S2000 from Hell!!

[qbert]

Reels spinning up signify a problem. 
When machine boots reels spin right to left, top to bottom.
Normal game play reels spin left to right, top to bottom.

Reels spinning bottom to top indicates a problem.
With machine off unplug the larger plug on the display.
Boot and see if direction changes. Like I said you may have to cycle the door handle to get to 7 set display error.

[rickhunter]

These two pins are power to the comparitor, should read 13v.  If you are not getting any power at all, then there might be a power problem?  Almost everything else uses 24volts.  Since your buttons are also not lighting up and they use 14v (and they are not even working, although they are separate circuits i.e. the lights and the button actions are two different circuits), I would start looking for some kind of trace damage on your backplane (where everything plugs in).  It's possible you had some sort of short that burned some traces on your backplane.  IF everything looks good, try a known working power supply.

[murf2222]

Reels spinning up signify a problem. 
When machine boots reels spin right to left, top to bottom.
Normal game play reels spin left to right, top to bottom.

Reels spinning bottom to top indicates a problem.
With machine off unplug the larger plug on the display.
Boot and see if direction changes. Like I said you may have to cycle the door handle to get to 7 set display error.

First off.....You guys are awesome.  I SO APPRECIATE everyone's help as I'm pretty clueless.  Sucks too cuz I'm a DIY'er and this is making me feel helpless....lol.

**Rich I unplugged the Red LED display plug and no change.   I also cycled the door open/close about 10 times trying to get a display error on screen in addition to the "coin in Jam", but no luck.

[qbert]

All that was going to do is see if the reels changed direction on the boot up.
If no change I would start chasing the 12volt issue.
Are any candles lit on top of the machine?

[murf2222]

All that was going to do is see if the reels changed direction on the boot up.
If no change I would start chasing the 12volt issue.
Are any candles lit on top of the machine?

Yes, both candle lights are flashing upon boot-up, and after booting complete it's just the top blue one continues to flash

[Retro tech repair]

if it a 50x series board check u 67 on the mpu. every time i have ever seen the reels spin backwards it was been a senet problem. u67 is the senet buffer.

[murf2222]

if it a 50x series board check u 67 on the mpu. every time i have ever seen the reels spin backwards it was been a senet problem. u67 is the senet buffer.

I'm a newbie, but yes I think it's that series of board (it appears to end in 504 on one of the stickers).

I found the U67 chip and visually I don't see anything wrong, but I have no clue how one goes about checking it.  That's super interesting though that you've seen this before and it's always that.  Maybe getting a new MPU is my best plan at this juncture?

If the U67 is my problem, could it be causing all these other symptoms too?   

[Retro tech repair]

Most that i have seen blown have been visibly bad not to say yours may not be still bad. I have replaced that chip on more boards than i can count. The problems can also be caused by a bad senet device.


Senet devices are.
I/o cards games will have 2 or 3 of these depending on how many buttons you have.
Credit display
Bet per line display
Reel backlight driver
Bonus reel in 3 + 1 bonus games
There may also be some top box adons that also use senet.

[qbert]

Good explanation, that is why I recommended replacing the red LED display. I have had them and I/O cards cause reverse spinning reels and since he replaced the I/O card. (Still could be cabinet I/O also)
He also may have a 12V issue (should not be related to backward spin).
You might want to remove and inspect the connector on the power supply located behind the reels. Reinstall and see if comparator LED lights.

[Retro tech repair]

It could also be u721 but i have only ever had to replace that chip once.

[murf2222]

Good explanation, that is why I recommended replacing the red LED display. I have had them and I/O cards cause reverse spinning reels and since he replaced the I/O card. (Still could be cabinet I/O also)
He also may have a 12V issue (should not be related to backward spin).
You might want to remove and inspect the connector on the power supply located behind the reels. Reinstall and see if comparator LED lights.

Okay, so I pulled the power supply and both sides of the connector look good.


Earlier however, I found what's likely a smoking-gun!  On my MPU........One of the many, many brass pins on the main connector was severely bent over.  Probably happened during one of the dozens of MPU board pulls at the beginning of this odyssey, while I was working on an unrelated problem  (my repeated door optics alignment errors).


