Bally's Jillion Slot Handle Stuck

[Akriegs]

The J bracket is flush with the end of the unit. I tried uploading a small video but it says max size is 1mb. How can i circumvent that threshold?

[DavidLee]

Wolftalk can help out with the video.

Try moving the J bracket towards the front of the machine is my help.
This will allow the index arms to move back a little farther before the wheels are kicked.

Move it roughly 1/16 of an inch or less, this is slightly critical so small increments work best.
Make note exactly where the J bracket is at this present time for reference.

[DavidLee]

I’m still thinking more cleaning of the index arm/ kicker assembly needs to be done.

Observe between the reels with a bright light. You will be able to see the index arms and kickers working.

The index arms should retract easily in one motion.

Observe the third reel index arm. It should moving freely, compare to the first and second reel arms for any movement.

[wolftalk]

I do not understand the "missing the black rubber pad in the holder by the sawtooth thing"
what is this pad?

bally 2600 manual, page 36, item 14 ... rubber bumper.

[DavidLee]

Diagram for rubber bumper.

[Akriegs]

I got in there again today with my tooth brush and cleaned up again. I did notice this when i manual pull the wipers. On the 2 reels that do not work correctly i noticed this tittle piece as shown in the photo is on the opposite side of the working wheel 3. Should it be on this side ?

here is another photo of the little piece that appears to be on the wrong side.

[DavidLee]

Compare it with the 3rd reel, I believe that part activates the index arm.
Sometimes when the wiper board fingers are pulled too far forward when the reels out that piece will get out of place.

So basically make all the levers look the same as the number 3 reel mechanism.

[Akriegs]

AWESOME news. the 2 pieces i talked about previously fixed the spinning issue. the wheels now spin and stop. My first spin i hit 3 bars. No sounds were made and no coins payed out. I cleaned all the contacts on the hopper. When i was putting it back in i noticed it was 10c and had a model number looks like 32T. Will this hopper work. Can i test with some other hoppers i have ?

I also have issues with the quarters not going to the hopper.

[wolftalk]

it's 3ZT.

831-3ZT is a valid model number for a "1767 way" machine.   Your reel tapes look correct for that model wrt only having 7's, bars and melons.

basically the same game as an 831-ZE ... you can find paperwork for that on https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/

a 10c hopper can be converted to 25c ... if the coins fit between the pins on the disc and when exiting the hopper lift the roller and step the payout counter, you're ok.

if someone just stuck a 25c coin mech in and didn't make other changes, that's not going to work.

the coin diverter on the door under the coin mech is controlled by the hopper level switch.  When the wiffle ball float in the hopper raises high enough to close the switch on the arm, the diverter sends coins to the overflow chute.

if you mean coin just dump back out into the tray instead of cycling the game to reset/add lines, that's a different problem.

first thing to look at for payout issues is if the payout counter is reset and the traces are clean.  Then make sure the reel wiper board rivets are clean and the wipers align on the rivets correctly ... the paperwork will help or you can just look at the wire color on the payout counter trace for the win and see if the reel wipers are making a circuit path from the grey wire on reel 3 (center line win) to blue/yellow line on reel 1 for a bar-bar-bar win.

in other words, for a bar-bar-bar on the center line, you need a closed circuit from grey wire 90 on reel 3 to the 20 trace on the payout counter.

a voltmeter can be handy to find the problem ... you have one?

[Akriegs]

after reading all day about hopper issues and manuals i did some more digging.
I took BEAU plug unit off in the back of the machine and i found the 2 round holes wire connectors not connected or should say pushed out of the sockets . I connected them and played the machine. I had some winning combinations but the machine did not payout. I kept on playing and then i hit  Bar Bar space on line 3 with bar on the 2nd line and it paid out. what do i need to correct on the 3rd reel to pay on correct line pays?

the coin diverter on the door under the coin mech is controlled by the hopper level switch.  When the wiffle ball float in the hopper raises high enough to close the switch on the arm, the diverter sends coins to the overflow chute.
---there is really no coins in the hopper for the wiffle ball float to raise high enough. Can i override this?

[DavidLee]

The 3rd reel tape has slipped out of position.
Lightly pry up the crimped areas on the reel edge. Slide the tape into the right position and re-crimp.

The float ball arm switch. Check the switch for continuity and alignment.
Manually operate the float the diversion coil should activate.

You can temporarily jam the diverter to send the coins into the hopper.

[Akriegs]

As i was doing some cleaning on the hopper i may have moved the wheel a few turns. How do set it back so i can get the correct payout?
Did this effect the payouts now?
Did i screw it all up?

[wolftalk]

your reel tape could be wrong, or your reel wiper arm is mispositioned on the rivets.

for a bar-bar-bar on the center line with blanks on lines 2 & 3 on reel 2, per the 831-ZE schematic your circuit path is:
- wire 90 to 71 on reel 3
- wire 71 to 83 on reel 2
- wire 83 to 23 on reel 1
- 23 to the 20 trace on the payout counter disc

per the reel wiper wiring diagram, the reel index arms should all be in depth 1 slots ... the shallowest slots in the metal index discs.

so make sure when all three reels are indexed in the shallowest slot, you have bar-bar-bar on the center line and the wiper arm contacts are all on the same line of rivets on the wiper boards.
 
note the "with blanks on lines 2 & 3 on reel 2" above matters.  If you have a melon on line 2 and a bar on the center line, the reel wipers will be in a depth 5 slot on reel 2, not a depth 1 slot.

to reset the payout counter, push in the plunger on the reset solenoid on the raatchet side of the unit.  The game is supposed to power the reset solenoid coil when you spin the reels.  If it's not, your game won't pay unless you win more than a previous win, then it'll just pay the difference.

[Akriegs]

I cant get the machine to payout anything now. Does this Yellow wire do anything?
When i push the hopper in this always is pushed out the back.
ALSO to reset the payout counter, push in the plunger on the reset solenoid on the ratchet side of the unit.
I cant seem to find it. Can you post a picture of what i am supposed to release to get the hopper back to normal. I'm not sure its resetting after payout.
I appreciate all the help i have received so far. A great community of knowledge.

[DavidLee]

Yellow wire is a from the transformer common to all 54 volt circuits.

It maybe possible to re-adjust the locking mechanism, then re-install the loose pin/socket.
Or a small dab of crazy glue.
Check the pin alignment as to prevent pins or sockets from being pushed out.

Depress the plungers on the back of the payout step up unit.
Evidence will reveal which is the step up and reset coils/plungers.

[Akriegs]

It appears that this plug solved the payout issue with the hopper.
I still need to resolve the issue with the coins not going to the hopper but falling to the floor.
the coin accepted light does not illuminate ( yes i switched the working bulb to non working socket.)

[DavidLee]

Are the coins coming out the front of the machine or the hole in the bottom.
It’s either the coin mechanism or diverter.
Diverter shower in photo.

[Akriegs]

Its coming from the diverter. I propped a piece of paper there so its forced to go to the hopper.

[DavidLee]

Test the coil by jumping a yellow to the color coded wire.

[Akriegs]

The riddle has been solved. I worked backwards until i found this switch on the hopper. It appears someone moved the little square box with the 2 little set screws  and would never activate the switch when the whiffle ball was lower position(empty hopper). I loosed the 2 screws and set to close the circuit when empty. Ta Da the system is working like a champ. The only issue i have now is the coin accepted light not working. I cleaned all the contacts with alcohols several times already. I guess i can live without it if needed.
Thank  you all for great help.