Double Diamond - Newbie Help - Error code 21

[Dalbok]

Hello, I’m new to these forums and new to slot machines.  I purchased a working Double Diamond for mother to be able to play.   It was working when I first set it up save for the fact that it started showing an Error Code 21.  We could open / reclose the door to reset and clear the error.  Sometimes it would go for an hour and sometimes it would only go for a couple of games before getting a 21 error again.  I left and my mother played it for an hour before it got the 21 error code and opening / closing the door wouldn’t reset it (besides the fact that she wasn’t comfortable opening/closing the door). 


In any case, I had been reading up on error code 21 and the optics.   I spent several hours tonight figuring out how to get the comparator out (much easier than I expected, popping right out) and removing the optic board.  I used qtips & water to clean the optics, put everything back together and powered the machine back on and the 21 error came back on after a game or 2. 


Next I got into test mode and tested 13 (which I believe is the door optic) and that tested out fine.  I was thinking there may have been something with that since opening/closing the door seemed to resolve it. 


In any case, I ended up cycling up through all of the test codes using the JP reset key until is cycled back to the beginning.  I was about to test codes 10, 11 and 12 to test the coin optics and I don’t know exactly what I did but I powered the machine off and powered it back on and it wouldn’t come on all of the way. 


The reels didn’t spin, the insert coin light didn’t come on.  All backglass lights came on and the 25¢ light came on and a 0 appeared coins played area and the bottom candle light just blinks fast.  Putting coins in would just drop straight through.


I checked all of the wire connections that I had been messing with and they were all snug. 


Any ideas on what I could have done?


I’ve attached a picture for what it looks like although the 0 didn’t appear in the picture for coins played it is lit up. 


Thanks in advance.

[Dalbok]

I forgot to mention that you can hear the bill validator cycle-up when it turns on, so I think they parts ok and I looked in the belly door and couldn’t find a switch in that door.

[Dalbok]

And this machine may be an S+ vs an S2000.  I didn’t realize the difference before I just read a thread about the difference (s2000 having text errors vs S+ having codes).  If that’s the case, feel free to move this to the correct forum.

[sixcardmark]

You may still be in test mode.  Open the door and press the white test button next to power switch until it cycles all the way thru, then close the door and wait for reels to spin.

[Dalbok]

You may still be in test mode.  Open the door and press the white test button next to power switch until it cycles all the way thru, then close the door and wait for reels to spin.

Thanks sixcardmark.  I did try pressing the test button again but it didn’t appear to do anything.  No test codes would come up in the display any longer. 

[knagl]

You have an IGT S+ upright slot machine.

Your current issue is likely the power connection between the power supply and the fixed motherboard in the bottom of the machine. Turn your machine's power off and then take a look at this thread for information: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14163.0

[Dalbok]

Thanks knagl.  I will head back over there this week and take a look.  If there’s anything else you all think I’d should look for while I’m there, I’ll try that too.   I found another post suggest the door optics may get misaligned and the machine doesn’t think the door is closed so I’ll look at that as well. 

You have an IGT S+ upright slot machine.

Your current issue is likely the power connection between the power supply and the fixed motherboard in the bottom of the machine. Turn your machine's power off and then take a look at this thread for information: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14163.0

[Dalbok]

Ok, I got over there this morning and took a look at that connection and it didn’t look burnt.  I took some pictures of the MPU as well.   There was a wire back that there that wasn’t connected to anything but I didn’t see a place for it to connect (so I’m guessing it was already that way).  I had never removed the hopper before this.


I did find a loose wire to the speaker on the coin tray that I reconnected.  Not sure if that’s the only speaker but sound was working fine and I had never removed the coin tray before either so I was surprised to see that off.


And the reels seemed loose to me.  I could spin them. There was some tension from the slots they clicked in to but didn’t take any effort to turn them.  I’ve seen that discussed on other threads so it seemed relevant to include although I’m not 100% certain what’s considered loose to turn. 

You have an IGT S+ upright slot machine.

Your current issue is likely the power connection between the power supply and the fixed motherboard in the bottom of the machine. Turn your machine's power off and then take a look at this thread for information: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14163.0

[Dalbok]

I just realized the speaker in the coin tray isn’t connected to anything, so not sure what the purpose of that is. I see a speaker in the belly door that I assume is the one I’ve been hearing.


