Author Topic: Bally E-1240-4 Help needed (Read 10368 times)

Akriegs · « **on:** November 03, 2015, 05:38:12 PM »

Help needed with Bally E-1240-4 machine. I turn on and get error code 50 for door being open. i can assure the door is shut but i cant clear the code. Also when i insert coin and pull handle the wheels just keep spinning and don't stop. Any help would be appreciated. Are there any users from Atlanta metro area that like to work on machine? I am looking to meet some users to help share in knowledge of all types of slot machines.

UPDATE---i pushtest the test button 8 times and was able to get wheels to spin and stop. i think the door open is the issue. i have an older model e that ha some kind of connection where the lock is. i am thinking this is the issue on my new machine. how can i get around the door open issue on my E machine?

Amechanic · « **Reply #1 on:** November 03, 2015, 07:00:13 PM »

Hello... Well getting it to play in test 8 is a good sign.. You have two door switches, one on the lower cabinet hinge, the other one is on the door next to the door lock.. If your in a test, any test, you can terminate it by closing the door.. That's one way to test the door hinge switch, the door lock switch can be checked in test 3 if I remember correctly.. On some machines the door lock switch is closed when the door is locked, others it's closed when the door lock is open, then a cam allows it to open when the door locks..My guess is that you have an issue with the one on the door..

Gay

Akriegs · « **Reply #2 on:** November 03, 2015, 08:18:33 PM »

I have another e series that has a contact when you turn the key. it actually pushes the contact when the key is turned. With my new machine I don't see this part. i'm not sure if its removed or not.

Akriegs · « **Reply #3 on:** November 03, 2015, 08:20:36 PM »

here are 2 pictures of the machine I have issues with as you can see I don't have that contact not sure if its supposed to be there or someone ripped it out.

Paul · « **Reply #4 on:** November 03, 2015, 08:27:09 PM »

If I remember right code 50 is the door opened code.
And it will stay till there is a complete spin.
But the reels spin and don't lock tells me that you should look
at the kick switches as the problem.
The fact that you get the machine to coin up and pull the handle
says the door is closed and the game is ready to play.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #5 on:** November 03, 2015, 08:48:05 PM »

You may already be aware of this but just in case..............

This switch appears to be one of the "door open" sensing switches. Since it is missing on the bad machine maybe it only uses the door hinge switch?

rokgpsman · « **Reply #6 on:** November 03, 2015, 08:53:00 PM »

Also, is the part circled below a door hinge switch?

Amechanic · « **Reply #7 on:** November 03, 2015, 09:19:09 PM »

What you have circled is one of the ballast on the front door.

Check your kick and arm switches for operation in test #3.

Has this machine worked for you in the past, or is it a new project?

Does the 50000 stay in the win meter after you try coining it up and pulling the handle, or does it change? Tilt light come on?

rokgpsman · « **Reply #8 on:** November 03, 2015, 09:44:40 PM »

Quote from: Amechanic on November 03, 2015, 09:19:09 PM

...What you have circled is one of the ballast on the front door....

ok thanks!

Akriegs · « **Reply #9 on:** November 04, 2015, 05:56:36 AM »

I close the door and put coin in and it will accept and spin and actually payoff if I win. The error 50 will not go away. This is a new project I picked off CL and I had no other info. Everything seems to work ok but I would like to get the error codes not to display.

Amechanic · « **Reply #10 on:** November 04, 2015, 10:52:30 AM »

Can you get pictures of the MPU board front and back sides. From what I'm hearing is that this machine is working correct, but the win meter is not. It's always read the 50000. It sounds like you might have had someone use a jumper wire on the MPU to by pass the relay..

The MPU is the board located on the left side of the cabinet by the reels. You need to be careful not the damage the very small and fragile pins on the ribbon cable that connects your win meter to the board.

OldReno · « **Reply #11 on:** November 04, 2015, 12:07:18 PM »

You can probably find a lot more information on your machine here, too:>>>
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=75.0

Akriegs · « **Reply #12 on:** November 04, 2015, 04:20:29 PM »

i am attaching the front picture of the Mother board only because the wire looks old and frail. I also am attaching the front picture of the error code. I would like to see if i can get the belly glass to see if i can put a light bulb and i am having issues. i see 4 screws on the front of the glass belly but i cant open it up. do i need to undo something from the inside of the machine?
Thanks for all the help from evryone.

Akriegs · « **Reply #13 on:** November 04, 2015, 05:23:54 PM »

I was able to get the front belly glass off and I saw the bulb was attached. I tested it on my other slot and it worked. it must be a power issue. I can see that it only uses 1 side of the power is that the way it supposed to be? or do both sides get plugged in. I am also missing one of the starters on the side the power is actually connected to. I took a starter from my other machine and put in this machine but the bulb still did not light any suggestions? The left black side has the power but no starter the other side has started byut the cable is not plugged in to any place and clearly I could not see an open connector to connect it to.

