Author Topic: E2000 help needed (Read 4456 times)

Nepa Coin Op · « **on:** December 30, 2015, 11:21:42 AM »

I picked up an E2000 that has some life but not working....guy I got it from said his kid was playing it and pulled the handle and it stuck down and that was it.......I know very little about these my background is in video and pinball repair... I went as far as I can, reseatted the socketed chips and cleaned all pugs, hopper, reel assembly ect as well as cleaned and lubed the handle release solenoid and reel mechs which were all gummed up... when I turn it on the display on the door reads 50 000 always.... if I close the door and add a coin, payline 1 and or 1-2 start blinking... I can pull the handle but the reels never stop... seems the machine is not in game play mode....if I go into self test all lights bells and solenoids fire as they seem they should, but when either closing the door or manually pressing the door switch it never leaves test mode leading me to believe the door switch is bad......along with when i turn the machine on the door relay trips on power up but no change with door switch activation , i dont know if this is normal or not.....Of all the wires on the door switch which do I need to jump to make the machine think the door is closed ?? or to test with an ohm meter ??

Thanks

dhellis · « **Reply #1 on:** December 30, 2015, 12:27:58 PM »

On the door switches, there is one on the right hand side and the other is behind one of the door hinges, I think
it is behind the upper hinge.

You mentioned getting a 50 000 code, which is door open, however this code will remain until the door
is closed and a coin in inserted.

Test #2 is the only test that I am aware of that the only way to end it is to hit the test button. It will
stop if the power is turned off, obviously, but continue to run as soon as the machine is turned back on.

If the reels never stop, run test #5 and then turn each reel to see if the numbers in the display
change. If they do not change then you may have a defective reel reader decoder board (mounted
behind the front portion of the reel bundle) or a defective IO board. I guess it is also possible, though
unlikely, that all of the reel readers are bad.
Some of these E2000 machines used the old style 50 volt reel readers that had visible light, the newer
readers used infrared emitters but power for both were turned on by Q32 on the IO board. You can also
test U8 on the IO board as this is the buffer chip for the reel readers.

Amechanic · « **Reply #2 on:** December 30, 2015, 02:59:06 PM »

The cabinets door hinge switch is located behind the lower doors hinge. There are two screws holding it in place. Make sure they are tight and that the switch is pushed forward when tightened. You also might have a second switch located in the door right below the locks cam.

Nepa Coin Op · « **Reply #3 on:** December 30, 2015, 06:46:48 PM »

It looks like the door switch is causing the probs.....the switch is doing what its supposed to as far as its NO NC positions .....what boards does that feed to ?? it seems the boards not seeing when the switch is closed like a logic gate is stuck..

dhellis · « **Reply #4 on:** December 30, 2015, 06:59:25 PM »

Looks to me like it is connected to Q15 or Q8 of the IO board

Q15 is attached to the door open switch, Q8 is attached to door open relay and door
open lamp.

Amechanic · « **Reply #5 on:** December 30, 2015, 07:36:02 PM »

Question.. Does your machine have the cherry switch under the door lock cam? I have seen them wired in series with the door hinge switch. If the lock cherry switch was not working then it looked like the hinge switch was not working. I try to eliminate the lock switch by tying the wires together. Not saying that's your problem, just what I have run into. Dan (dehellis) knows the boards.

One other big problems with these machine are the connections on the power supply, MPU, IO, and reel readers. Being tin plated crimp connectors and pin headers the tarnish, and the spring loaded crimp connectors loose there tension after being taken apart a few times.

Nepa Coin Op · « **Reply #6 on:** December 30, 2015, 07:39:52 PM »

they test good.... I guess next would be U5,,, whata think ?

Nepa Coin Op · « **Reply #7 on:** December 30, 2015, 07:59:52 PM »

Quote from: Amechanic on December 30, 2015, 07:36:02 PM

Question.. Does your machine have the cherry switch under the door lock cam? I have seen them wired in series with the door hinge switch. If the lock cherry switch was not working then it looked like the hinge switch was not working. I try to eliminate the lock switch by tying the wires together. Not saying that's your problem, just what I have run into. Dan (dehellis) knows the boards.

One other big problems with these machine are the connections on the power supply, MPU, IO, and reel readers. Being tin plated crimp connectors and pin headers the tarnish, and the spring loaded crimp connectors loose there tension after being taken apart a few times.

not sure what you mean by cherry switch but the only switch I can see anywhere around the door in the one in the hinge.. The sw on this hinge has 2 contacts 1 set NO and 1 set NC ...I can jump 1 set and open the other simulating a closed door ....Yes these do have very sad connectors I am familiar with these from the Bally Pins... That and tons of cold joints.... I did clean the headers and reflow all with same condition present..... I am going to eliminate the door switch but before that I have track that line back and through the I/O to the U5 7417 ... Im gonna check that line with a logic probe next and eliminate that IC ... aftet that if all that checks out I am at a brick wall for sure

dhellis · « **Reply #8 on:** December 30, 2015, 08:11:25 PM »

Quote from: mike111 on December 30, 2015, 07:39:52 PM

they test good.... I guess next would be U5,,, whata think ?

U5? of the IO board?

At this point I think I would be running test #3. Test 3 will test the inputs so if depressing the
coin switch, the codes, would change, depressing the door switches would also show changes.
You have ran all of the output tests when you ran test #2 so might as well check and make sure
that all of the inputs are correct as well. I have seen corrosion on the pins of the IO board so clean
all of those with a stiff wire brush. Then check continuity between pin 8 of J1 to Q8 and pin 9 of J1
to Q15 to make sure that there isn't an open circuit.

