Author Topic: S Plus hopper wont work during game play (Read 1301 times)

newkid3 · « **on:** June 22, 2021, 01:43:27 PM »

Hello all, I have a IGT S Plus Money Storm I am trying to get working for my neighbor. I have the machine working fine when I have it set to pay credits. I can play it like that as long as I want. The problem is if I get it down to 0 credits and then switch it to pay coins it plays great until I hit the first win of any kind. The hopper does not try to move or hum or anything. Then I get the 3300 hopper empty error code. It does the same thing if I have credits on it and hit the cash out button. I had the 3300 code and it needed to pay out 2 coins so i took the coin tray off and made up a cheater stick out of an old metal antenna. Got it in place closed the door then as soon as I seen the 1 coin played I moved the cheater stick up and down to make it think it paid me 2 coins. The only way to clear the 3300 code if hopper wont operate. Ok back to the hopper. I tested it on the bench and the hopper runs great. Spits coins out like it should. I also tried the hopper test and it will not operate. I thought ok has to be wiring issue. So I beeped out wires 5,6,8,9,10 on J10 connector to the hopper area were each one goes. All of them had connection like they should. The weird thing is when I last messed with this about a couple months ago the hopper worked fine. All I did today was put new buttons in it and put a new display in it. Then went to play it and had this hopper issue. About to drive me crazy. Anyone know of anything else that could be keeping the hopper from working? Also I took the hopper out and checked the bottom two connectors on the hopper plug inside the machine for voltage. The two you plug a cord into to bench test hopper. It had 120 volts as soon as I turned the switch on all the way through shutting the door and bootup. It stayed at 120 volts even after I got the 3300 error code. Is that normal? Should there always be 120 volts there if machine is on. Thanks for looking

jay · « **Reply #1 on:** June 22, 2021, 03:54:07 PM »

Is the spring functioning on the hopper brake ?? this is a common cause.

On the back of the hopper there is a spring loaded pivot that is pushed open by a solenoid.
The spring often breaks and then the hopper won't turn - it just humms alot as the motor is trying to turn then the error ensues.

You can cheat and use 1/2 a spring from an old Bic Pen until you can get a proper spring.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #2 on:** June 22, 2021, 04:06:54 PM »

Did you wire the cashout button properly when you changed the buttons?

newkid3 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 22, 2021, 04:47:33 PM »

Thanks for the replies, Jay the hopper does not hum or do anything. I have the coin tray off of it and have held the brake in manually after shutting the door and there is no hum no vibration. It just goes back to 3300 code.
therockinelvis, how does that cash out button need to be wired? I have this one with the 2 outside wires for the light just like they were. I have the under bottom wire in same spot just like original. I have the other wire on the second terminal down on the front. This would be the only wire that could be wrong if it needs to be on the top terminal. Does that sound right? Thanks

newkid3 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 22, 2021, 04:56:38 PM »

After thinking about it some more the cash out switch has to be hooked up right. If I put it in pay credit mode I can play it as long as I want. Then when I hit the cash out button it dings like it should but the hopper does not try to turn and then the 3300 code comes up.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #5 on:** June 22, 2021, 05:06:02 PM »

I can't remember which button is wired differently, just know one is different. Not near a machine now

jay · « **Reply #6 on:** June 22, 2021, 05:06:41 PM »

You also said the hopper test was a dud...but the hopper on the bench worked like a champ.

I would subsequently be checking the plug that the hopper plugs into and see if its getting voltage.

You would see the power applied on a hopper test or with the hopper removed, belly door open, you should be able to get your multimeter probes in the socket and do a proper cash out.

If no power then I would be checking all of your fuses (with a meter) for continuity and then start tracing some wires.
If you are getting power then I would check the coupling from the back of the hopper, maybe some contact cleaner on the pins.

newkid3 · « **Reply #7 on:** June 22, 2021, 05:33:31 PM »

On the hopper plug the bottom two slots going across them measures 120 volts at all times. What other slots should I be checking and how do I check them? Is it a slot to slot check or ground to slot check on the others? Also what should I be looking for as far as voltages on these slots? Is there somewhere that has all of this info? Thanks

newkid3 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 22, 2021, 05:52:29 PM »

I wish I had another S Plus here. I have some S2000"s of my own here but no S Plus. I would like to make sure I do have the cash out button hooked up right. I am afraid to just move that wire to the top terminal and it mess something up worse. Anyone got a pic of how it needs to be hooked up? Thanks

jay · « **Reply #9 on:** June 22, 2021, 06:53:10 PM »

Page 36 of the S+ electronic repair manual

Contributing members can find a full copy of the manual in our downloads section.

