Re: Bally 831 JPO Payout problem

[The Fatman]

I think the old style bakelites are better, but there sure are a lot more of the plastic ones around..one little trick I learned on these was to take a small needle file(flat) and dress the top of the coil and the the underside of the hold-down plate..just enough to make the plate sit flat on both of the ears of the coil..I take the spring off and check or change it too..weak springs will slow the contacts breaking, and that's what causes the burn marks and distorted plastic slits...a que-tip and some grease/Vaseline on the pivot points will quiet a buzzing coil sometimes.

 



I have been using Vaseline on old mechanical slots for years, doesn't harden like most white lithium grease does .... I agree with that fully.
Dave F

[OldReno]

Zinda,
sounds like a good fix.  Is it working ok?
Adjusting switches is a fine art, and always remember to look for the 'push' when they make contact.
I usually try to adjust the static blades (smaller ones) first, and then if that doesnt' work will adjust the actuators, however when you do that you have to readjust the static blades.
It's all good.
I'd spend more time here folks, but am working hard on some solar stuff right now.  It'll be over in a week or so.... Thanks.

[zinda]

Zinda,
sounds like a good fix.  Is it working ok?
Adjusting switches is a fine art, and always remember to look for the 'push' when they make contact.
I usually try to adjust the static blades (smaller ones) first, and then if that doesnt' work will adjust the actuators, however when you do that you have to readjust the static blades.
It's all good.
I'd spend more time here folks, but am working hard on some solar stuff right now.  It'll be over in a week or so.... Thanks.

Still working perfectly, haven't had to do anything since I rebuilt the sir prize unit. Best machine I own now. As long as you don't overload any contacts those plastic will work just as good, most don't think about the current draw and the heat causing the problems.

[OldReno]

When we would test machines before putting them on the floor, we would check all pays.
Of course, after some time of checking pays, the payout relay and assembly gets quite hot.
So, we would give it a rest from time to time, and IMHO this helped keep the plastic from melting by hot contacts.
And then we found faster ways to check pays, e.g. pulling out hopper before reel spin (and pay setup) so it doesn't reset every time.
That way progressively higher pays will check out fine, without having to start from zero everytime.
E.G., check a 100 pay, then a 200 pay.  If you pull hopper, you only need another 100 coins to check, not 200.
Hope that makes sense?

[zinda]

When we would test machines before putting them on the floor, we would check all pays.
Of course, after some time of checking pays, the payout relay and assembly gets quite hot.
So, we would give it a rest from time to time, and IMHO this helped keep the plastic from melting by hot contacts.
And then we found faster ways to check pays, e.g. pulling out hopper before reel spin (and pay setup) so it doesn't reset every time.
That way progressively higher pays will check out fine, without having to start from zero everytime.
E.G., check a 100 pay, then a 200 pay.  If you pull hopper, you only need another 100 coins to check, not 200.
Hope that makes sense?

Makes good sense, how many 200 coin pays are going to happen in regular play anyway, check it 2 times and if it isn't hot it should be good to go. I just held the payout switch down and let it spit out coins till the hopper was empty, then temped the contact with the hopper removed from the machine right after testing. Anything less than 150F should be OK. Mine are about ambient +10 so that's just about 150F here in Phoenix!