Project machine. New here.

[Talarspeed]

      Hello!
 
I’m new to the world of slots. Just acquired an older machine from someone whose brother has spent time in the penitentiary.  Apparently, his time is going to be extended so the family sold me this machine for $50. It has been in storage for many years- not sure how many.
 
From reading the forums, I gather this to be an early S+. The interior is in bad shape with rust, but the exterior is good (except the right hand panel is missing a corner of laminate). The handle has surface rust (which I can fix).
 
Flipping the power on gives a “12” code which I understand to be a battery issue (not surprised here.)
 
I imagine that many here would scrap this machine for parts, but I see it as a project. My only question – how far down this rabbit hole am I going to go?
 
The main board is missing in the picture because I pulled it to replace the battery. I figured that this would be an easy and inexpensive first step.  It had to be ordered, so I’m going to take some things apart for cleaning.
 
The rust is bad. Looking online, I found this chassis with supplied power and harness. It “looks” identical to the one that I currently have.
 
http://www.worldwide-gaming.com/s/product_info.php?products_id=3844
 
Is the $200 worth it? I would have to confer that this is the correct part(s) for this IGT.  In the meantime, I’m going to power it up again after I install the battery to see the next error code I get.
 
Next issue: coin hopper.  I have no experience with these and I imagine that it would be better to replace this one. Not sure of the $ investment here.  I’m very good at taking things apart and putting them back together, but would want a guide on this device. Is there a detailed resource for this?  I do have a basic manual for the machine which includes the exploded diagram and parts list. 
 
Next: the missing reset switch.  There are some cut wires. Thinking about some type of internal switch, unless the key route is better. The empty hole is already there.
 
 
Final thoughts for now. I have experience working with old mechanical pinball machines from the 70’s.  I can take things apart, clean them well and get them back together. No problems soldering.
 
I would love all opinions! Thank you for your time!  Craig


Images:










 

[Shaggy]

Hey Craig, well you are right, it's an early model S+. My concern with a machine like that is, it looks like it's been underwater, well the bottom part anyway. The part you're looking at I believe is the correct piece for that machine. It looks the same to me anyway. I don't about your local laws of slot machine ownership but you'll likely have more money in it than you can buy an S+ for. You can do a search in the S+ forum about hoppers etc. but if it's been dunked, you're probably better off buying another. Try releasing the brake and see if you can move it. Hoppers aren't that expensive, shipping is because of their weight. It is possible that most of this rust is from condensation in a storage unit. Around my place that can happen if the concrete footings aren't below the frost line. If you have plenty of pockets and the will, then go for it. We'll help you with anything you need.  Welcome to NLG!   

Dave

[Toyguy]

Before investing a ton, or scrapping it for parts, I'd try replacing that battery and seeing if you can get it to boot.  If so, that would prove out the reel mechs and maybe the hopper.  As Shaggy said, you could also hold the hopper brake off by hand and see if it moves.  If so, the rust may simply need cosmetic attention.  If the motor is seized, you could take it apart or just source a new hopper.  A new jackpot reset switch is cheap and easy to install.


Keep us advised!  It's always fun watching these projects.

[Johnnyboy321]

ive got some extra parts if needed also id suggest dissasembling the hopper sanding the discs and adding wd40

[Talarspeed]

      I’m going to go ahead and start this as a project. Thank you so much for the advice so far. Even though I ordered a new battery for the current main board, I’m going to order the chassis as shown in the link from my first post.  The logic in doing this: I see that if I don’t that there might be many small problems to chase down (due to the amount of potential damage). Getting a new board, power supply and wire harness could eliminate many problems.
 
I still will have other problems to solve though. I see that one of the wires is unattached, as well as the door optic sensor. I will post more pictures later once I get through the holiday for the new few days.
 
Thank you for all the help thus far- I know I will need more.
 

[Shaggy]

Good for you. The chassis will be a good idea, mainly as the existing wiring could be potentially ruined. If you're going to do it, you'll probably be glad you went this way.

Dave

[Amechanic]

Go buy some CLR and use it on the rust. Scrape it first, then use the CLR. When done pickup some silver are aluminum color paint. There was a ad in the classified about two weeks back of a Vender parting out some S+ slots I believe in Vegas.

It was JJinLV. That’s there user name here.

[Talarspeed]

      Just wanted to give an update. First let me say Thanks to everyone’s replies for the suggestions. Everybody has been incredibly helpful on this board!I did end up buying an S2000 from RB to get a nice working machine. (This is going to be a birthday gift for my girlfriend.) 
 
I replaced the battery on the board and this cleared the 12 error. So- that is progress!
 
