Author Topic: Trying to bypass Optics, but my wires are different?? (Read 1448 times)

murf2222 · « **on:** June 29, 2020, 11:36:31 AM »

I want to bypass the Door Optics on my S2000, but the wire colors on the instructions/photos I've found here are different than mine. (specifically the thread *How to permanently bypass S2000 door optics*),

*My Door optic has Green and Red wires going to it
*My Cabinet optic has Green and Purple

Can someone clue me in on which color I'm supposed to connect the bypass wire to? My goal is to connect to the cherry switch.

RB · « **Reply #1 on:** June 29, 2020, 01:19:16 PM »

The door optic is irrelevant. The connection is made inside the cabinet behind the reel shelf. This diagram is accurate as well as the colors of the wires.

murf2222 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 29, 2020, 01:50:02 PM »

Ah! Thank you RB......I finally located the connector in your photo (Green / Red ). It was tucked away and hidden on my machine.

So if I follow that diagram, AND use the plug in your photo it looks like I can figure it out now! (yes, some of us are quite slow with this kind of stuff

.

RB · « **Reply #3 on:** June 29, 2020, 02:04:19 PM »

Your finished harness should look something like this. Mine is plug & play without alteration to the machine harness.

murf2222 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 29, 2020, 06:16:56 PM »

Well, I tried following the diagram exactly, and no luck. I am still getting MB Closure errors / call attendant.

What's REALLY confusing me NOW is what appears to be contradictory info on the thread where that diagram was originally posted. One Poster (Foster) mentioned something about only needing to connect the Red Door optic wire to the Green machine optic wire. And that the Purple machine optic wire isn't connected to the Green Door optic wire at all? In fact one of the last posts in that thread tried to simplify it for someone confused like me and indicated the same.......

"T Now forget everything you have ever read about bypassing door optics. Try this using only one piece of wire about 5 feet long ( you don't need welding cable 26/28 ga is plenty big enough ) OK now remove about 3/8 of a inch of insulation on both ends of this new wire. Unplug the door optics, stick the bare end of the wire into the optic plug hole that has the RED wire and plug the cptic back together. do the same thing with the other end of the wire at the cabnet optics but this time it goes into the hole with the Green wire."
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Sunrise Side · « **Reply #5 on:** June 29, 2020, 08:04:17 PM »

Here's how I do mine. Take the connector from the belly door switch , squeeze down the red female spade terminal and connect it to the white plunger switch on the cabinet located by the optics. Connect to the Com. and N.O. terminals.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #6 on:** June 29, 2020, 08:06:05 PM »

Disconnect the optics and connect the belly door switch Molex connector to the optics cabinet harness to where you just disconnected the optics and then connect the 2 female spade terminals to the White plunger switch Com. and N.O. terminals . By Using The outer 2 terminals , of the lower 3 terminals, on the switch as pictured.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #7 on:** June 29, 2020, 08:25:08 PM »

Now remove your reels and cut the Green and Red wire at the point next to the cable tie or go up to the next cable tie if you want a little more length to work with. Route that cut wires down behind the reel shelf down to the top Right corner of the Motherboard. You will be splicing in the Green and Red wire at this point.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #8 on:** June 29, 2020, 08:36:07 PM »

At the top right corner of the motherboard is J ? I have to get that J number and wire numbers on the Molex tomorrow. You will find the Purple and Green wires that come from the White Plunger switch. You will ONLY cut the Purple wire!!! Then connect the Red and Green wires to the cut Purple wire. MUST Connect the Green wire to the Purple wire at the Molex and connect the Red wire to the Purple going into the harness to the plunger switch.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #9 on:** June 29, 2020, 08:38:55 PM »

Thats it . Let me know if I need to modify my information

qbert · « **Reply #10 on:** June 29, 2020, 09:22:08 PM »

Try this, properly align the original optics and replace the MPU which probably still has the corroded green Varta battery still on it. Then you don't have to worry about chopping up a perfectly good wiring harness and eliminate your frustration trying to bypass a perfectly good system that the factory designed.
99% of the time optics are not aligned properly or the MPU is toast.

murf2222 · « **Reply #11 on:** June 29, 2020, 10:20:04 PM »

Boy I sure hope it's not the MPU, but No signs of the green battery leaking. I've spent literally HOURS adjusting the optics with minimal success, and it never seems to last......That's why I decided to ditch them altogether so I could at least eliminate them being the cause of all my MB Closure and now Coin-in errors.

Sunrise, thanks a ton for posting all of that, but your machine doesn't seem to look like mine - PLUS, now that I've hacked into my wiring harness and spent hours trying to duplicate the setup in the diagram shown at the beginning of the thread, I would like to stay on THAT path.

I cannot believe how frustrating this machine has been, especially because I chose it based on what I'd read about how robust the S2000 was. I gave up on trying to repair a 20+ year old Aristocrat with bad power supply as everyone was telling me it was a boat-anchor, but gotta say that thing was bullet-proof compared to THIS machine

qbert · « **Reply #12 on:** June 30, 2020, 04:18:38 AM »

Post a picture of the MPU where the green battery is/or used to be.

Moderator please move to S2000

RB · « **Reply #13 on:** June 30, 2020, 04:24:09 AM »

Quote from: qbert on June 29, 2020, 09:22:08 PM

Try this, properly align the original optics and replace the MPU which probably still has the corroded green Varta battery still on it. Then you don't have to worry about chopping up a perfectly good wiring harness and eliminate your frustration trying to bypass a perfectly good system that the factory designed.
99% of the time optics are not aligned properly or the MPU is toast.

Jim · « **Reply #14 on:** June 30, 2020, 05:34:26 AM »

there are two other areas that will give you intermittent door open signals, the cash can door switch and the belly door switch, both of these should be bypassed.

murf2222 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 30, 2020, 09:07:17 AM »

I've previously bypassed both the Cash door and the Belly door switches. I see zero signs of any leakage onto any of the traces/circuits. (I just tried uploading a photo, but it's not working now?)Thanks for all the advise guys....I need all the help I can get

murf2222 · « **Reply #16 on:** June 30, 2020, 09:29:38 AM »

......And if anybody knows of an S2000 expert that is near San Diego area, I'd certainly be willing to pay them to come over and help me diagnose this thing

Also, I'd be interested in hiring one of the resident S2000 experts here to do a phone consultation and walk me thru diagnosing this, I can paypal you the $.

knagl · « **Reply #17 on:** June 30, 2020, 01:55:38 PM »

Looks like some corrosion/leakage to me.

murf2222 · « **Reply #18 on:** June 30, 2020, 04:08:38 PM »

Hmm, I just looked again and just don't see any. It was dirty for sure so I cleaned the area. Here are more pics.
Part of me WANTS it to be a leaking battery, as THEN I could assume the board is bad and work on getting a new one from somewhere. Speaking of which - anyone have suggestions on where to buy one if that's what I need?

qbert · « **Reply #19 on:** June 30, 2020, 04:37:31 PM »

You can remove that battery it's not needed.
You can carefully just snap it off an see if the traces underneath it are corroded. Traces are very small.

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Author Topic: Trying to bypass Optics, but my wires are different?? (Read 1448 times)