I just want to say thank you one more time to the community for all the help, great bunch of people
It was nice that I brought this Machine home exactly one week ago today, and it's already up and running.
Out of all that I wanted to do a revised summary in case anyone else wants to learn from this past week.
Final Summary:
Symptom: Lights were on when I plugged in the machine, but it wouldn't take money, and aside from the sound of the high voltage starters, there was nothing but crickets.
Bad Components:
1. RLY 1 on the MPU board went bad, which controls the reset to the processor, which means the Main Processor Unit was not alive.
a. Quick Fix to test - Jumper the open contacts of the relay between U5 Pin 11, and U28 Pin 16.
2. The 3.6V Batt for the memory was leaking so I removed and ordered a new one. Yes the machine runs without the battery in case you were wondering.
Continued Testing.
1. Once the RLY was replaced the machine boot up and seemed ready to play.
2. The machine accepted coins and the Pull Handle mechanism wasn't working.
a. After tracing the wiring harneess to the IO board, and a few conversations with the community, I found that the
previous person that tried to repair the machine connected the Solenoid to the Handle release mechanism to the wrong connector.
b. The Solenoid for the handle release circuit goes to the IO Board, Q16, which is J1 Pin10.
3. I also removed the IO Board, The MPU Board, and the RAM Board from the Machine, and connected them one at a time to my Huntron Tracker 2000.
a. I quickly went through the boards looking for shorts, and didn't find anything out of the ordinary.
b. I removed all of the electrolytics, and measured them with my LCR Meter. I tested them with my Huntron first, but second test never hurts
c. After that I cleaned and reflowed the connectors, and especially the headers pins from the MPU to the RAM PCB.
d. I also removed and reseated all of the socketed ICs.
4. I reassembled everything and the machine seamed to be working fine.
a. Then I hit a payout on the reels and blew the hopper fuse.
b. This problem is still bugging me.
c. The usual suspect for the E1000 Series Hopper PCB are the TRIACS Q1, and Q2.
d. I removed them and tested them and they seemed fine, however I replaced them any ways.
e. I checked the rest of the board, its a small circuit and still I was blowing fuses when I hit a payout.
f. I tested the motor by applying 110 directly to the two terminals to see if it would spin,
Please do not try this if you dont know what you are doing! g. The motor was fine, and then I removed the relay board located directly behind the hopper.
h. I tested and cleaned the relay and hopper board, reassembled and it's alive!!!!
It took a week between gaining proficiency with this awesome electro-mechanical device, but with the help of the community, and some schematics, I was able to get this done quickly.
Thanks again everyone, I look forward to my next slot machine repair.
Anyone know if there is a similar model to this one that has as I would call it Vegas Sounds? Sounds when the reels spins and a cool payout noise. The noise for the current machine sounds like you are getting electrocuted
Jason