Author Topic: Money Honey 742A-1G (Read 16998 times)

DavidLee · « **Reply #40 on:** September 09, 2016, 09:23:32 AM »

Another low tech test. Play the machine mechanically by holding the handle release stop back.
Then pull the handle, sometimes this resets the machine if for some reason it didn't complete the previous cycle. I do this on my own machines, but use your own judgement on your machine as the machine is in a state of limbo.

Bally Bill · « **Reply #41 on:** September 09, 2016, 11:52:01 AM »

yes I cycled the reels and have full contact on the B switch (closed) as it travels along the ramp but still no power to the coin lockout, seems like the hopper is the problem because the winner paid light tends to go dim and then come back. I read Old Reno's post on the coin lockout and maybe it could be coin relay switch is staying open? I have my VOM set to ohms but I dont see any reading when I put the negative lead to the case and the positive lead to the lockout coil wires behind the coin mechanism. I checked all the Beua plug connection wires on hopper and they seem to be OK...was working great for 2 days so I must be over looking something simple

jimliner · « **Reply #42 on:** September 09, 2016, 01:40:45 PM »

I probably would not check any circuit to the case. Until reading O'Renos "checking for shorts". Recheck fuses.

There are 5 switches I would check are closed when cycle is over, since this is a single coin slot. To energize coin lockout coil.

Coin relay swt 31 / 25 wires.
Dashpot swt 25 /57 wires.
Payout relay swt 57 / 60 wires, hopper.
C1 swt 60 / 91 wires.
"A" swt 91 / 74 wires.

Jim

Bally Bill · « **Reply #43 on:** September 09, 2016, 11:13:03 PM »

ok let me back track to the Old Reno blogs and confirm the 5 switches are cycled closed- Thank you Jim

OldReno · « **Reply #44 on:** September 10, 2016, 10:23:32 AM »

Please remember these are all separate circuits here. The coin lockout coil is separate from the hopper reset circuit. They are independent. For example, the winner paid lite is a 6v line and it is turned off when the 50v hopper reset coil physically moves a pawl that patches open the winner paid lite circuit. They are only related physically not electrically. Your hopper reset only goes through the 'B' switch and the hopper zero switch. You have multiple problems. Fix one first then go to the next.
Your winner paid lite dimming indicates something is momentarily shorting to case probably Or that your hopper reset coil is fried. Also lights can dim momentarily if your large spring attached to the clock variator touches to the stack of C switches when reels are indexing. Push back on your variator and look in to see if the spring is touching any switches. The coin lockout coil not working is probably a different problem.
Keep at it and keep us posted.
You can try jumpering your hopper reset coil to verify it works.
Good job so far!

DavidLee · « **Reply #45 on:** September 10, 2016, 06:53:33 PM »

Bill,

Prior to the machine malfunction did you have a component out for cleaning?

Regarding the dimming bulbs. The sockets in these machines over time get a little corroded.
Causing the lights to be dim and or flicker on and off.

To achieve a better connection add a thin puddle of solder to the side of the brass casing.
Also solder can be added to the the bottom foot contact.
Solder is easily filed if the fit becomes to tight.

Did this awhile back on the dimmer bulbs in a machine and it improved the brightness to 100%

OldReno · « **Reply #46 on:** September 10, 2016, 08:05:00 PM »

Also it helps to briskly rub the base of your bulb on your Levi's

Bally Bill · « **Reply #47 on:** September 11, 2016, 01:06:29 PM »

Ok I started over and checked the 5 switches AND the fuses again per Jims reply and found that the 3amp/50 volt was shot. I replaced the fuse and the machine is taking coins but the payouts are off by 1 and the winner light goes off then back on right after the 3rd reel kicks in?...going to start over and recheck the payout board reset relay and Zero switch. Light bulb is trying to light up so maybe this needs to get some solder to correct....sorry for the late reply's had to stay late and get the CAF warbirds ready for Reno Air races next week. Thanks for all the help so far guys!!

