Bally E-2000 Issues need help

[T-Rav1980]

In advance, thank you for any help/suggestions that you may have. I am minimally proficient with electronics (still learning).

I have a bally e-2000 5 coin machine that is giving me issues.

This machine was working about 5 years ago perfectly. My game room got flooded recently and had about 6 inches of water in the bottom of the machine (long story).

Anyways, when got everything completely dried and cleaned, I booted the machine up and got some smoke.  I found that the hopper fuse had blown and also some resistors burned up on the hopper board. I replaced the resistors and the fuse (as well as a fuse blown in the fuse block 8 amp power supply fuse). I reinstalled everything and the machine was working great until I hit a payout. It instantly went dead, giving a 31 code (jammed hopper). I took the hopper out and the hopper board was a mess, actually burned up the electric traces as well as other components. Instead of replacing everything one by one, I ordered a new hopper and board from ebay (everything looks good). I put in the machine and booted up, still nothing.

I've visually inspected all of the other board and don't see anything burned up. All of the 120v lights work, the displays and panel lights work. I get 7.5 and 10 volts on the power supply board but no 5 volt on the test points. The weird thing is is that I get 5 volts on the IO board. The payout meter reads 9999 without the hopper installed, 5555 with it installed, and 1111 when I turn the key. The test button on the hopper gives me a 000006 error code. I am also not getting a red light on the coin comparitor. I am thinking that this is either a power supply board or transformer issue.

Any ideas? Also does anyone know of the purpose of the Guardian relays behind the hopper? Could the 6v relay be bad?

[Badbaud]

6 is usually a power supply issue. We do sell replacements on our EBAY store plus a re-engineered updated power supply for the E-Series.

[T-Rav1980]

Hi Badbaud, Is that the K-Lar power supply? I was thinking about getting one but for 110$ I wanted to be sure that was the problem first. I think the coin comparitor runs on 24v dc, am I correct? Does that power come from the IO board or directly from the power supply or transformer?

Thanks for the reply.

[T-Rav1980]

So I've replaced the power supply with the new k-lar model, replaced the hopper and hopper board, replaced the transformer and all of the relays (everything on the bottom of the machine basically). All fuses are good. Now I am able to scroll through the tests but they don't actually do anything. For example I run the lamp test and it scrolls through all of the different lamps, but the lamps do not light. The reel test doesn't show anything even when I spin the reels. The hopper test just displays 32, doesn't actually engage the hopper. The biggest issue I see so far is I am not getting any power to the coin comparator. Since the machine is running through the tests that tells me that the main board is probably ok.

Any tests you think I should do?

What do you think? Am I looking at replacing the IO board? Does anyone know where I can find a replacement IO board?

[crayw]

Check power going to the io board. Check connectors at the io board. Check the ribbon cable and make sure it's plugged in correctly on both ends.

I have some io boards

[T-Rav1980]

Thanks Crayw, I have checked the voltage at the board and am getting 5v like before. I reseated all of the connections and looked over the board real well and didn't see anything burned up.

Any idea where the power comes from to drive the coin comparator? I have looked at all of the manuals and don't see anything in the schematics that identifies it. The wiring is really tight and without taking everything apart, it looks like the orange wire goes to the IO board. Is this right? How is it getting 24v? from a board that only has 5v running to it. So confused. Is there another transformer that I need to be looking at for the 24v?

How can I get an IO board from you? Do you have any mpu boards? The game is a 2240-136

I am committed to getting this POS running even if I have to replace everything electrical.

Thanks for the help.

[Badbaud]

If you have a comparator it's 24V comes from a small transformer mounted on the door.
Non comparator games don't have that transformer.
A comparator MAY be used to only set the coin in sized coin and no power is applied to the comparator, the coin simply falls through to the coin switch which gives the game a coin in signal.

[T-Rav1980]

Thanks badbaud, that is good information, I will check it out and see if I am getting voltage there.

Since you seem to be very knowledgeable about these machines, what would you do next? Replace the IO board or do you think this may be a mainboard issue?

[Badbaud]

Random 4x codes can be caused by bad pins to the reel decoder board or a pin was missed when plugging a connector to it or a reel reader card, check those connections.
The only other reel related problem is a mushy kick or arm switch on the side of the reel mech causing random reel errors.

[T-Rav1980]

Badbaud, I have worked on the reel reader card when I got the machine originally, I have replaced the U3 chip, and everything was working, haven't touched it since, so I am pretty sure that isn't the issue. I am not getting 4x codes at all. I am not getting anything (blank) when I run the reel reader test. I can run through the tests, but its like nothing is responding to the tests from the hopper test switch (MPU?). The only error code I am getting now when I turn the key is a 32..2 code. 

Before, I could run the test (for example the lamp test) and all the lamps would light as it cycled through the test, but now even though it is cycling through nothing is happening.

[Badbaud]

Can you do a test 4, hopper test?

Before the game can come to life you usually have to press and hold in the left hopper button (reset) for 3 seconds then release it and tap the right hopper button (test) once.
There should be a resounding CLUNK indicating the game is ready to play.
If you don't hear a CLUNK this means the game is not seeing 50VAC. Check the 50VAC fuse and holder for defects or a dead fuse.
Your 32 error is normally related to a hopper error. Make sure the hopper switch is poised on the off position and turns on when you pass a coin through it raising the roller up and toggling the coin out switch on the hopper.

[T-Rav1980]

Ok, did some more testing. I can do a test 4 but it doesn't do anything and has 0000 in the display.

I tested all the fuses- they all ohm out. I took the fuses out and tested the voltage on the holders and heres what I got.
Fuse 1: 8.7v
Fuse 2: 6.8v
Fuse 3: 6.6v
Fuse 4: 32.1v
Fuse 5: 8.0v
Fuse 6: 105v

I also tested the transformer and had 60v on one of the leads. (Not sure which pins supply which voltage so it was kinda a crap shoot. (It should work, I just replaced it, eventhough I think the old one was probably fine in retrospect.)

So I am getting power everywhere according to the fuse block, but still no power to the coin comparator.

I hold the reset button for 3 seconds and then the test, nothing.

Any other ideas? Anyone wanna buy some E2000 parts LOL 

[T-Rav1980]

So I have replaced the IO board and bam almost everything is working now. All tests are working (Lights, selenoids, hopper, etc) all except the reel reader test. When I first got this machine a long time ago, I had an issue with the decoder board (inconsistent readings) and had a friend replace the chips on it, so I dont think that is the issue. Ugh so close to getting this one back to life. I have so many known good parts at this point, I am thinking about scrapping it out on ebay just to recoup my money that I have spent recently.

I did also try replacing the MPU board, but the board that I bought was bad, giving me only more errors than before.

Any ideas anyone, anyone need known good spare parts?