U5 controls Q13,14,15,16, 17 and 18, I have seen my share of defective 74174's but most of them
have displayed more than one single problem when they have gone bad.

Nepa Coin Op · « **Reply #9 on:** December 30, 2015, 08:32:46 PM »

Quote from: dhellis on December 30, 2015, 08:11:25 PM

Quote from: mike111 on December 30, 2015, 07:39:52 PM
they test good.... I guess next would be U5,,, whata think ?

U5? of the IO board?

At this point I think I would be running test #3. Test 3 will test the inputs so if depressing the
coin switch, the codes, would change, depressing the door switches would also show changes.
You have ran all of the output tests when you ran test #2 so might as well check and make sure
that all of the inputs are correct as well. I have seen corrosion on the pins of the IO board so clean
all of those with a stiff wire brush. Then check continuity between pin 8 of J1 to Q8 and pin 9 of J1
to Q15 to make sure that there isn't an open circuit.

U5 controls Q13,14,15,16, 17 and 18, I have seen my share of defective 74174's but most of them
have displayed more than one single problem when they have gone bad.

Well I also just found the board in the bottom with the NVRAM on it has no voltage at the test points as well ... upper MPU and IO are ok but board in bottom are dead NO leds on nothing and no voltages at the TPs

Nepa Coin Op · « **Reply #10 on:** December 30, 2015, 08:59:21 PM »

8 goes to 14 and 9 to 15 on this one both are ok ....MPU shows no response from door sw in test mode others are all ok

Nepa Coin Op · « **Reply #11 on:** December 30, 2015, 09:15:14 PM »

There's a little board straight in above the door relays that has no power ..... That board has 2 coin switch wires running through it ..... It's powers fed from a bus in the the back and a plug which is just there and I don't see a place for it to go please see pics

Nepa Coin Op · « **Reply #12 on:** December 30, 2015, 09:16:52 PM »

Here's the plug .... No boards in the bottom have power ..

Amechanic · « **Reply #13 on:** December 30, 2015, 10:50:29 PM »

My personal opinion is that what your looking at could be old equipment used by a casino or where ever the machine was last in use before being retire to public use. I did recognize any board that looked factory. Can you give a view (pic) of these boards from a little farther back to see inside your machine.. You should only have your MPU to the left of the reels. The IO is right behind the reels. Then the power supply is behind the hopper on the back wall with the fuses. Other then maybe a sound board found in some models, reel readers and the control board is all the boards in a E Series machine. All the extra stuff was installed for security, or book keeping, etc. I usually try to remove the garbage when possible.

Nepa Coin Op · « **Reply #14 on:** December 30, 2015, 11:13:45 PM »

Quote from: Amechanic on December 30, 2015, 10:50:29 PM

My personal opinion is that what your looking at could be old equipment used by a casino or where ever the machine was last in use before being retire to public use. I did recognize any board that looked factory. Can you give a view (pic) of these boards from a little farther back to see inside your machine.. You should only have your MPU to the left of the reels. The IO is right behind the reels. Then the power supply is behind the hopper on the back wall with the fuses. Other then maybe a sound board found in some models, reel readers and the control board is all the boards in a E Series machine. All the extra stuff was installed for security, or book keeping, etc. I usually try to remove the garbage when possible.

Yes I found they are for progressive jackpot linking ..... This had the door sw wired into all that and hacked into the harnesses....... I'm gonna rip all that shit out ..... What pin on the I/O is the door sw exactly

For normal operation is that pin grounded or not ?? I really don't care if it plays with the door open ... As long as it plays ..... I can always switch that line or put it as it should be so test mode works correctly .... Were 1 wire and 1 conn away from this working if the ic controlling that is good

Nepa Coin Op · « **Reply #15 on:** December 30, 2015, 11:22:02 PM »

Also have this tied into the hopper too which I'm guessing is progressive junk too

Amechanic · « **Reply #16 on:** December 31, 2015, 01:02:55 AM »

Your IO board has had something burn up. I would take it out and check the traces on the back. Looks like a coin got behind it. That happens when poeple move then with money in the hopper.

Nepa Coin Op · « **Reply #17 on:** December 31, 2015, 02:17:26 AM »

thats a shadow your seeing.

Nepa Coin Op · « **Reply #18 on:** December 31, 2015, 02:24:16 AM »

Its bare bones now, all the prog add ons are out..... now I should be able to just the door sw to the board like original...... I cant find the right schematics for this the e2000s are close but cant find good door sw wire color info and where from the board... according to what I have it shows GRAY 90 ground feeding the door switches and coming back to the board at J3P3 White...Looks to be a NO circuit.... with J3P3 out of the plug theres no change, grounded it trips the door relay but still same issue... Im leaning toward an IC, you have more EXP with these than me. theres not much left in that circuit unless theres something I dont know about or am not seeing

Nepa Coin Op · « **Reply #19 on:** December 31, 2015, 10:33:33 AM »

Well I am pretty sure this machine wasnt played like the owner said it was and if so it was played in test mode 8...... I did find this used to have a cam switch that someone took out and tucked the wires in the harness....it now functions as it should as far as the door switch goes.... but now I have reel reader probs ....... Instantly tilts or if I get it to coin they keep spinning... test 5 reads out 14444. if I release the reels and spin them nothing changes .. I will idag this down to a component level and repair the board if someone can point me in the right dir that knows more about how these work than I do ... I will also start a thread for this as well
Thanks

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Author Topic: E2000 help needed (Read 4456 times)