Where do I start?

[DavidLee]

Sending another attachment, seems the other one that came over 3 times is cut off near the top left.
That is we're the coin switch is on the drawing. I know these things are a little hard to follow, but you have the color code and the numbers are in the boxes attached to the wire.
Have you taken the time to clean and inspect the contacts and wiring? Sometimes this will solve problems.
Look for loose wires at the solder joints and or wire lugs bent and touching. Manually activate the contact switches to see if the contacts are opening and closing. Also missing springs on coil armatures will prevent them from returning to the proper position.

[DavidLee]

 Appears the schematic is hard to read on the iPad. Hopefully it's ok on your screen. If not let me know.
The Casino is now closed.

[OldReno]

Often when you put the reel mech back in, the dashpot switch (which looked closed when it was out) will actually open because of the 2 1/2 gears on the side as they slide into the handle fork.
To check this, open door, pull toward you on the (dashpot) pump arm, and listen for the coin lockout coil to click on.
You can also pull on dashpot arm while you click the coin in switch with your finger.
You can even (if your ears are good) push back on the handle with door closed and often get the lockout coil to click, if it is not working. Pushing back on handle is the same as pulling forward on the pump arm.
A tip I learned working casinos, how to check lockout with door closed.
On a good working machine, you can actually with door closed very slightly move the handle forward and hear the lockout disengage, and then engage when you release the handle and let it fall back into its normal at rest position.

Regarding schematics -- generally a wire color stays the same UNTIL it goes into a switch stack.  Then it comes out as another color AFTER going through the switch.
Wire colors do not just change arbitrarily, there is some method to color change.  E.G. it should not change color in a beau plug or other plug, otherwise there would be chaos and the Universe would end due to heat death....

Also, when tracing a 50V circuit, anytime you can come from the 70 wire of a coil, and get all the way back to the 30 wire (common wire), then you have a complete circuit and your coil should be activated. If a switch is open (series) along that path, you got no coil working.  However if a switch is open in a parallel circuit, you still should have coil working.   Hope that helps in tracing.
Just fyi, all 50V coils eventually end up back at the 30 wire (yellow).  It is the common wire...it is the other end of the circuit.

And, on the flip side, any time you can come from the 20 wire (blue) of the 6V circuit and get through all the required switches back to the 30 wire (once again it is the common wire), then you should have that light lit.

[OldReno]

One afterthought to the above.  You will note that MOST of the circuits in the pay and the 50V pass through the coin in switch.  That coin in switch does a lot of stuff.  It is indispensable, and if you follow out both the coin in upstroke (normal position as shown in schematic), and the coin in downstroke (when it is pushed down to go to the odds reset circuit and the coin relay coil) you will understand a lot of how the machine works.

[ucanwin]

I tried to do as you said.....opened the door with the mechanism in the machine. I pulled the dashpot pump arm and the coin lockout does not function. If I power the coil direct, it works, so I know that the coil is good, it just doesn't work when it is supposed to. The handle release also does not function when it should but powering it directly, it does engage.
Following the wires has been a nightmare for me. When I get to the contacts, I am not sure if they should be open or closed, and this thing is driving me nuts. I get lost in space trying to follow the circuits. It seems like when I get to one point, things seem to go in multiple directions and before you know it, I don't know where I am trying to go anymore. I have tried working back from the handle release coil and also starting at the coin lockout coil and going the other way, but again before you know it, I am lost. I can't get either to work. I am about ready to give up. It's kind of like banging my head against the wall...it's starting to feel good, ha!
No............actually, it's getting real depressing.

[DavidLee]

Re: the coin switch, it works once  on the Coin In side as it makes a circuit. It may have some sort of debris inside  and the Normally Closed side isn't working, just a thought. As suggested in previous post sometimes a good swift karate chop with the handle side of a screwdriver might help. One of my machine will just stop taking coins durning continuous use. I've had to preform this procedure a few times and it takes the next coin like nothing happen at all.
  Also the beau plug after yeas of use doesn't make good contact. Try this, a little hopper movement in, out, left and right while the machine is on. Try your coin switch in each position you move the hopper. You might notice the lights going off and on. A sign of wear.
I'll have to post a photo of my beau plug pliers I use on worn beau plug pins.
The above suggestions are easy to do and sometimes eliminate hours of head scratching. But if this doesn't help, well it's time to get in a little deeper. Keep us posted its always a good learning experience. Also wanted to add this movement technique works well on the reel mechanism as well.

[hunter2280]

I picked up a 1088 this weekend and it was doing the same thing. My problem was in the plug on the back of the hopper, if i moved the hopper from side to side i would hear a  click and it started working. it would work and then would not . I took the hopper out and cleaned the pins with 400 grit sandpaper. I then very slightly with my finger bent the pins,not to much or they will not go back in the plug. That fixed that problem. 

[DavidLee]

Right on, sometimes that's all it takes. Like I said it saves from a lot of head scratching.

[OldReno]

Dear ucanwin,
regarding switches, it really does not matter if you know if the switch is supposed to be open or closed.  You have to discover what mechanism it is that operates the switch.
Once you do that, you can work that mechanism while you watch each switch.  Each and every switch should open and close, or close and open, when the operating mechanism does its thing.  You can put a white business card of peice of paper behind the switch stack to help you see.
Also I did a post somewhere on switches you should find and read, but basically when a switch contacts to the other side you  should 'see' it push against its mate.
And when it opens you should see light between the contacts.
Now, about your coin lockout coil not working...do you get handle release?
Does the coin accepted light come on after you push on the coin in switch on the door?
That light going on tells you that your coin relay (left side of reel mech) was tripped.  Only after it trips will you get handle release.

[Jon]

old Reno that is why you are the moderator of this site your words are poetic if I knew a tenth of your knowledge and was able to speak half as nice I would be the moderator but you my friend are amazing

[Ron (r273)]

old Reno that is why you are the moderator of this site your words are poetic if I knew a tenth of your knowledge and was able to speak half as nice I would be the moderator but you my friend are amazing

 

Ron (r273)

[OldReno]

Thanks guys, and that's very nice of you all.
The thing is that I just have had more time working on these things than most of you.
I used to get paid to teach people how to repair them, so as a result I HAD to learn the machines well.
I hope to be able to put together a tutorial or two one of these days on techniques, but my interest is mostly doing solar thermal work and working on my Sol Kitchen which I hope to have ready to hit the road this summer. (Today I'm cooking some root vegetables, and maybe might make some solar Creme Brulee later)
I enjoy being able to help folks with their machines, so that is certainly reward enough for me.
And when I Kack in a couple of years, I hope that someone will go through all the old posts here and on the older website and do a collection of troubleshooting tips.
I've tried to give you all the best of my knowledge, and some of you are smarter than I am and some of you have even better troubleshooting skills than I do.
So I have every confidence that there is a collective enough number of good people here to keep these fine machines running well into the future.
Aw shucks.
I appreciate your good thoughts.
The Bally E/M was a diabolically well designed mechanism, which received countless modifications during its design and manufacture -- mostly to prevent cheating.  So many circuits and parts are retrofits learned along the way by the Bally engineers, and others working in the gaming industry.  They are, in my opinion, almost infinitely rebuildable.  And they teach us a lot of pre-computer stuff.  I love working on them, and still learn new stuff almost every time I do.  That's why they're so fun.

Yours,
Old Reno
(Craig Bergland)

[Jon]

old Reno if you get a chance I would love you probably already done it but I would love a little tutorial on the hopper reset circuit in your words and how to test it a guy and I believe Illinois has one and he's going to post on the page soon and I'm not good enough to explain it for some reason I fix them I just can't explain it