Euro S+?

[igtdanmark]

hi again!

Thanks to everybody who is contributing here, this is a great forum and I highly appreciate it

Since the buttons are supposed to be normally open, I would think that's the reason why the machine is autoplaying. It is really strange that it did not do that with the original game prom, but nonetheless, that should be the issue.



I traced the cable and there is nothing wrong with the cable. When I disconnected the plug that goes to the circuit board below the MPU (in the yellow square) then it was no long normally closed, so the issue must be on that oblong circuit board. Anyone had any problems with that one? Is that an easily available part or is there any component I can change to fix it?

Thanks again

[Trisail]

You most likely have something under the motherboard in your picture that is shorting some traces together. Usually an errant coin. Remove the motherboard and remove anything that may be under it. Be sure to take a picture or label all the connectors so you know how to reinstall it correct. Common problem when the machines are moved from one place to another. Disconnecting and reconnecting all the connectors is something most people do after moving a machine, just to be sure nothing loosened up during transport.

You can find replacements if you check the home page and contact one of the vendors. You can place a classified ad if you want to asking for a replacement (you are a contributing member, one of the perks), be sure to get the correct one, there are a few different types. The board can be repaired, usually broken traces.

You appear to have one with shorted traces - most likely a piece of errant metal underneath - but could be corrosion that you should be able to clean up if that is the cause. I doubt you will need a replacement.

Let us know how it goes and if you need any more suggestions.

[Stayouttadabunker]

This thing I drew a yellow arrow pointing at....is it some sort of security clasp utilizing small aircraft wire?

It looks like it's going thru the mechanical meter harness, which is primarily brown wires, and a the J4 board connector.

I'd remove that thing...I don't like the security wire possibly shorting out bare pins in the J4 connector housing it's attached to..

The Gaming Commission should just use security tape on the connectors instead.

[igtdanmark]

Fixed!! 

I checked the circuit board, but there was nothing under it. I traced the error to J10 on the motherboard and found out that it was the switch for the arm that was connected wrong - probably by the previous owner. In other words, Sunrise Side was correct all along, just a wire connected wrongly!



Regarding the security clasp, I removed that and there is also an infrared control box connected with an external counter - that also will be removed. They tapped into several wires (probably to read pulses or something) so those needs to be resoldered and then I guess the arm also needs to be lubed up again as it is currently bleeding some pink grease

Thanks to everybody for their help!

[igtdanmark]

Two last quick questions:

- when I change the backup battery, will all settings in the test menu be lost? It needs to be changed anyways and that would be perfect since I've messed around with lots of settings.

- do anyone know if it's possible to find vector files for the belly glass for any S/S+/S2000 'red white and blue' by any chance? My plan is to install a bill acceptor and then I need to reproduce the belly glass to make space for it.

Thank you!

[jay]

Not that I am aware of. These are IGT proprietary.

There was a glass shop - that years ago had made a number of reproductions of some of the more rare themes - Munsters, 9 line triple diamond. Sold for around $180/set - $60/sheet (top, reel, belly).
I believe they scanned an original and then made the appropriate revisions before reprinting the mylar for the glass. I could be wrong but I don't think any vector graphics were created.
IGT had issued some cease and desist orders to them, and may have taken other heavy handed steps so I doubt the scans are even in the wild.

I played around with creating my own glass images (my own graphics) and what I found is that printing white - was a very difficult proposition - you needed white background material and not print when you wanted white. I was using velum on a HP plotter but when it was backlit the grain of the material showed through and it was not of a quality that I was happy with.

[knagl]

The "bleeding pink grease" coming from the pull handle is likely a rubber bumper in there that is decomposing. It's a fairly common thing to see on old S+ machines. To the best of my understanding it is a piece of rubber designed to make the action of pulling the handle and it returning to its home position a more gentle operation instead of a metal-on-metal stop.

Congratulations on finding the source of your auto-play issue.

[Stayouttadabunker]

"switch for the arm that was connected wrong"

I too am happy your machine is working now, I don't understand exactly what you did to fix the problem - of it being in auto-play mode.



The way I understand how the sequence of machine play is....>>>

The arm lever switch must be opened momentarily AFTER a completed spin or game in order to play another game.

Otherwise the machine will just remain in limbo, waiting for data input.

A spin or lever handle held in a downward pressed position, making the switch stuck in a closed state, shouldn't make a machine "auto-play".



So my question I guess is, how was that lever switch wired exactly? Would you remember?

I'd like to try to enact the problem so I can understand how your S+ got put into an "Auto-Play" mode.

[knagl]

Mark, the wires were likely shorted together, the equivalent of holding down the Spin Reels button. The combination of that and inserting coins was enough to make it start a game once the maximum number of coins inserted was reached.

[Stayouttadabunker]

okay....not only that, on those older, smaller button switches, it's easy to mistakenly put the wire connector on the wrong tab.

Instead of the input data wire being on the NO tab, it's on the NC tab of the switch - effectively putting that line in a "closed" state.

I DO only now recall that I've actually once ran into this problem a long time ago.

A floor tech put  a wire connector that had fallen off back onto a button switch....but onto the wrong tab and we were getting complaints about an S+ eating up player's credits.....like it was on "auto-play"....I go "Naw! Can't be!!"
I go into the gameroom, checked out the wiring and noticed that one was different from the other's under the deck.
I swapped the wire connector over to another switch tab and the machine played normally.

[knagl]

Agreed that was likely the case -- when I said "shorted together" I should have been more clear that I was referring to the wires being connected together, not a situation where bare wires were exposed and touching.

[igtdanmark]

That was exactly the case, it was connected to NC on the switch on the arm. Working perfectly now, so the next step will be to reproduce the belly glass to make space for a bill acceptor

This is a great forum, thanks everybody for all the help! Already looking for the next IGT to buy, haha