Akriegs · « **Reply #14 on:** November 04, 2015, 06:09:44 PM »

UPDATE to all. I was able to get the lights working on the belly glass by taking the starters from the other machine and putting into the broken machine. my last dilemma is the dreaded 50 code when I am playing the machine. I read the ballys manual and it shows on page 11 the door switch behind the lower door hinge. I am posting a close up of that piece. I can see there are 3 prongs and only 2 wires connected. I am not sure if that is the way its is supposed to be. Any input? I really would like to get this dreaded error code to go away and I will have taken a totally dead machine that I picked up on Sunday and have it fully functioning in 3 days.
Once again thanks to this forum and all the knowledge you guys have I am becoming very familiar with these machine.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #15 on:** November 04, 2015, 06:15:00 PM »

Quote from: Akriegs on November 04, 2015, 06:09:44 PM

.....I read the ballys manual and it shows on page 11 the door switch behind the lower door hinge. I am posting a close up of that piece. I can see there are 3 prongs and only 2 wires connected. I am not sure if that is the way its is supposed to be. Any input?.......

I'm fairly sure that is normal to have an unused terminal on the door switch. The switch is made with 3 terminals so it can be used in different machines and configurations. On the 2 terminals near each other one of them is the Normally Open terminal and the other is the Normally Closed terminal. That way it can be connected to a circuit that either needs an open connection or a closed connection to sense the door being open.

Now if someone moved a wire in your machine and put it on the wrong terminal you'd have a problem, can you compare it to your other working machine to make sure?

Also, I think there is an adjustment you can make to this door switch by loosening mounting screws so that it deactivates when the door is shut. Sometimes the plunger doesn't move far enough to press enough on the switch when the door is closed.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #16 on:** November 05, 2015, 06:00:50 AM »

Try loosening the screws on the switch mounting plate and adjust it closer to the hinge. With the machine turned off you can here the switch click when slowly opening and closing the door if the switch is close enough to the hing. Does the lower light of the candle stay lit on top of the machine with the door closed?

rokgpsman · « **Reply #17 on:** November 05, 2015, 06:41:37 AM »

Some additional info: on your MPU board there is mounted a small board with a battery. The battery is the long white cylinder, looks like yours has the original style. I didn't see any battery leakage in your photo but it is always a good idea to check them carefully when you first get a machine, as any leakage can damage circuit boards. The small board the battery is mounted to is the CMOS memory board, it keeps bookkeeping and financial data such as number of coins played, coins paidout, etc. Others can say for sure but I think you can safely remove the battery and the machine will still play. You can check the battery with a meter, they should measure about 3.0 to 3.5 volts dc.

Your MPU board is the older series 1000 board, they later made a series 2000 MPU board. ~~If you ever need to you can replace your MPU with one of the series 2000 boards, they are compatible and often easier to find.~~ [Edit, see correcting posts below]

The ribbon cables (gray wires) connect to a connector on the board for signals to and from the other boards in the machine, like the I/O and Win Meter display boards. The connector attached to the end of the ribbon cable has small flat pins that are short and can be bent easily.

The ic's on the MPU that have labels contain your game software. They are installed in sockets so you can replace them fairly easily if needed or you want different software in the machine.

The machine may have been converted to quarters, it looks like a quarter is installed in the coin comparitor (not sure, hard to tell in the photo) but the belly glass says "5 cents". Or it may have always been a quarter machine and someone replaced the belly glass with whatever they could find.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #18 on:** November 05, 2015, 06:53:10 AM »

<non-relevant comment deleted>

Amechanic · « **Reply #19 on:** November 05, 2015, 01:34:59 PM »

Quote from: rokgpsman on November 05, 2015, 06:41:37 AM

Your MPU board is the older series 1000 board, they later made a series 2000 MPU board. If you ever need to you can replace your MPU with one of the series 2000 boards, they are compatible and often easier to find.

This is not true.. I'm not an expert but I know that you can't just swap a 1000 MPU with a 2000 MPU. I don't know the whole reasons why, but there are a few slight differences. One has to do with the hopper and the relay boards found in the E1000 next to the beau plug.
I had one machine that was an E1000 series and wouldn't payout on a higher jackpot. It had been switched to a later model E2000 MPU.. Once a E1000 MPU was installed it paid out on the larger jackpot.

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Author Topic: Bally E-1240-4 Help needed (Read 10368 times)