Ok, I'm going to post my journey just in case it helps someone else.
I desoldered the battery and re-cleaned the lands and the board. I spent some time with a tester to figure out where on the board I could measure the battery connections.
For the positive side I found that both R13 and R22 closest to the battery had continuity.
For the negative side I found that C20 farthest from the battery had continuity.
That suggests that a good solder should show about 3v between R13/R22 and C20 (indicating that the battery was actually feeding power to the components)
I tested the new battery and got 2.98v (close enough)
I decided to bend the battery pins down this time and soldered both to the back of the board. Testing R13 to C20 got 2.83v
I put the board back and got a fault screen. Turn the key and got the reset screen. Reset the board and IT WORKED
These were my worst looking solders, but if it works I'll take it.
Here is a pic showing were to test and my terrible solder job:
https://i.imgur.com/ptQ4Ksa.jpg