Notice the pictures: the optics have been cut and I have ordered new ones. But it got me thinking . . . would the cherry-switch bypass I see diagramed on the S2000 forum also work on this older S+?
 
Also reset key has been cut and removed (see picture). All that is left is some plastic housing.  What parts do I need to get this working?




 
Now- after power up.  I had a 61 code. Pressed the white button on the housing of the mainboard. Closed the door> The reels spun> no more 61 code. Actually the display is blank except for “0” credits. (Attached picture).
 
My next steps are fixing the optics and reset key. Is this logical?











 

[Amechanic]

I have not heard of any one hooking up the optics to the door switch on a S+. When replacing your door optics take not that one has a red & black wire, while the other is Red & white. These can’t be reversed or the game will not work. The optics and reset lock should be an easy find through a vender here. Just make sure what model game you have when ordering. You will need the optics to get past the 0 in your display. The games waiting for the door to close.

[knagl]

I never recommend bypassing the optics in an S+ machine.

[Talarspeed]

      An update: I have been busy this past week with family issues and now am finally getting a chance to work on this.
 
I installed door optics and a jackpot reset key.
Question: is there a correct polarity to attaching the wires to the terminals on the reset key? I couldn’t see any clear markings of distinction on the key-barrel-terminals.
 
Powering up goes through an initial spin resulting in “Winner Paid” and “Credits” fields being empty and “Coins Played” with 0 displayed.  Bottom aspect of candle flashes. (This is happening when door is fully closed and latched.)
 
There is a procedure in the FAQ about checking door optics involving hitting the white button a few times. This did not work- hitting the white button did nothing to the display.
 
Just for kicks, I turned the reset key and “Winner Paid” displayed “0020” and “Credits” displayed “7927”.  “Coins Played” alternated between 1 and 0.
 
I’m questioning the door optics . . . either not aligned or not working. (Door optics have the black and red wire.)


https://imgur.com/uzNHz0x


EDIT: Failed to mention that I placed a quarter in the coin comparitor. See image: is this the correct placement? Putting a coin in the slot results in quarter falling through.


https://imgur.com/6OF5wQF



 

[rokgpsman]

The 2 wires for the reset switch can be attached either way, doesn't matter.

It looks like the quarter is installed in the coin comparitor correctly. You can turn the coin comparitor sensitivity adjustment (small straight-slot screwdriver pot, located in lower right corner) all the way ccw (to the left). That will reduce nuisance coin rejections. However, that probably isn't why the machine is rejecting coins and returning them to the front tray. If the door optics aren't working correctly the machine won't do much. The machine has to know that the door is open or closed in order to do certain things. For example, it won't accept a coin or bill if it thinks the door is open.

So I'd make sure the door optics are working, then go from there.

Be sure you are pressing the right "White" button. There is a white TEST button inside the machine, it lets you enter the Setup menus and diagnostic tests. There is also a small white button (sometimes it isn't white) on the corner of the coin optic board just below the coin comparitor. This button is for adding test credits to the machine.

[Talarspeed]

The white button I'm pressing is on the main board. I went back and pressed this again, but held it down longer. There was a click and I was able to access the menu via the reset key. I made my way to the "13" screen with the alternating "0" and "1".


I also adjusted the sensitivity of the coin comparitor.  Dropping a coin in resulted in the coin going to the hopper and "1" displayed in coins played. I sent a second quarter and it went to the hopper with "2" displayed.


Nothing happened on hitting the spin reels button. As a matter of fact, they feel "dead"; no spring in "Bet One Credit". "Bet Max Credits" has some play.
 
I'm going to look at the setup and buttons on the inside of door.


Anything else I should be looking for?


Thank you all so much for your help so far!

[rokgpsman]

That's progress, sounds like the machine is accepting coins and awarding credits for each coin. Since your machine is a 2 coin multiplier game (2 coins max per play) then it won't accept more than 2 coins, after that you have to spin. If you insert a 3rd coin it will be rejected and returned to the coin tray. If the bill validator is working and the machine has credit mode enabled you will be able to insert bills and get extra credits added to the credit meter. But with coins you can only insert 1 or 2, then spin. If you have credits on the machine from winning spins or from inserting bills then you don't have to insert more coins, you can play by using your credits. But you are still limited to a max bet of 2 credits per spin.

Did anyone mention checking for the infamous burned power supply connector on the motherboard? On a lot of older S+ machines the power supply cable that plugs into the motherboard will have a burned contact, that makes the power going to essential stuff intermittent. The motherboard is the circuit board mounted horizontally on the bottom floor of the machine, the mpu board plug vertically into the motherboard. If you haven't checked this motherboard power supply connector that's something easy and smart to do. Unplug the connector from the motherboard and check the backside also.

