Please Help!!! PAGING ALL EXPERTS!!! BALLY 1090-1 QUARTER SLOT

[KingZoltar]

Hi there NewLife game community,
I have a Bally 1090-1 Quarters slot machine from 1981. I apologize in advance if this post seems long but i am a new to all of this and dont know if any of it is connected, so all that happened that tragic day in my garage playing my beloved slot machine that was casino used up until 2004.
In the season finale of all things 2020; I was sitting in my garage playing my slot and having a beer and  in an instant the 3rd reel didn't stop like it usually did, and just kept spinning and spinning.
I called the newlifegame phone # and the nice guy i spoke to said it probably just needs to be cleaned and lubed. I was relieved and got to cleaning and lubing as Christmas neared. I am a newbie at slot machines but somewhat handy and love  taking things apart and trying to fix things since childhood, so i attempted the task on my own and to my relief after some lubing the reel started stopping again as usual; but that was short lived as after that issue was resolved; now the handle wouldn't release when I put in quarters and i noticed it wouldn't step up after the first coin, even though i heard the sound of coin acceptance.
I opened the top light board and in the rear area where the sound would normally come from stepping up ; I noticed my 2nd coil switch; which was marked coin unit reset relay, had the plastic prong holder broken, but would still work when manually pushed on. So i needed a new plastic piece, so i ordered one similar off eBay and instead of soldering the replacement coil i recieved; which wasn't in the best condition to begin with,  I simply straighten the prongs that held the plastic piece down to the coil and released the plastic piece and replaced my original coils broken piece.Voila!! that was a success, but I soon realized that was not the issue preventing the stepping up and handle release, so  as i tinkered with the step up coin up coil switch, i noticed it would release the handle when i manually pushed the coil to make contact. After tinkering around some more i noticed the locking unit behind the  F-31-1500 coil, on the side of the reel mechanism was locking and that was preventing the handle from releasing but after manually releasing the lock it would allow the game to step up to additional coins and work normally.
I ordered a new F-31-1500 coil hopping that after i replace it, all will be back to usual and i can enjoy my beloved slot machine again, but with my luck and lack of knowledge i am preparing for more trouble shooting. I am including pictures of my machine and work i have performed for critique and ask if you have any idea what the issue could be from. Please Help!!!!!

p.s on the coin up step up coin the capacitor seems like it split in half. any idea what resistance it is and where i can find a replacement? thank you in advance.

[wolftalk]

you're doing fine.

the easy way to replace the plastic switch lifter is remove the spring and the metal armature plate, then you can usually get the lifter off/on the switch blades without removing the switch stack or the coil.  You do have to unscrew the relay from the wood to get to the spring easily.


if you do remove a coil, there's sometimes a brass washer.  When there, it goes between the coil and the metal relay frame, not directly under the screw head.  It's there to help prevent "residual magnetism" which would cause the armature plate to stay on the coil top after the coil power was turned off.


paperwork for the 1090-1 can be found on http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/


the resistor that is burnt is a 2400 ohm, 2 watt.  It's trickling some current to the handle release coil, total in meter and chime, so you may want to check those coils to see if they look burnt.  The meter coil would be inside tho ... if the meter works, it's probably fine.  If the meter doesn't work, disconnect it as that's likely the reason the resistor died.


sometimes the resistor is listed as 2.4K ohm.  You can use a resistor with a higher wattage rating if that's what you find, but don't go lower.  You'll probably find that shipping costs more than the resistor, or you'll need to buy a pack of them.  The original resistor is a basic carbon film with a 10% tolerance.  It may be cheaper/easier/faster to get a more precise resistor made of different material.  The size may be smaller on modern resistors.


something like these would work:


https://www.amazon.com/Davitu-Electronic-Accessories-Supplies-Resistance/dp/B08NHFQ9BR
https://www.amazon.com/IIVVERR-Through-Resistors-orificio-pel%C3%ADcula/dp/B08LDWB6ZK

 

[KingZoltar]

thanks wolftalk for such a speedy and informative response, also for giving me confidence.
when you say meter coil do you mean the coil under; where the resistor is burnt out? if so i will try to find out what kind of coil that is and try to find a replacement (any idea what kind of coil?)


as for the resistor; is this the correct one? https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Tolerance-Resistors-Electronic-Experiments/dp/B07V3SV49L/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=2+ohm+2+watt+resistor&qid=1610223290&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-5

[wolftalk]

the resistor in your link is 2 ohm, so nope, that's not going to work.   You need 2400 ohm (2.4K ohm).


the meters are the little boxes scattered around with the digits that increment like an old-style car odometer ... below is a pic from an 809-ZZB showing a meter in the cabinet.  The coil that causes the numbers to turn is inside the box where you can't see it unless you open the box - if you can.


you may not have some/all the meters.  They were required when operating the games in casinos or whatever, but sometimes get removed when the machines were sold.  They can be mounted anywhere, but the most common places are in the cabinet or on the hopper.  They are almost always visible just by opening the door.


your "total in" meter would have brown/orange and brown/yellow wires on the lugs, and it's counting the number of coins accepted into the machine.  It does not increment if the door is open tho.

[KingZoltar]

i think i found it, there are two one says in and the other out; the one that says out had black tape and around it . that i removed. i will wait till i change the broken resistor  and the replacement f-31-1500 coil i ordered before i power the machine back up. i dont want to cause any further damage, just in case, because i have no idea what im doing besides replacing parts

[wolftalk]

since the meters connect via a plug and use black jumper wires, you have to go to the plug to see the wire colors the schematic says.

you can disconnect the plug going to the meters  then use an ohmeter on the two wires going to each meter and compare the resistance readings.  They should be about the same.





your transformer looks normal.