I carefully bent the pin back and feel confident that it's it good shape now, but perhaps this bent pin caused my Red LED display board to blow?  And all the other symptoms could merely be a byproduct of the now faulty display?  UGH!


Well, I already have a cabinet I/O board on it's way......looks like I am gonna be in the market for a new Display and/or MPU now too

[Retro tech repair]

I have had pins short out before and them not do permanent damage I would bend it back and see what happens.

[murf2222]

I have had pins short out before and them not do permanent damage I would bend it back and see what happens.

Oh, sorry I didn't clarify.   Yes, I bent it back and turned the machine on several times to see if anything changed.  I even ran the clear chip sequence again, but nothing has changed.


That pin was completely bent over and I'm pretty sure it wasn't making contact, so odds are that it would have been causing SOME kind of mishap....I just don't know if it was the root cause of any/all these other issues. 

[qbert]

Did the LED on the coin comparator come back on after you straightened the pins on the mpu?

[murf2222]

Did the LED on the coin comparator come back on after you straitened the pins on the mpu?

Unfortunately no Rich, ALL the symptoms/errors were still there after the pin was corrected.

[rickhunter]

I powered up my machine with no MPU installed, and the comparitor's led was lit.  So if you are not getting the voltage to the comparitor, you need to trace where it is the power circuit is damaged.

[murf2222]

I powered up my machine with no MPU installed, and the comparitor's led was lit.  So if you are not getting the voltage to the comparitor, you need to trace where it is the power circuit is damaged.

Wow, I didn't even know you can power one of these up without an MPU.   Wouldn't that be crazy if I did the same and the Comparitor came to life!

[Jim]

I just looked at the schematics for the power to the CC-16,  the +13vdc for the cc-16 and all the button lamps come  through the door I/O board, for the CC-16  its pins 25A and 26A , check the voltage going into the motherboard, (plug at the bottom of the mother board right side)  black wires with red or orange tracer are grounds for their respective voltage, solid red wire anywhere in the machine is +13vdc, any solid orange wire in the machine is +25 vdc. you can use the metal frame of the machine as ground to measure the DC voltages. if they are present at that plug, more than likely they are being sent to the I/O plug.

Hope this Helps

Jim

[murf2222]

I just looked at the schematics for the power to the CC-16,  the +13vdc for the cc-16 and all the button lamps come  through the door I/O board, for the CC-16  its pins 25A and 26A , check the voltage going into the motherboard, (plug at the bottom of the mother board right side)  black wires with red or orange tracer are grounds for their respective voltage, solid red wire anywhere in the machine is +13vdc, any solid orange wire in the machine is +25 vdc. you can use the metal frame of the machine as ground to measure the DC voltages. if they are present at that plug, more than likely they are being sent to the I/O plug.

Hope this Helps

Jim

Thanks Jim, I started poking around with my voltage meter and saw that I was getting 12 volts at the Door I/O plug.  I THEN decided to try and find confirmation of same voltage coming out of the female socket below, via belly door access, and HERE is where it gets interesting.............

I unscrewed the single screw that holds the whole I/O card assembly to get better access, and started wiggling the card around to make sure it was seated.  SUDDENLY I started seeing the Red LED display lighting up!  But every time I would push to fully seat the card, the display would lose power!

Turns out the power wire receptacles (red/blk) at the female socket are bad - Lucky ME.  I meticulously attempted to clean out the deformed (because of heat) pin receivers,  test-seated the card several times and decided to try and power it up........BAD Idea!!   There must now be an internal short in that female connector that I made WORSE as things started smoking on the I/O card as soon as I turned it on!   UGH.


So NOW I have at a minimum a bad female I/O door connector that has to be replaced by either trying to source the entire harness, or cutting out and splicing in a new one (with it's 50 wires to contend with!).  I may have fried My I/O card too, and who knows what else.  I can only HOPE that this issue was the source of all my other errors symptoms.


 

[Jim]

is you button panel a regular five button panel?  where is the plug for the red LED display ?  take a picture of the your display board on the inner door, this will show where it is connected. depending on where the connection is I probably have a harness you could swap out and hopefully solve some of your issues.

Jim