Bally 1000 / 1209 various questions (tilt, PSU, SDS mode, rarity)

[Badbaud]

Not really. The closest thing you can try is to put a Ohm meter across the leads of one and hold it up to a bright light to see how much of a swing you get.

[GOS]

easiest way - remove the P1 or M7 eprom.
turn power on - display will show 654321 flashing - press the test button to get into the 5 test.
the display will show the the position number of the reel - 1 thru 22 for 22 stop for example
move the reel thru all 22 stops -  you should be able to find position 1 and as you move thru each position any change will tell you which resistor is failing using hex math - pos 1 on the reel equal pos 1 on the reader  -  2 is position 2  - pos 3 is 1 and 2 on the reader.  pos 4 is 3 on reader and pos 5 is 1 and 3
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8  and you get 1 0 1 4 5 4 6 8  indicates that reel reader 2 is not working

this only tells you which position on the reader is not reading - can be wire harness too - so don't go and repair the board.

[RetroMan]

Not really. The closest thing you can try is to put a Ohm meter across the leads of one and hold it up to a bright light to see how much of a swing you get.

I did that. Dark = no conduction, lit = conduction within 5k - 10k ohm range. I measured this on al new transistors, and on a selection of the transistors that came from the board. So I guess the transistors are OK. Do you agree?

[RetroMan]

easiest way - remove the P1 or M7 eprom.
turn power on - display will show 654321 flashing - press the test button to get into the 5 test.
the display will show the the position number of the reel - 1 thru 22 for 22 stop for example
move the reel thru all 22 stops -  you should be able to find position 1 and as you move thru each position any change will tell you which resistor is failing using hex math - pos 1 on the reel equal pos 1 on the reader  -  2 is position 2  - pos 3 is 1 and 2 on the reader.  pos 4 is 3 on reader and pos 5 is 1 and 3
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8  and you get 1 0 1 4 5 4 6 8  indicates that reel reader 2 is not working

this only tells you which position on the reader is not reading - can be wire harness too - so don't go and repair the board.

OK, I will perform this tonight and report back. Thanks!


R

[RetroMan]

easiest way - remove the P1 or M7 eprom.
turn power on - display will show 654321 flashing - press the test button to get into the 5 test.
the display will show the the position number of the reel - 1 thru 22 for 22 stop for example
move the reel thru all 22 stops -  you should be able to find position 1 and as you move thru each position any change will tell you which resistor is failing using hex math - pos 1 on the reel equal pos 1 on the reader  -  2 is position 2  - pos 3 is 1 and 2 on the reader.  pos 4 is 3 on reader and pos 5 is 1 and 3
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8  and you get 1 0 1 4 5 4 6 8  indicates that reel reader 2 is not working

this only tells you which position on the reader is not reading - can be wire harness too - so don't go and repair the board.

Hello there, I found two things, hope you can make something out of it!


1) I did as you said: Removed M7 EPROM, turned on, display flashing 654321 and went into test mode 5. After that the display showed 0000.. for a second and after that it shows .1...1 and I can get this changed ONLY by moving reel 1. I have seen .1...    When moving reel 2 or reel 3 I do NOT see any change in these numbers. I tried swapping the reel reader cables of reel 1 and 2; after that, I couldn't seem to change the reading at all.




2) In test 3, "switch test", I notice that all switches are registered EXCEPT the hopper counter switch. The switch by itself measures OK. Also, when I disconnect the 2 wires from the switch and manually make (or break) contact, this is not registered by the machine. To be really sure there is something wrong there, I ran test 4 "hopper test" which should pay 10 coins. This test fails, paying coins until the hopper almost runs empty, resulting in tilt.


I hope you can give the magic formula to solve it now, or another thing to look for. Many thanks in advance again!


R

[Badbaud]

Could be some bad input chips on the I/O board or corroded pins on the header or plug.

[GOS]

 didn't give all the info - yes you will get a "1" in the left most meter that shows reel 1 - then the 1 on the right is reel position - moving the reel will increment the numbers  1......1  1.......2  etc
to go to reel 2 you actuate the coin switch until you get the 2 in the left most  - repeat to get to reel 3. 

[RetroMan]

Could be some bad input chips on the I/O board or corroded pins on the header or plug.

Not only the hopper counter switch fails, also some of the DIP switches (position 2, 4) are not read.


I got a tip to swap U7 and U8 (both N8T28N) but then I got error 100000. I swapped them back, now the display doesn't read 500000 but xxxx00 (without the x's).


I guess we're on to something but where to look next?


R 

[RetroMan]

didn't give all the info - yes you will get a "1" in the left most meter that shows reel 1 - then the 1 on the right is reel position - moving the reel will increment the numbers  1......1  1.......2  etc
to go to reel 2 you actuate the coin switch until you get the 2 in the left most  - repeat to get to reel 3.

Currently I can't do this test because of the display reading xxxx00.


Assuming the reader test without the EPROM installed was OK, what would be the next thing to do?


R

[RetroMan]

The over all machine style is not rare. The belly glass belonged to one or a group of casinos. It’s not uncommon for a casino to swap in there glass on the machines used in there building.

Yep, I got confirmed that because of this, the production number of Bally brand glasses was low. And a lot of the Bally glasses that did make it to the public got destroyed when the machine got a second life with another operator, or on some fair. The only occurance of the glasses of my machine so far are the ones printed in the manual.... Seems to be rare as hens teeth.

[RetroMan]

Could be some bad input chips on the I/O board or corroded pins on the header or plug.

Not only the hopper counter switch fails, also some of the DIP switches (position 2, 4) are not read.


I got a tip to swap U7 and U8 (both N8T28N) but then I got error 100000. I swapped them back, now the display doesn't read 500000 but xxxx00 (without the x's).


I guess we're on to something but where to look next?


R

Yihaa! Replaced U7 and U8 and now I have a working machine!


R

[Amechanic]

On what board did these get replaced??

[RetroMan]

On what board did these get replaced??

They were replaced on the MPU board.


One hour after replacement, the machine gave me back kudo's for repairing it;-) See photo;-)

R

[Amechanic]

On what board did you Replaced U7 and U8?

[RetroMan]

On what board did these get replaced??

They were replaced on the MPU board.


One hour after replacement, the machine gave me back kudo's for repairing it;-) See photo;-)

R

So. I have been playing my wonderful Bally for exactly a week, and I've played it quite intensively. I noticed something that I didn't notice before: The machine is teasing. It presents combinations like 7, 7 and red cherry (making you think for an instance that it's 3 7's); or BAR BAR and the 3rd BAR a position above or below the winline. And so on. I guess the players here know what I mean.


Now I am curious: How does this machine determine its wins? I had one guy (the seller) telling me it's random, and that the global payout percentage is determined by the personality prom + the choice of reel tapes. He was quite convinced about that. One other guy told me it's 100% CPU calculated, and the teasing is part of that. Following his story, the CPU determines the reel stop.


Could someone reveal the truth?

R