OldReno · « **Reply #48 on:** September 11, 2016, 01:30:20 PM »

Good job so far. You might want to adjust your 'B' switch so that it stays closed a little bit longer. This will ensure that the hopper reset solenoid has enough time to fully fire and latch out the linkage. That should allow your winner paid light to turn off.
Ps please tell those guys not to buzz our house during the races...?

jimliner · « **Reply #49 on:** September 11, 2016, 01:41:51 PM »

Good work.

Early post you said that you checked both sides of the lock out coil to the case. That is a direct short if live and will pop fuse if its not blown already.

Keep at it.

Jim

Bally Bill · « **Reply #50 on:** September 11, 2016, 02:03:26 PM »

thanks for the support! I adjust the scrambler arm to it longest length and and hold the fan and watch the travel on the ramp? after I adjust the B switch do I have to reset the zero switch also? CAF is flying in 4 warbirds for static display only-no racing..who doesn't like the sound of a 2000 HP Pratt & Whitney R-2800 two-row radial engine? better than the Blue Angel jets this year!

jimliner · « **Reply #51 on:** September 11, 2016, 02:12:45 PM »

Favorite has always been the Corsair. Finally got to see and hear one up close, outside Chicago a couple years ago. We were close ( 50 ft. ) by as it taxi'd and throttle up to take off. Wow. Lots of power.

jimliner · « **Reply #52 on:** September 11, 2016, 02:15:30 PM »

By the way, that is one clean machine.

Bally Bill · « **Reply #53 on:** September 11, 2016, 03:05:24 PM »

Working on hopper now and it seems to step correctly and returns without any shutter. Reset Zero Switch AND added this cut piece of plastic tubing to keep the contact closed (Old Reno posted Zero Switch can stay closed all the time) Payouts are correct now and I hope it sticks, Payout lite is still on but I can see why this happens by watching the B-Switch during the play cycle. Fixed the 2 bulbs-1 with solder and the other with my Levis pants! ok now to get that B switch to work...Jim my favorite Warbirds are the Grumman Hellcat, Bearcat and the P51 Mustang...Corsair is a large warbird up close and they have raced them at Reno and won in the past!

DavidLee · « **Reply #54 on:** September 11, 2016, 03:31:48 PM »

Around town transportation.

Bally Bill · « **Reply #55 on:** September 11, 2016, 03:38:15 PM »

I thought I saw your ride at the airshow...

Bally Bill · « **Reply #56 on:** September 11, 2016, 04:10:16 PM »

I adjusted the B switch link and stud assembly via the Ratchet to the shortest and longest throw with no success BUT as I play more the winner light goes off and stays off until the next win and then stays on for about 10-15 pulls and the light goes out again...sticky contact on B switch or payout relay?

DavidLee · « **Reply #57 on:** September 11, 2016, 04:24:01 PM »

Contacts may need to be cleaned or adjusted. Have a couple of machines that take about 15 minutes to warm up. Coin accepted light won't light and win meter doesn't reset, but after playing for awhile things start to work properly. Working on the 785 it wouldn't pay every time. Just gave the reels a little movement and hopper would start running. Indicating wipers need to be cleaned.

Bill you might of seen me riding to Venture on the back roads past the Airport.

Bally Bill · « **Reply #58 on:** September 11, 2016, 04:32:00 PM »

Yes I have cleaned all the contacts on all the switches via Plain printer paper and solvent, used this item to clean the wiper and payout boards...let me keep on playing and see what happens...Come to the CAF museum next time your on those back roads around the airport and I will give you a warbird tour!

jimliner · « **Reply #59 on:** September 11, 2016, 04:43:44 PM »

Two switches on hopper for 742 for winner paid lite. Clean both and check for continuity across switches. Pawl switch, 30 / 91 wires and payout relay switch with 91 / 48 wires. Thats all for winner paid lite circuit.

I am thinking 48 wire leaves hopper through beau plug so clean its male beau plug. To find connect one lead from meter to 48 wire at payout relay switch and check each male plug on hopper.

Unplug while checking.

Jim

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Author Topic: Money Honey 742A-1G (Read 16998 times)