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1
I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.

Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the optics tests?
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0

Click on photo of old style metal cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>

Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?
2
So.....

If its not the optics themselves follow the wire..... something in the optic circuit is disconnecting, and from the information provided it seems to be related to the physical movement of the handle and/or subsequent vibrations into the rest of the machine that is causing the disconnect to happen. It issue doesn't have to be at the optic end and by using two different sets of optics with different means to couple the optics you have pretty much ruled that end of the problem out. There is still the other end of the wire...... the connector that it plugs into, then the MPU board connects into the motherboard..... we just need to keep following the problem backwards like we did with your reel errors.

I would even suggest you pull the MPU board and clean the edge connector on both sides with a white eraser to eliminate any potential issues there. Spray some contact cleaner into the edge connector (power off of course).


Great idea, I AKM going to trace the wires with my meter.

I have cleaned the connectors, however I will check everything out.
3
IGT S and S-plus Reel Games / Re: IGT Double diamond S Plus, RESTORATION
« Last post by knagl on Today at 02:27:27 PM »
If its not the optics themselves follow the wire..... something in the optic circuit is disconnecting, and from the information provided it seems to be related to the physical movement of the handle and/or subsequent vibrations into the rest of the machine that is causing the disconnect to happen. It issue doesn't have to be at the optic end and by using two different sets of optics with different means to couple the optics you have pretty much ruled that end of the problem out.

 :I_agree_1:

I agree with this 100%. If you have two sets of optics and the exact same thing is happening with both of them, it's somewhere else in the circuit that the issue is cropping up when the machine is vibrated.
4
I just installed the TITO at Home board on my Konami K2V. As far as I know, you need an addon to make it work. titoathome_dot_com
If I take out the time that I was being an idiot during the programming, it took me less than 30 minutes for the basic setup. After that I did a few more passes on the settings that were nonessential for the operation of the TITO device, and more towards what was printing on the ticket and setting up the free play options. When you buy suck a device, the instructions for setup are included. If there is a way to do this without an external device, maybe someone else can help.
5
Sacrificing my pride here - for some unknown reason, I totally spaced out that there is a second slot for the clear CF. I was removing the game CF and replacing with the clear CF... DOH. Once I remembered that there was a second slot for the clear, all was well again. Explaining here so that the poor next guy doesn't make the same mistake. This time I've taken the time to document the process as well as taking pictures of all of my precious setting and any other tips to future self.

Thanks for reaching out.
6
IGT S and S-plus Reel Games / Re: IGT Double diamond S Plus, RESTORATION
« Last post by jay on Today at 12:42:20 PM »
So.....

If its not the optics themselves follow the wire..... something in the optic circuit is disconnecting, and from the information provided it seems to be related to the physical movement of the handle and/or subsequent vibrations into the rest of the machine that is causing the disconnect to happen. It issue doesn't have to be at the optic end and by using two different sets of optics with different means to couple the optics you have pretty much ruled that end of the problem out. There is still the other end of the wire...... the connector that it plugs into, then the MPU board connects into the motherboard..... we just need to keep following the problem backwards like we did with your reel errors.

I would even suggest you pull the MPU board and clean the edge connector on both sides with a white eraser to eliminate any potential issues there. Spray some contact cleaner into the edge connector (power off of course).
7
SIGMA Reel Games / Treasure wheel
« Last post by John jackson on Today at 12:34:01 PM »
Is there any one here who has the treasure wheel slot machine ,if so can u take pics of the reset menu wires from inside the machine so I can wire in a new switch and a reset button please
8
Optics for the door, and door tester.  :nerd:

https://youtu.be/pSEfqwQ50DE
9
I think we are at the same spot.

What Mark (Bunker) was saying is that the behavior you are seeing is normal when the door optics are disconnected and gave you a roadmap if you ever wanted to mod the machine to be in free-play.

What we are trying to solve is why the door optics are disconnecting at random times - perhaps associated with the handle movement.
Your posts seemed to indicate that the only time the issue was occuring was when you were using the slot arm and never occured when you were just using the spin buttons.

My earlier post speculates/theorizes that the optic wire was running by the interior handle mech and was being compromised in someway. Ie crimped, pulled, shorted etc.

Thank you, everyone, for putting up with my learning curve, I am trying to get up to speed.
So, the problem is in the optics.
Both my door optics and my tester optics create the same problem nothing has changed.
10
David, I see you have the optics mounted on a box so that they're always closed (unless you block the path with something) rather than them being mounted in the machine like they normally would have been.

That's fine, let's work with that. If you place your optics box on a solid surface that isn't affected by the physical movement of the handle mechanism, does this issue still happen? If so, you then likely have a loose wire connection (or an intermittent short as Jay suggested) for your door circuit that is causing the machine to think that the door has been briefly opened when you operate your pull handle.

That is my tester, I built it for diagnostics. The door and cabinet have their own optics. It's a plug in, unplug system, nothing is hacked, butchered, just plug and unplug. The optics wiring is "factory".

Basically I have two sets of optics.
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