Bally 1114 full restoration

[David Walz]

Belly assembly.

Normally I would never paint this, however the steel was really bad and needed some protection.

[David Walz]

Working on the coin assembly on the door.

[David Walz]

More photos of the coin assembly.

[David Walz]

I just received in the mail the fuses, light covers, bulbs. That helped out a lot.

[David Walz]

I'm trying to locate parts for the chime. 

[David Walz]

Reset meter installed.

[David Walz]

Well, the electrical is up and running. I checked the solenoid, all of them are working, so far. I need to put more work on the hopper. Actually, this is a milestone, a Bally slot machine brought back from being found on the road dead. The transformer, electrical wiring, light sockets, are working, that says a lot about this machine.

[David Walz]

hopper cutoff wiring that is visible in the pic looks ok.

where is the 1N4004 (or 1N4007) diode?  Your drawing shows 2 resistors?

verify the cap is installed the right way ... the minus end should be attached to wire 70.  Unfortunately, there's no standard that says the crimp in the can is at the plus or minus end of a radial cap, so you have to look at the markings on the can.

Ordered up the 1N4007 diode.

This is what I came up with for installing it.

[David Walz]

One piece at a time. I got rid of the old coin micro switch that was buggered up, finally I have the new one.   

Doesn't even look like the disaster when it first came into the shop.

[wolftalk]

hopper cutoff wiring that is visible in the pic looks ok.

where is the 1N4004 (or 1N4007) diode?  Your drawing shows 2 resistors?

verify the cap is installed the right way ... the minus end should be attached to wire 70.  Unfortunately, there's no standard that says the crimp in the can is at the plus or minus end of a radial cap, so you have to look at the markings on the can.

Ordered up the 1N4007 diode.

This is what I came up with for installing it.

oops ... nope.  See schem and patched up diagram below. 

you can use a higher wattage resistor if that's what you have ... it needs to be rated at least 1 watt, but a 2W, 5W or 10W would work fine ... they are just physically bigger.

two 100 ohm 1/2W resistors wired in parallel would work too.  The current splits evenly thru the two resistors so each only needs to dissipate 1/2 the heat.

technically two 94 ohm resistors in parallel would give you 47 ohms, but the 50 ohms you'd get from a pair of 100 ohms resistors in parallel are close enough.  The original resistors were probably 10% or 20% tolerance , so they could be off by a few ohms in either direction.

the connection between the diode and resistor is usually sleeved with some insulation stripped off another wire, or you can use heat shrink tubing.  Don't cover the resistor in heat shrink tubing since that will trap in heat.  Or just solder the diode/resistor really close together and attach to the relay so the exposed joint can't touch anything else.

[David Walz]

hopper cutoff wiring that is visible in the pic looks ok.

where is the 1N4004 (or 1N4007) diode?  Your drawing shows 2 resistors?

verify the cap is installed the right way ... the minus end should be attached to wire 70.  Unfortunately, there's no standard that says the crimp in the can is at the plus or minus end of a radial cap, so you have to look at the markings on the can.

Ordered up the 1N4007 diode.

This is what I came up with for installing it.

oops ... nope.  See schem and patched up diagram below. 

you can use a higher wattage resistor if that's what you have ... it needs to be rated at least 1 watt, but a 2W, 5W or 10W would work fine ... they are just physically bigger.

two 100 ohm 1/2W resistors wired in parallel would work too.  The current splits evenly thru the two resistors so each only needs to dissipate 1/2 the heat.

technically two 94 ohm resistors in parallel would give you 47 ohms, but the 50 ohms you'd get from a pair of 100 ohms resistors in parallel are close enough.  The original resistors were probably 10% or 20% tolerance , so they could be off by a few ohms in either direction.

the connection between the diode and resistor is usually sleeved with some insulation stripped off another wire, or you can use heat shrink tubing.  Don't cover the resistor in heat shrink tubing since that will trap in heat.  Or just solder the diode/resistor really close together and attach to the relay so the exposed joint can't touch anything else.

If I didn't have you, the place would be on fire. 

[David Walz]

Well, the hopper is complete, it fits into the cabinet with the shorter scoop. Great news.
Look at the floor of the machine,  spick and span.

I didn't forget, I still need to put the two small pieces of Formica in the front of the slot machine, I just haven't got around to it.

[David Walz]

Repaired the black light shield in the reel window. I don't understand why Bally places the steel piece up against the glass, it destroys the glass. I have had the same issue with the other slot machines. I always put some black tape to protect the glass. 

[David Walz]

Put the laminate pieces on the front of the slot machine.   

[David Walz]

I contacted MONTI'S SLOT SHOP. They are getting a package together for me.

Hopefully this will be the last of the parts. 

[David Walz]

I have been researching the reel tape pattern with other 1114 machines to see if mine is not the 1114 reel tapes. I discovered is it's the same pattern, so I am pretty sure the reel tapes are authentic for my machine. Besides, the coin assembly in the door is set up for $1 coin and 25¢ coin would not trigger the coin switch.

[David Walz]

Trying to figure this out, a reset switch. 

.

[David Walz]

Finishing up on the belly lights. Seems everything is working I was able to check out the advancement of the coin and the lights are all working. It's nice to see the door lights working, solenoid's clicking. My hard work is paying off, things are taking shape. 

That was definitely a lot of work, I had to use flat LED lights to fit properly. The old bulb sockets were broken, totally screwed up, the wood needed gluing, but in the end it looks excellent. 

[David Walz]

I finally received the Silver Dollar Saloon and Casino, Las Vegas tokens in for the machine. 

Since the Eisenhower $1 are sought after by collectors, this is the next best option.

[David Walz]

Finally I have the three wire Molex  connectors in. 

Interesting that the outside meter is actually working. I will see how it perform when I start on the slot machine systems check.