1114-4 EM?

[Herbie21]

We got them! I picked up the two 1114 today and they are in great shape, hardly used very low milage. They are MGM $ converted to tokens for Europe. I found one MGM 1 $ coin in the machine. 1000 tokens came with them.


@ Wolf to get them to 220 was easy, just a plug in other socket, which leaves me with two 220/110 transfomators worth $100. Unfortunately no paperwork came with them


@ Sam, you are right they have a modern feel compared to the more narrow models, I like them!


I will start to make them work will do this in a new post, first the 1114-4

[Herbie21]

@ David I am considering to switch them to normal coins, or is it to much work, where to get these parts? Any idea?

[Simple Sam]

It doesn't look like the belly glass is damaged.


These machines were used with tokens in the US which is probably why you have an MGM token in it.  You really scored getting 1,000 tokens as they are worth about 50 cents each.  Actual US dollars are hard to come by and run about $1.25 each.


That is a heck of a good deal, I'm definitely jealous!


I don't know if it can be established whether that was used in the Reno or Las Vegas casino although the token implies it was from Reno.  The Reno MGM is still there but has changed ownership over the years.  It was built in 1978 and operated as the MGM until 1986 when it became Bally's.  It operated as Bally's until 1992 when it became the Reno Hilton Resort (not the Reno Hilton).  The Reno Hilton Resort operated until 2006 when it became the Grand Sierra Resort (now known as GSR).  It's a very nice property today and has a very large casino, a huge bowling alley in the basement, a movie theatre, a show theatre, a driving range outdoors, etc.  My wife remembers going there for her 21st birthday when they still had the MGM lions (yes, live lions!).

[Simple Sam]

Either would look good next to my 956-17 manufactured in 1978.

[DavidLee]

Shouldn’t be to much of a problem to change the machine to accept US coins.
It’s hard to tell the size of the tokens. Post a picture of the token next to a quarter for comparison.
Possibly all you would have to do is change the coin mechanism.
Also please post photos of the inside including the door.


Nice machines!

[DavidLee]

Have an assortment of mechanisms.
Might be able to help you out.

[wolftalk]

I'd keep at least one of the games on the tokens, assuming they are heavier than a quarter. 


the sound of a cascade of weighty higher value loot dumping into the tray is so much better.

[Simple Sam]

I'd keep at least one of the games on the tokens, assuming they are heavier than a quarter. 


the sound of a cascade of weighty higher value loot dumping into the tray is so much better.

It's the one reason I have for wanting a dollar machine.  I can remember being in casinos and hearing the magical sound of the dollar machines paying out; the thunk, thunk, thunk of those big coins dropping into the coin tray.  Unfortunately, the cost of the coins/tokens is often more than the machine.

[Herbie21]

Hi boys, got the 1114-3 and the 1114-4 at my place, two days a bit of cleaning and they are working nearly perfect. It is always strange to find such weird issues like reel #3 was mounted wrong, I had to turn it one quarter (someone took apart and put together wrong)!


Apart from some bulbs I am fine, great! And I like the gong after the 3rd coin!!!


There is one thing the electonic meter of the 1114-3 is not counting correct, I checked the schematics but can't find a normally open switch on the hopper, maybe it is nomally closed as the hopper of the 1114-4 is ok I changed to the 1114-3 and it worked. The small difference is a small missing piece of plastic (see photo) making the nomally closed switch to open later. Might this be the problem?


Cheers Herbie

[Herbie21]

@ Wolf do you need any photos of these machines for your files? I used the available schematics and the work ok.


For the freaks my payback calculation in excel of the 1114-3, you are right Wolf 94,5%!

[wolftalk]

pics?  Always!  I'll add them with the game info. 


you are missing the switch lifter on the top hopper pulse switch.  Unless someone did a hack so the second switch down in the stack closes, the game wouldn't count the ejected coins and should shut down during payout.  The total out meter and win meter wouldn't work either.


the top switch and second switch are wired in parallel and are redundant.  Counting coins was so important they had two switches doing it for added reliability.


the two redundant switches should both be NO ... they close when a coil lifts the roller as it exits the hopper.  You have an NC switch on the other game?


you can get the lifters from pinball parts suppliers.  If you get a replacement blade with the lifter attached, make sure it has the big tungsten contact.  The lifters come in different lengths, so if not sure get one too long and you can sand it down to needed size.


you could probably take the one off the unused (electrically) right/bottom switch blade and glue it on the top blade.  I think the bottom blade is just limiting how far down the stack can get pushed, but it shouldn't be an issue once the roller height is set for the coin size.

[Herbie21]

Wolf do you think this missing switch lifter would cause the inaccurate counting of the win meter?

[DavidLee]

If the meter is counting up and resetting on the next coin.
Then I would assume the switch in question is not involved.

Not real familiar with those machines, but the count could be linked to the hopper pivot switches.

As for the extra count, play the machine for a while. Note any variation in the over count.
If small payouts seem normal, better than larger payouts.
Might expect it to be contact bounce or prolong closure.

I have a machine that counts perfectly one day and will add a 1 or 2 to the count the next day.

 
Nice machines, would like to see more photos when all cleaned up with lights on.

[wolftalk]

as david said, the count is coming from the hopper pulse/pivot switches.

below is a pic of a 1088's pulse switch stack.  The top two switches with the purple arrows are the redundant pulse switches. 


with the lifter missing, I don't know how either of those two switches would close unless the stack is mounted up too high or there's some other hack.


second image below is the schem that is basically the same on all 1114 models I have paperwork for.  Purple highlight are the redundant switches - you can see only one needs to close for circuit to work - but then it goes down thru a payout relay switch and feeds both the win meter and the coin unit disc (orange highlight) to the payout counter step-up coil (not shown).


if payout is right, then the pulse switches are working well enough and your win meter issue could only be:
1] the win meter itself or the wire 70 connection to it
2] plug connections along wire 84 to the win meter are flaky


if you have a total out meter and it always matches the number of coins ejected, but the win meter AND payout is not always right, then it could be the payout relay switch.

[Herbie21]

hi I will wait till I have the lifter, I have them in stock but at another location, 2 weeks and I will be ok.


I have another question there are 3 new, closed relays in this machine, do I have to open them to clean?


Where is this 'hopper cut off' relay and what does it do. The tilt lamp is on this relay.


love my first low boys and the sound of the big tokens fulling in the tray is great, I will leave them on tokens!


cheers Herbie

[wolftalk]

grab the 5000 manual from http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ball_manuals/


page 23 describes the hopper cutoff relay and the circuit, but the short answer is if the payout relay is powered (so hopper motor is running) but the microswitch on the ratchet edge on the payout counter is not pulsing, the game quickly powers the HCR to disconnect the payout relay and light the tilt light.


it's a safety circuit to help prevent runaway payout (the machine dumping all the loot in the hopper to what would be a very happy player)


where the relay is I don't know.  I'd guess since wire 97 is on the hopper plug, it's on the hopper.    There's two relays with electrolytic capacitors and diodes connected to the coils someplace in the machine.  The HCR has a 50 mfd cap on it.


the enclosed relays you can leave alone.  The dry black stuff on the contacts won't bother anything unless so much of it accumulates it makes a short (extremely rare).  The relay case keeps the oil vapors from depositing on the switches, and it's the wet looking buildup that's more a problem on the open relay switches.


if a contact on a enclosed relay gets badly pitted, you can either open the case and try and try and file it, or just replace the relay.  They are standard relays used in a ton of electrical equipment, so they are widely available and cheap.