Author Topic: Which Board Do I Have? (Read 6879 times)

mitchel6 · « **on:** November 30, 2014, 04:49:59 PM »

Can someone help me determine which board I have. I think the sticker is under the MM board. I guess I could take it off. Trying to decide which way to go on getting the humming speakers fixed. Resistors or new board.

Got this slot a while back and now deciding on tinkering with it. First is the humming speakers and then increase the odds. If I have been reading correctly I can use the 31 key chip to increase the odds with this board?

Thanks in advance?

Mitch

rickhunter · « **Reply #1 on:** November 30, 2014, 05:16:22 PM »

Yes it's under the MMlite board. You should remove the green battery while you are at it.

Buzz · « **Reply #2 on:** November 30, 2014, 05:17:45 PM »

I won't swear to this but I think the rule of thumb is, if you have White simm sockets you have a 502, black simm sockets is a 504 ( yours are white ) But come on now, two littls bitty screws and the MM II board lifts off. Me I never put those two screws back in.

Retro tech repair · « **Reply #3 on:** November 30, 2014, 05:50:57 PM »

i seem to remember the green wire going from u14 to e700 missing on some boards, but it could have been an early 500. to be able to tell exact board you need to be able to see the label and reel drivers. i think you are correct on the simm sockets.

mitchel6 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 30, 2014, 06:09:25 PM »

Is there a trick to unscrew them? They are in there really good. Both screws are starting to strip.

Thanks

Retro tech repair · « **Reply #5 on:** November 30, 2014, 06:30:52 PM »

i have never seen them that hard to get off before in fact most the time the machines i work on the screws are missing.

RB · « **Reply #6 on:** November 30, 2014, 06:48:35 PM »

That is a 502 Board. A key 31 or 45 (recommended) will work. Actually I would change the SG chips to SG000363. 523s are great on 1270 enhanced boards but suck on 50X boards. If you wish to get rid of your static, humm a 504B board is way better when using a MM Lite & SIMM.

mitchel6 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 30, 2014, 06:57:28 PM »

Thanks, the screws are on there for good. I stripped both trying to get them off. I have a buddy who works on TV's and electronics for a living, I will take it to him to take them off. He has some "tricks/equipment" to remove them.

Tell me what would change with the 363's? And what would be different with the 504b board, besides the humming?

Thanks,

Buzz · « **Reply #8 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:19:18 PM »

Mitch Because your new here I'm going to try my damnest not to piss you off. be aware if I do you won't be the first or the last.

Option 1 If this was happening to me the first thing I would do is shit can the screw driver I was using and go buy a better screw driver. The tools Lowe's sell are not the best but they aren't all that bad. Now with my brand new super duper screw driver I would place the tray onto something solid. garage floor if nothing else. With the screw driver inserted in the slots of the screw smack the handle of the screw driver down into the screw using a hammer. With the tray still on the floor, bare down on the screw driver at the same time turn the screw counter clock wise, it should break loose.

Option 2 Drill out the center of the screw.

Option 3 If all else fails, using a pair of dikes ( wire cutters) cut the MM II sound board next to the screws. I just looked at a board and there are NO traces within 3/8 of a inch of the screws. I really don't want you to use option 3

Option 4 GOOD LUCK

Let me explane, those two screws that are giving you a hard time screw into a small stand that screws into the tray.

RB · « **Reply #9 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:20:08 PM »

The 504B will look almost the same & is a direct swap. It will cut the static & humm to a minimum. Another option is to remove the SIMM & MM Lite from your 502 & use the Legacy sound. That will eliminate your static but boring sound. There's probably people who will dispute this but twice I have tried SG523s from an enhanced board on a 504B. The game seems to hardly pay out. It clicks off the credits slower & adds them up slower as well especially noticeable if you are NOT using a SIMM. Put 363s back in & it's a different game. 363s are the most widely recommended SGs for 50x boards unless you have a game that requires a special SG pair such as Super Spin Sizzling 7s.

mitchel6 · « **Reply #10 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:56:59 PM »

I was already thinking about option three. I have some good screw drivers but I started with a crappy small one, I wasn't expecting them to be super glued on.