Badbaud · « **Reply #10 on:** June 22, 2021, 09:43:53 PM »

Quote from: newkid3 on June 22, 2021, 01:43:27 PM

Hello all, I have a IGT S Plus Money Storm I am trying to get working for my neighbor. I have the machine working fine when I have it set to pay credits. I can play it like that as long as I want. The problem is if I get it down to 0 credits and then switch it to pay coins it plays great until I hit the first win of any kind. The hopper does not try to move or hum or anything. Then I get the 3300 hopper empty error code. It does the same thing if I have credits on it and hit the cash out button. I had the 3300 code and it needed to pay out 2 coins so i took the coin tray off and made up a cheater stick out of an old metal antenna. Got it in place closed the door then as soon as I seen the 1 coin played I moved the cheater stick up and down to make it think it paid me 2 coins. The only way to clear the 3300 code if hopper wont operate. Ok back to the hopper. I tested it on the bench and the hopper runs great. Spits coins out like it should. I also tried the hopper test and it will not operate. I thought ok has to be wiring issue. So I beeped out wires 5,6,8,9,10 on J10 connector to the hopper area were each one goes. All of them had connection like they should. The weird thing is when I last messed with this about a couple months ago the hopper worked fine. All I did today was put new buttons in it and put a new display in it. Then went to play it and had this hopper issue. About to drive me crazy. Anyone know of anything else that could be keeping the hopper from working? Also I took the hopper out and checked the bottom two connectors on the hopper plug inside the machine for voltage. The two you plug a cord into to bench test hopper. It had 120 volts as soon as I turned the switch on all the way through shutting the door and bootup. It stayed at 120 volts even after I got the 3300 error code. Is that normal? Should there always be 120 volts there if machine is on. Thanks for looking

The antenna trick is a nice touch but you can also get a normally closed pushbutton and attach wires from it to the upper right and middle left pins on the machine side hopper plug.
The wires to the switch should be long enough to extend out of the game. Tapping the pushbutton produces a coin out pulse.

Badbaud · « **Reply #11 on:** June 22, 2021, 10:00:29 PM »

Quote from: newkid3 on June 22, 2021, 05:33:31 PM

On the hopper plug the bottom two slots going across them measures 120 volts at all times. What other slots should I be checking and how do I check them? Is it a slot to slot check or ground to slot check on the others? Also what should I be looking for as far as voltages on these slots? Is there somewhere that has all of this info? Thanks

To activate the hopper you can jumper across the two output terminals on the SSR.
The SSR, Solid State Relay, has two inputs and a common center pin.
The SSR contains two triacs in series, this is a safety feature.
If a one triac hopper drive happened to get a shorted triac the hopper would empty all of it's coins.
With two triacs in series the possibility of both triacs shorting is nil, preventing a hopper run away.
You can watch the SSR DC input during a cashout with a meter and see around 7 volts from the center terminal to each end terminal.
You can also disconnect the input wires and connect a 9 Volt battery from the center terminal to each end terminal to simulate a cashout to see if the hopper runs.
If you don't see the DC inputs on the input terminals during a cashout then there is a bad driver on the MPU board.
If you apply 9V to the terminals and the hopper does not turn on it means the SSR is bad.

newkid3 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 23, 2021, 09:42:13 AM »

I jumpered across the 2 output terminals on the SSR and it made the hopper run when I turned the machine on. On the SSR input DC voltage I tried doing the hopper test to get these readings. Is that going to read the same as a payout since it is trying to activate the hopper? one side shows 8.3 volts and the other side shows 3.6 volts. Then I removed all 3 input wires and hooked the ground of 9v battery to middle terminal and the + to both outside terminals. I put the hopper In and turned the machine on and hopper did not operate. I did pull hopper back out and made sure I had 9v at both outside terminals. So does this mean the SSR is bad? Thanks

newkid3 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 23, 2021, 09:44:46 AM »

Also if it is a bad SSR where would I find one of them as a replacement? Thanks

Badbaud · « **Reply #14 on:** June 23, 2021, 12:54:58 PM »

There are plenty of vendors on this site that will sell you one.

newkid3 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 23, 2021, 01:15:21 PM »

Badbaud, so with my results would you say the SSR is bad? Thanks

Badbaud · « **Reply #16 on:** June 23, 2021, 01:39:04 PM »

Yes, the input side can go bad. The opto-isolated triac drivers have their diode (LED) turned on and off and they can wear out after a while.

newkid3 · « **Reply #17 on:** July 09, 2021, 08:46:12 AM »

I just wanted to update my results. Thanks to Jim on here I got an SSR and went ahead and ordered a couple of door locks for some of my machines. I put the SSR on and the machine plays like new now. Out of about 150 plays i hit a win one time that should have paid out 5 coins but paid out 6 and i got the 3100 error code. I opened and closed the door to reset. It must have been a fluke because all of the rest of the wins paid out perfect. So I think it is in good shape. Thanks to everyone.

jay · « **Reply #18 on:** July 09, 2021, 09:43:37 AM »

Thank you for the update.

So many people hit and run (get advice and go) and no one knows the outcome.

Hearing about your success makes it worth all the effort of running the forum.
I just wish I understood electronics to the level that some of our members do.
It never fails to impressâ€¦.

knagl · « **Reply #19 on:** July 10, 2021, 06:16:10 PM »

Congratulations on getting your machine up and running, and as Jay said, thanks for following up with what fixed your machine.

If you get an extra coin paid out again in the future, the hopper brake or spring for it would be suspect -- search for "hopper brake" in this sub-forum for many posts about it and how to fix it. I'm going to mark this topic as solved.

News:

NLG Site Navigation Menu

Author Topic: S Plus hopper wont work during game play (Read 1301 times)