I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.

Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0

Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>

Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?

Well, that sucks, I had no idea how fragile those were, WOW! I understand fully why they would snap, I have worked on 1950 radios and sometimes the wiring, plastic, just crumbles. Lesson learned for me. 

What demented mind at IGT would think of such a crazy idea. 

I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.

Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0

Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>

Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?

If its not the optics themselves follow the wire..... something in the optic circuit is disconnecting, and from the information provided it seems to be related to the physical movement of the handle and/or subsequent vibrations into the rest of the machine that is causing the disconnect to happen. It issue doesn't have to be at the optic end and by using two different sets of optics with different means to couple the optics you have pretty much ruled that end of the problem out.

 

I agree with this 100%. If you have two sets of optics and the exact same thing is happening with both of them, it's somewhere else in the circuit that the issue is cropping up when the machine is vibrated.

Sacrificing my pride here - for some unknown reason, I totally spaced out that there is a second slot for the clear CF. I was removing the game CF and replacing with the clear CF... DOH. Once I remembered that there was a second slot for the clear, all was well again. Explaining here so that the poor next guy doesn't make the same mistake. This time I've taken the time to document the process as well as taking pictures of all of my precious setting and any other tips to future self.

Thanks for reaching out.

Is there any one here who has the treasure wheel slot machine ,if so can u take pics of the reset menu wires from inside the machine so I can wire in a new switch and a reset button please