[KingZoltar]

https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Salon-10PCS-Watts-Metal-Resistor/dp/B0776MR21B/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3UWRSYWOTY3FT&dchild=1&keywords=2.4k+ohm+resistor+5+watt&qid=1610592763&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=2.4K+ohm+re%2Caps%2C224&sr=8-10

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Tolerance-Resistance-Electronic-Experiments/dp/B07RWF2FVG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3UWRSYWOTY3FT&dchild=1&keywords=2.4k+ohm+resistor+5+watt&qid=1610592763&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=2.4K+ohm+re%2Caps%2C224&sr=8-3


will these work? and is there a difference in quality in resistors?

[wolftalk]

either one is fine. 


quality isn't really a concern in resistors unless you need highly precise values.    The bally circuits originally used resistor that could be 10% off their rated value, and it wouldn't matter if they were off more than that.

[DavidLee]

Sounds like you have everything working okay.


Regarding the coin meters, if the numbers are out of alignment, it could be a internal problem.
The advancing mechanism has a weak spot in the design. At this point the part will fail.
One way to check this is to watch the meter when coins are added or dispensed.
The numbers will move, but not make a successful rotation.
Or it could be an electrical failure internally.


Regarding the third reel, clean and lube all moving parts pertaining to this reel.
Including the wiper board index arm and the actual wiper board.
If the board and arm are gummed up the arm will not return. Specially in colder climates.

[KingZoltar]

Bad news guys, I’m stuck!!!
I got a new f-31-1500 coil and soldered it in place and also soldered the 2.4K 2 watt resistor on the step up coil assembly, but still it is not stepping up and not releasing the handle to spin. I noticed the lockout mechanism by the f 31 1500 is not releasing.please help!!! 😢


Also the coin in and out out seems to not work because of this issue, but before I’m certain only the coin in worked because the coin out didn’t change regardless of payout.


Also this was my first time soldering but please tell me if I maybe did something wrong

[KingZoltar]

could the led replacement light be contributing to my issue?

[DavidLee]

Don’t think the LEDs will affect the machine.

The coin relay coil needs some attention.
Regarding the insulator washer.
It goes between the bracket and the coil.
This could solve one problem.

Attached photo shows normal installation.

[DavidLee]

Follow up photo.

Note this particular machine is operating without a resistor in this part of the circuit.

Also note the coil core is closer to the latch assembly armature,
with the insulator between the coil and the mounting bracket.

This may solve one problem.

Make the correction and report back.

[KingZoltar]

hi david, thanks for that; wasnt sure how i took it out but i just changed the washer position, but it doesnt seem like it changed anything. its really weird because all the coils seem fine when i check with the multimeter. this has got to be a simple thing because i was playing and it all of a sudden went dead. i might need a zoom conference call or facetime call with one of you experts to diagnosis as i try it out lol

[DavidLee]

Check the fuses, if the lights come on,  the main and 6 volt fuses are ok.
Also try pushing the hopper and reels mechanism in as to reseat them.

[KingZoltar]

Lights and everything comes on also I checked all 4 of the main fuses and they are all intact, the reel mechanism has the locks so no ya to go further ,the hopper is all the way in as well

[DavidLee]

You can manually run the machine. This might reset everything back to normal.
To do this you need to pull the handle release stop forward.
This stop piece sticks up out of the handle ratchet case top front.
It prevents the handle release lever from dropping down.
If you pull it forward you will be able to pull the handle.


In some cases the machine will become synchronized and star working again.


You might also want to re-inspect the resent solder joins.

[wolftalk]

just be be a bit pedantic ...


the coil you replaced on the back/left side of the reel mech is on the coin relay.


the soldering job is so-so and may not be reliable.   Try and heat the wire and the lug, then hold a little solder on the joint so it flows to both places.  If that's not working well, heat each separately and put fresh solder on each, then hold the two together and melt them together.  The end goal is a shiny smooth solder blob that bridges the wire/lug.   It's not necessary to put the wire thru the lug hole.


I'm fuzzy on what's happening, so what is supposed to happen is:


1] hold down coin switch
2] coin relay coil power and trips the armature plate, which immediately disconnects the coil power - which is fine for a trip relay that needs the armature to be mechanically reset.
3] let go of the coin switch
4] a switch on the coin relay with blue/white wire 25-1 and black/yellow wire 83-1 closed when the coin relay tripped.   oin switch up connects the circuit and causes the handle release relay to trip


how far in that sequence are you getting?

[KingZoltar]

I tried holding down the little pivoting coin switch on the door but nothing happened

[wolftalk]

you should have a reset button at the upper right of the main compartment area.  All it does is power the hopper cutoff relay, which is probably on the hopper? (hopper cutoff relay has a 50mfd capacitor on it, while the delay relay has a 30mfd ... hopper cut-off relay has a switch with brown/yellow and grey/orange wires on the blades).


if you push reset and don't hear anything, and ideally can see the hopper cutoff relay isn't powered, then pull the 50V fuse (5A fuse with orange/red wire and orange wire on holder) and check it with an ohmeter.  Sometimes the filament breaks off a cap due to vibration.


alternatively, with all the units in the game and everything mechanically reset after a spin (coin relay, handle release relay), stick a voltmeter on the yellow and blue/yellow wires on the coin switch.  You should see 50VAC.