IGT S2000 flashing red light on mpu & no display

[timbo1961]

 
My IGT S2000s was working fine over the holiday and all of the sudden the display, buttons and credits went blank, I opened the door and noticed the mpu has a flashing red light, can anyone give me direction on what can be checked please? I have read the forums and made myself more filimular with the power supply and boards, I've checked the fuses, checked connections for burnt spots and reseated connection and checked power supply for input and output voltages, but honestly not sure what these readings should be, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for reading.

[Tilt]

 

You have a S2000, not an S+.  The blinking red light indicates the MPU is not booting.  You said you checked the power supply voltages, what readings did you get?  Post a picture of the MPU board.  Pictures have to be less than 1MB in size to post, so resize as necessary.  Make sure to turn off the power prior to removing or installing any components.

[timbo1961]

Thanks for clarifing S2000, here are my dc voltages readings. 

[Stayouttadabunker]

Your PS is weak.
I get 12vdc and 24vdc for the red and orange pins respectively.
About the same with the others.

[timbo1961]

MPU Board

[timbo1961]

Thank you, a power supply is what I will look for then. Do you know if these power supplies can be refurbished or best to look for a new one? I have read capicators can be swapped out, but not sure on which ones and if this would fix my problem.

[timbo1961]

Power supply

[Stayouttadabunker]

Hang on.
Look at this photo.
See those two beige, off-white connectors on the MPU board?
I 've drawn green arrows pointing at them.
There's a million pins in them...make sure they're straight.
Carefully inspect them with good lighting.
They shouldn't be any touching or folded over.
Press the mpu firmly ALL the way in.
Try to feel the pns sink into the socket holes as you push the board.

Yeah your Autec PS...it's old as heck.
C99 1uf@50V capacitor is usually the main culprit.
Try to remove the cover and see if there's bulging, swollen caps.
I think member Trisail knows how to re-furbish them.
There's also very good diagostic & repair videos by Randy Fromm.
There's also 3Y, and WinTact power supplies too.
I'd shop around...fixing these are a pain.
Keep it for parts....haha


Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

[timbo1961]

All look good and seated in. All caps look good on ps, but I think your on to something, since my voltages aren't what you say they should be.

[Stayouttadabunker]

holy crap!
Your pictures are awesome!
Good clarity! 

Pins are good underneath the MPU.
How about the battery voltage?
Don't take it out or you'll lose settings. try to probe with your multimeter the positive and negative sides of battery while it's still solered in.
Need to have at least 3vdc.

[Stayouttadabunker]

I'd heat up these power pins on the header too.
Flip board over and touch each pin with a soldering pen...just heat up for a few seconds each and let cool right away.
A cold solder joint will reduce power too but I was sure it was the caps.
But your caps look OK...looks can be deceiving tho.
I'd take off the board screws and check the backside for heating damage.

I drew some arrows...>>>

[timbo1961]

battery voltage 3.0 dc. I will look for the dry soldier and hit anyway. I will read up more on caps, no way to test while connected I have read. hoping it was something simple haha, the machine don't get used much and is powered off most of the year, my thoughts were the battery also, but reads good suprisingly. thanks for all your suggestions.

[Tilt]

Yeah, your power supply is bad.  It should have +13VDC on the red wire(s), and +25VDC on the orange wires. 

You should ditch that varta rechargeable battery too before it starts leaking. The easiest way to do it is grab a hold of it with a pair of pliers and rock it side to side.  It will break the tabs off at the board and then toss it in the trash. 

 

[timbo1961]

Thank you Tilt for confirming. Ok just remove it blue item C67 on mpu correct?

[Stayouttadabunker]

NO!
That's the capacitor for the MML (Multi Media Lite) piggy-back board which houses the DSV00042 sound SIMM card.
He's talking about the black, wrapped one near the doughnut-looking toroid choke with red wires.

It's held on by three tabs.
Snip one tab away from the surface of the circuit board.
There's small, tiny circuitry traces that are important to try not harm.
Then you wiggle off the battery back and forth, the other two tabs should break without causing any harm to the board circuitry.

I've drawn some circles around it.
Click on photo to enlarge if needed...>>>

[timbo1961]

Thanks for pointing this out. I don't need any more issues.

[Tilt]

Yes, what Bunker said.  Sorry I should have been more specific. 

[timbo1961]

I'm back, order a power supply and powered back on and rechecked my voltages, red wires 25 v - orange wires 13 v , checking at the 10 pin connector, but I'm still getting the flashing red light on the mpu and no display. I removed the mpu boards and the stepper board and checked for burn marks all looked good see pictures. futher troubleshooting ideas much appreciated.
Thank you 

[Double D]

You are experiencing the exact same thing I am.  Any resolution on your end?

[timbo1961]

No, I was told it's possible my MPU board is bad, since im getting the flashing red light. I'm still looking for more troubleshooting ideas.