Thanks Guys!! I increased the tension on the stepper spring and now it wizzes back real fast.

fwiw, you can get away with that when a stepper unit doesn't step up too many times, but you should still verify the unit steps up all the way without struggling at the top step(s) if you add tension to the torsion spring.

the payout counter spins the wipers more than 720 degrees, so if the torsion spring is too tight, the unit can't step up far enough and you get runaway payout and/or safety shutdown.

2 turns of tension when the unit is reset is the normal amount, increasing to maybe 2.25 or 2.5.  Anything more than that and the problem is elsewhere:
- cruddy rivets / wiper contacts
- sticky/dried lubrication on ratchet shaft
- excessive wiper tension onto the rivets

'course, someone may have installed the spring with too little tension, so try and remember the 2 turns rule so ya don't need to keep looking it up like I do.

thanks Tim , I will call scott ,also the picture that Mark has posted is whole machine , it does not have top glass, tnx everyone ALI

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this or the mills M? I think that machine is the same. I bought it unseen in boxes and I can't figure out the transformer and hopper wiring, feels like I'm missing a pice of harness there in between. Maybe someone has a galaxy with hopper and could help me with pictures?

TK and CVE, pm me.

Hello:  Welcome to NLG. Glad to have you here, we can certainly help you with this.

I work on Ceronix 1492 boards almost every day so I am very familiar with them.
The first question I have is what is your level of knowledge working with monitors, safety wise, etc?
I recently started a series of videos on Youtube doing an overview of the 1492 (which includes 1490) and the layout of the board. The first overview video is live and the first of two repairing an actual board. I also posted one recently for another member who wanted to see how to pull and swap the board. I am not a professional. LOL

I have a basic "checkup" I do on every board before I power it up, if you can tell me how it died I might be able to narrow a few things down for you.
1. Depending on date of manufacture, caps are highly suspect. However, only two on the board are likely to cause complete shut down. Having said that, some of the earlier boards have original caps that seem to last forever.
2. Are you getting any chirping from the board?  You might have to listen very closely, sometimes it sounds like little puffs of air...sometimes fast sometimes slow and steady. This tells us a story.
3. If completely dead, it could be flyback. In which case you might as well buy a working board. Flybacks are not available, or rarely. 

There are a few members and supporting shops you can send your board to and we can look at it. Feel free to send me a PM,  I am happy to look at a board and cap it for you if the flyback isn't dead.

Chris

Hi Chris and thank you so much for the warm welcome!

I have some general knowledge of electronics but no experience with monitors. I do know you have to be VERY careful around the flyback connection to the monitor.

There is no chirping sound that I've heard but i will power it up and really listen hard for it. Using a thermal camera, I did notice the resistor next to the 2 big caps was getting warm as well as the board just above it (circled in the pics) but nothing else on the board is showing signs of heat.

I have ordered in a LCD replacement from Ceronix so if i cant get this monitor working, the upgraded screen should get the game fully functional again. That being said, it would be pretty neat to have the original monitor functioning properly just for nostalgic sake.

Thanks,
Chris