The game does seem really stingy. That is why I am thinking of changing the odds. Will I be able to do that with the 31 Key Chip?

I will order the 363's and probably the 504b(If I can get the MM Lite off to transfer to the 504b.

Is there a 504 and a 504b? I don't want to order the wrong one.

Thanks, again

RB · « **Reply #11 on:** November 30, 2014, 09:00:16 PM »

504 boards all are Rev B. I repeat a Key 31 will work. If you have one, that's fine. If you're buying one, get a 45 as it will do everything a 31 will & more. You can transfer yor MM Lite to the 504 board.

Buzz · « **Reply #12 on:** November 30, 2014, 09:30:45 PM »

Simple truth is a 504 won't do a damn thing a 502 will do except the 504 will not have the humm. I would suggest before you order a 504 go down to Radio Shack and pick up a package of 22 ohm resistors and a package of shrink tube. The cost of the resistors is about a buck. Solder one in each of the three white ( with a stripe) wires that go to the speakers. Now if you just can't stand the sounds your hearing order a 504.

I've never ran across one but it's my understanding there is a few game themes out there that a Key 31 will not work on. Your 10 Times Gold 2 coin isn't one of them. I've cleared and Keyed about 200 S 2000 in the last few years and I use nothing but a Clear 97 and a Key 31, theres folks that are going to tell you to use a Key 45 and a Clear 224. I'm tired of the pissing match of which clear and key chips to use. I'm not bad mouthing them for using what works for them, the ones I use clears a machine and takes me to Key menu, that's all you can ask of a chip. Oh I have the files for a Key 45 and a Clear 224 but I won't program they into a chip. Now can you improve on what works.

CVslots · « **Reply #13 on:** December 01, 2014, 10:03:25 AM »

Quote from: Buzz on November 30, 2014, 09:30:45 PM

Solder one in each of the three white ( with a stripe) wires that go to the speakers.

I don't even solder them...I just twist them together in-line and wrap with some black tape!

mitchel6 · « **Reply #14 on:** December 01, 2014, 06:35:37 PM »

Put the 22 ohm resistors in today. You can still hear a little buzzing when you put your ear up to the speaker, but nothing like before. I can live with that.

Thanks again.

CVslots · « **Reply #15 on:** December 01, 2014, 08:30:00 PM »

Good to hear!

cowboygames · « **Reply #16 on:** December 01, 2014, 08:46:23 PM »

I actually had a board tagged as a 504A, I think that's what the 502 was labelled as after a factory upgrade to address the static issue in the speakers. Still had the problem

Retro tech repair · « **Reply #17 on:** December 01, 2014, 08:55:33 PM »

to those that have done the resistor mod what wattage do you use and how hot do they get.

rickhunter · « **Reply #18 on:** December 01, 2014, 11:31:32 PM »

Just curious with all the static solutions, why isn't the enhanced board never given much love as a solution? Yes, you do have to change the backplane and get a new board, but there is absolutely no hum whatsoever using the enhanced board. I personally just moved all my machines to enhanced boards, am I missing something? Why does everybody insist on staying with the 50x series?

Yoeddy1 · « **Reply #19 on:** December 02, 2014, 01:30:54 AM »

Quote from: rickhunter on December 01, 2014, 11:31:32 PM

Just curious with all the static solutions, why isn't the enhanced board never given much love as a solution? Yes, you do have to change the backplane and get a new board, but there is absolutely no hum whatsoever using the enhanced board. I personally just moved all my machines to enhanced boards, am I missing something? Why does everybody insist on staying with the 50x series?

Probably due to additional time and cost of having to swap out the backplane in addition to the MPU. I'm fine with a 504B. Enhanced requires the green NiCad battery too right?

Jason

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Author Topic: Which Board Do I Have? (Read 6879 times)