condition of your ribbon cable between the I/O and MPU..

As for the two gray wires, take a picture for us, but it sounds like your missing a kick or arm switch??

As for the clipped C31, I've seen that before, it shouldn't be a problem.

You might want to post a pic of your coin acceptor while your at it. Could be a coin comparitor.. If it is you need to put a coin is the slide on the comparitor before it will accept coins

[darwinasm86]

Thank you for responding .


I'll send pictures later this evening when I have a chance, and for the front, where it says game wins it says 1


When I first turned it on it said 0


I don't think I've played around with it and gotten it to say 0 again, but for now just 1.


Thank you again,


Jason

[Paul]

Since you have a E2000 series machine you
might be better off to replace that E1000 board
with a tested E2000 MPU and i/o board.

[darwinasm86]

Thank you Proten,


     Do you know what the differences are between the two boards? Do you know if any schematics exist for the board I have? Where would I get an E2000 Series MPU board?


Jason

[Amechanic]

Your machine could be an early version of the 2000 series that still ran the E1000 MPU. It a common thing. There should be stickers on your boards that match your machine.

[darwinasm86]

Thanks AMechanic,


    I will take some pictures of the boards etc this evening and share them with the forum. Ill clean and test for continuity on the RAM PCB as well, and if that fails Ill scope the clock and the Address lines to see if there is any activity on the board.


    Is there a specific momentary switch that adds credits to play without playing? I'd like to scope that and see how that circuit is functioning.


thanks again,


Jason

[Paul]

  The difference between the boards is that there is no ram board on the 2000 series.

Both boards are interchangeable and the E2000 are more reliable than the E1000 boards.

[dhellis]

I am a little surprised that no one has mentioned that the eprom for M3 is missing. My guess is
that it is sitting in the M4 socket or just missing all together.

The code 0 (bbbbb0  where b= blank)) is not a valid code but may appear if the clock is not operating.
A bbbbb1 code would be a Ram failure code which very well may be caused by a leaky battery that has
eaten away or corroded  the contacts on the ram board.

I would expect that with eprom #3 (M3) missing you would have a bbbbb4 error code, since the machine
never gets past the ram check error, that would be a good place to start.

The eproms have different checksums, but 99% of them end with 00, the chip in M7 is the game chip
and 99% of those checksums end in 56.

C31 on the IO board is attached from one side of R31A to ground and is part of the circuit that illuminates the
reel reader lamps. I would re-attach it and if you are having problems with the reel readers turning on, look
at that portion of the circuit and find out why.

Was there a reason that you removed the 2 regulators from the IO board? If not there even with all other aspects
of the machine being 100% your would get a 500000 error because the MPU can not communicate with the IO board.

[darwinasm86]

Thank You Dhellis and everyone  that has responded so far.


Tonights results:


1. See picture below of 7805s from the IO PCB.
   a. Part of the case on the TO-220 case was broken off and the leads of the second one were discolored from heat, so I wanted to change them anyways
   b. I test them on the bench and they were both working, but I put new ones in any ways
2. I reseated the ICs on the RAM PCB, and cleaned and reflowed the contacts.
3. I cleaned the header pins on the MPU PCB as well.
4. Put it all back together and turned the unit on.
5. The LCD now reads 0
6. I tried to close the door to the machine and lock it and maybe it was coincidence, dont know but I blew a fuse!

[darwinasm86]

Oops not finished yet, darn laptop!


Bottom Right fuse 250V 5A, also tripped my GFCI in my garage.


So that was fun.


I also moved the EEPROM back to M3 from M4, yes Dhellis you were right


Also here are some pictures of the Coin mech, and as you can see the adjustment at the bottom looks like it was a Kludge job.


Any other thoughts on what might have blown the fuse and if 0 means were good ... but somehow I doubt it..


Hmm now that I think about it those gray wires were in the way when I closed the door... sigh,.. that probably did it...


Thanks,


Jason

[darwinasm86]

I read over the post again, code "0" is not valid and could mean that the clock is not running.


I will take a look again when I replace the fuse and get the machine up for another round tomorrow evening.


If I hadn't shorted it, is there a bootup time when you first turn the machine on, or should I get game sounds right away?


Thanks


Jason

[darwinasm86]

Does anyone have the procedure for how to run tests on the machine... I keep seeing references to running test 1, test 5...etc?


Thanks


Jason

[darwinasm86]

Just for fun added a quick and dirty test for my 7805 I did last night.. well here is a picture

[Amechanic]

Does anyone have the procedure for how to run tests on the machine... I keep seeing references to running test 1, test 5...etc?
Thanks
Jason

When we talk about running test on the machine, that's done using the test button on the hopper board.. I have attached two pdf manuals that might help

[darwinasm86]

Ohhh Thank you!!!!


Going to start going through them now!!!


I replaced the fuse and Im up and running again, lights are on, and the display has a single 0 in the number 6 position.


Looks like the 1 error code is gone now, or the machine is just more dead


Thank you,


Jason

[darwinasm86]

Looks Like the MPU board is not running.


Clock is running, I attached a picture of the Crystal


Crystal, 4MHz, CPU CLK is 1MHz


The Address and Data lines are hovering at about 200mV, sooo... looks like I need to dig into this more.


Are there any known high failure components? I ran through the board quickly with my Huntron and didn't see any obvious failures.


Does anyone have the FO-650-1 Document for the AS2978-3?


Thank you


Jason

[dhellis]

I have that manual (not in PDF though) but not sure how much good it would do you. The manual is written assuming that
you have the Bally K661 tester. When the boards are being tested all eproms, ram boards and even the
CPU chip are removed from the board. Connecting to the Simulator portion of the tester a constant known
set of signals are sent to the board. The signals are then traced with the Signal Monitor which will show
different codes.

The one benefit that having the manual does provide is knowing the test points and which parts control
each segment of operation.

One word of advice that I would give you is to resolder the connections underneath the bipolar proms
(21, U25 and U29) also the connections on U7 and U8. These chips consume a bit of current so will generate
heat.

Oh and another tip, C3 located next to the small relay can give you strange error codes. The capacitor is 33 mfd @50
volts and is part of the reset circuit. As a quick test you can jumper that relay and see if the 0 code goes away
or changes. If it does then C3, the relay U5 or even the 555 (U18) but thus far I have never found a bad 555
anywhere except on IO boards.

[darwinasm86]

Looks like that relay is no more. I removed it and tested it and its a dead stick.
 
Also I removed all of the electrolytics this morning and tested them, they are all still good.


I attached a screen shot of the Output of U5 (Pin 11, 4Y )


Ill have to jumper it tonight and test it now that I found that bad part.




Side note Question, what is the output of J3? Is it BCD?


Thank,


Jason