That lower cabinet chassis from World Wide Gaming might be an idea to look into, that would not only get an improvement in appearance but you'd also get a good set of wiring down there. But WWG is generally considered one of the highest cost places to get slot machine parts. Before buying from WWG I'd check on what the same part would cost from one of the NLG sponsors or other parts folks. Just make a fresh WTB (WantToBuy) post stating what you want, one of the NLG staff will get it moved to the Classified Ads area. This is a free service.

[rokgpsman]

.....Nothing happened on hitting the spin reels button. As a matter of fact, they feel "dead"; no spring in "Bet One Credit". "Bet Max Credits" has some play......

Some of your photos show a lot of rust on the metal surfaces of the machine, inside and out, even on the pull handle. It almost certainly has been underwater or heavily rained on. That can play havoc with electrical connectors, they corrode and don't make good contact. You can disconnect a connector and look carefully at the electrical contacts (male and female pins), see if they are chalky or dull colored, or worse, see if they have rust.  I don't want to be a wet blanket, but I'd also hate to see you spend a lot of time, effort and money on a lost cause. Any of us here that have seen how difficult it is to get a flooded machine running again reliably know the drill and we'd be irresponsible to not point it out to you. Naturally the decision is yours, but I'd recommend you consider looking for another machine in good condition. You can salvage some parts from this one that are not damaged, like the glass and maybe other items, to sell or use for parts on a second machine if you got another S+. I don't know what you paid for this machine, hopefully it wasn't a whole lot. If you've looked at some of the Classified Ads here on NLG you've seen that working S2000 machines in good or better condition sell for as low as $250. If you decide to give repairing this machine a shot we'll give you as much help as possible. Just wanted you to be aware that it may be challenging and you don't want to end up spending $500 on repairs to it.

Your pushbuttons should have a springy feel and pop back up after you press them. Underneath the pushbutton there is a switch that activates when the button is pressed. Inside or underneath the pushbutton is a spring that pushes the button back upward. When you have credits on the machine from inserting a coin (or by pressing on the small test button on the coin optic board) then pressing the Bet 1 button should bet a credit and pressing the Spin button should spin the reels.

When the machine is first powered ON do the reels spin and initialize to their starting position?

The white TEST button that gets you into the Setup/Diagnostic menus is circled in red below. If pressing it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't unless you press harder that tells you that the internal contacts of the white pushbutton switch are likely corroded & intermittent. And that means other electrical parts in the machine could be in a similar condition.

[Talarspeed]

      I appreciate all the advice! I don’t have much tied into this project financially. Time is the bigger commitment which I don’t mind because I see this as an educational piece.  I did get a nice S2000 from RB, so that keeps me going with a working game. (Actually, it is my girlfriends.)
 
My goal was to see if this would get running with minimal dollars spent.  If I got it close to working, then I was going to take it apart and clean it up. I didn’t want to spend too much time or money on it if was COMPLETELY trashed.  My logic might be backwards, but I want to that it has potential before I completely dismantle it (the goal being to learn about the parts).
 
The reels do spin in the initial power on.
 
Someone PM’ed me regarding the cost with World Wide Gaming and I appreciate the advice. The good thing about the chassis kit is that it is complete with boards, power and harness. The bad- the cost! That is a lot to spend on a machine that is a maybe with potential problems elsewhere. I have the strong feeling that hopper will be the thing that will need replacing.
 
My next step is to check the buttons at the door. Then I’m going to pull everything from the cabinet. I need to see the condition of things at the back with the idea of piecing together anything that needs replacing. I will also see how bad the damage is back there. Either way, I will learn a lot in the process.


EDIT: Well this is progress . . .

<a href="http://youtu.be/pVpPTQI2gA8" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://youtu.be/pVpPTQI2gA8</a>

 

[knagl]

In your video it appears your machine is working.  What (if any) are your current issues?

Also, Worldwide Gaming is the worst and they're overpriced on everything.  If you need parts, start with any of the vendors who frequent this site, or post a "WTB" (Want To Buy) ad in the classifieds section.

[Talarspeed]

I have it running basically, but am running into small problems. I plan on making separate posts for each type of problem.

[Amechanic]

 I think Jim at Midwest Slots can hook you up with deck buttons, a pull handle and plastic cover. He should have the replacement bulbs for your deck buttons too. You might want to include a picture or your buttons to get the correct style.

[Shaggy]

I think you're doing great.   

Dave