below is the picture you posted on pennyarcade.  Note the numbers under/over the solder lugs.  You don't have lugs at positions 4,6 and 8

I'm guessing lugs 1,3,5 are the primary winding.  Which lugs you use/jumper depends on your input power, which for you is 230V.  If you remove the jumper between lugs 1,3 and measure the resistance between 1-3, 1-5, and 3-5, if 1-3 and 3-5 is the same and 1/2 the resistance of 1-5, then you'd likely put your mains wires on lugs 1 and 5 and lug 3 would be the motor common wire.

if lugs 1-3 measures no resistance, then I guessed wrong and you'll have to measure the resistance of all the combinations of lugs to get a better guess.

I haven't seen a schematic for a jennings.  The diagram in the patent application is generic and incomplete for an actual machine.

with the transformer out of the game, you should be able to figure out how to connect your 230V to get 115V, 6V and 50V on various transformer lugs.

the next step would be how to connect those lugs to the fuses and the neutrals.   The 115V neutral is probably one of the wire colors on the hopper motor, and some manufactures used yellow for the 6V/50V neutral.

if you want to email highest possible resolution pictures of your fuse block/wiring, the plugs/wiring and the hopper wiring to slotpics@cdyn.com, I'll stick them on the website with the pdf so people can take a look.

I don't want this to be a novel but it sounds like you are interested in understanding a little more. I am not a trained tech, this is just what I have learned from reading the 1492 manual. 

I think those readings look fine, all you are looking for is a dead short.  If you look at the schematic of a 5184 it's 3 or 4 different circuits that monitor inputs which trigger an on/off state for power throughput. When the IC blows due to a bad situation it sometimes shorts one of those circuits or blows open. Usually when that happens you will find a diode or flyback with a hole blown in it. I just happen to know that I expect the ones I listed to read as a diode...if they don't something is wrong.  Same with the vertical IC, sometimes when they expire they short out. I have had both of these IC's pass a diode test but turn out bad. Same with voltage regulators, sometimes they test fine but they don't regulate. You learn how to watch for indicators.

Don't get too hung up on the details of each pin reading, you are really only looking for dead shorts at this point.

Do a diode test on the HOT (304), it should read as a diode from middle to each outside pin (.045 to .065-ish), just so long as it isn't a dead short. If it shorts from middle to either outside pin it's bad.

Still a chance the flyback is bad and there isn't any way to test that. The only option is to swap a known good one in. This flyback has a coil that sends voltage back to 5184 basically saying "I'm alive", I think it's pin 14 and if the voltage is too high it shuts down (Xray protection?) or if there is nothing for a period of time it shuts down. Unlike some other boards you cannot power this board without a flyback unless you use the low voltage bypass method covered in the manual.

Chris