Also, there are 3 loose connectors hanging in the belly door, two are cable-tied but I don’t see anything for any of them to connect to, so I assume they aren’t related to the issue since it was working fine.  Picture attached. 

[Jim]

The reels have to be locked into place, this has to be determined before you go any farther.  if you can take one finger and spin the reel and it spins freely, then it is not locked into position,  if you need to use more than one finger and need to apply force and it moves one or two positions at a time, then it is locked in place.

Jim

[Dalbok]

Thanks for the clarification Jim.  I am definitely able to move the reel with one finger.  I assume that wasn’t the case yesterday before this all started. 

The reels have to be locked into place, this has to be determined before you go any farther.  if you can take one finger and spin the reel and it spins freely, then it is not locked into position,  if you need to use more than one finger and need to apply force and it moves one or two positions at a time, then it is locked in place.

Jim

[Tilt]

Also did you remove this connector and look at the backside?  That's usually where it's usually burnt.

[Dalbok]

Thanks Tilt.  I hadn’t done that, but sounds like a common sense thing to do after I read your reply.  So I just disconnected and took a look and it looks clean to me and the pins look clean.  New pictures attached. 

Also did you remove this connector and look at the backside?  That's usually where it's usually burnt.

[Jim]

put the board back in the machine, power it up, leave the hopper out,  with the machine on,  reach in and wiggle that connector, you may have to raise it  slowly while wiggling, while doing this observe the reels ,you will see them lock into place when power is restored.  if this fails then you might have an intermittent fuse cap problem.  the main cause for the reels not being held in place is a power problem.

Jim

[sixcardmark]

And the reels seemed loose to me.  I could spin them. There was some tension from the slots they clicked in to but didn’t take any effort to turn them.  I’ve seen that discussed on other threads so it seemed relevant to include although I’m not 100% certain what’s considered loose to turn. 

Sounds like the reels are getting power.(stiff)

[Jim]

I can see that you have one of the pins in your connector has unreasonable distance in comparison to the other five, you can see this yourself, the distance of the metal connector toward the side of the connector, ( second pin)   you can pull out that one pin out and clean and reshape it.

Jim

[Dalbok]

I got the impression from Jim’s description that the reel was loose.  I could move it with a single finger.  I can just feel the grooves in the wheel that the reel slots into as it turns.  That was the only tension I could detect. 

And the reels seemed loose to me.  I could spin them. There was some tension from the slots they clicked in to but didn’t take any effort to turn them.  I’ve seen that discussed on other threads so it seemed relevant to include although I’m not 100% certain what’s considered loose to turn. 

Sounds like the reels are getting power.(stiff)

[rickhunter]

If you have a speaker in your coin tray, the coin tray is from an S2000, whoever had it before probably couldn't source an S+ tray, but they are the same size, so the speaker will just sit there.

What we mean when the reels are stiff is what you describe.  You feel "steps" as you move it, also if you try to manually spin the reel by giving it a flick, when they are loose, they will freely spin and eventually stop due to just plain friction like a wheel on a skateboard.  If they are stiff, they will immediately stop.  It sounds from your description that the reels are getting power.

[Dalbok]

I still need to try your other suggestion as well (I just left there).  Just to be clear on the what you were referring to here, your talking about the connector in the attached picture?

I can see that you have one of the pins in your connector has unreasonable distance in comparison to the other five, you can see this yourself, the distance of the metal connector toward the side of the connector, ( second pin)   you can pull out that one pin out and clean and reshape it.

Jim

[Dalbok]

Thanks for that explanation.  Makes sense about the tray. 


As for the reels, thanks for that explanation.  I was thinking those steps were grooves in the wheel/rod that it’s spinning on.  I will reconfirm again when I get back there but sounds like that’s a good think if power is getting to the reels.

If you have a speaker in your coin tray, the coin tray is from an S2000, whoever had it before probably couldn't source an S+ tray, but they are the same size, so the speaker will just sit there.

What we mean when the reels are stiff is what you describe.  You feel "steps" as you move it, also if you try to manually spin the reel by giving it a flick, when they are loose, they will freely spin and eventually stop due to just plain friction like a wheel on a skateboard.  If they are stiff, they will immediately stop.  It sounds from your description that the reels are getting power.