I wanna build a GameKing...starting from scratch...need a cabinet!

[Stayouttadabunker]

I tried a different touchscreen from a company called Danotech Company.
They have a touchscreen that's very alike to the 3M Microtouch screens.

Both use a 5-wire gold colored ribbon cable.Now get this...>>>


I cut off the 3M Microtouch cable (17-9191-204-01) and noticed that the center ribbon wasn't extended all the way to the 5-pin black Molex conector housing.

So I scraped off the end off the "gold" plasticized covering that protects the thin trace inside of the ribbon harness.
Lo and behold, IGT does NOT extend the center trace into the Molex!
I think this is because the circuit board is already getting it's 13V power from the 2-pin harness from the MB as in the Reply #31 diagram.

I was wondering why the Danotech touchscreen wasn't communicating touches back through the 5-pin wiring that goes back to the MB!
Every time I touched the Danotech screen, the red LED lamp on the touchscreen circuit board would slightly dim.
That is "normal" for it is a way for the tech to test to see if the touches on the screen are communicating back to the circuit board.
The touches are communicating to the circuit board but not back to the MB!

The only thing I suspect now is that the configuration of the screens outer perimeter embedded traces for the capacitive field screen are different.
I taped up the Microtouch screen I busted temporarily now and will test the traces on the broken screen to see which traces head back into the ribbon cable. 
I'm gunna get this puppy running one way or another! 

[Stayouttadabunker]

Okay, upon research, I've found that the Game King uses 4 wire 3M capacitive touchscreens even though they utilize a 5-ribbon cable - they just don't use the center trace in the ribbon.
The Danotech touchscreen I found laying around needs to use all 5 traces.
So I'm thinking that the Danotech screen needs 13V for the center trace to power up the top-layer but the IGT circuit board doesn't have the capabilities to read it - it is a resistive touchscreen....different tech.

The fundamental difference between the two is, in the 5-wire construction, all the electrodes are on the bottom layer and the top layer acts as a voltage-measuring probe.

The other simple difference is that you can "draw" on the 4 wire screen...such as drawing along what cards you'd like to HOLD in poker.

The Danotech screen is used more for like cashiers in restaurant hitting particular prices for for food orders - they have to actually slightly "press" the screen.

Below are 2 Microtouch boards....anybody have any info these?
Both are IGT Microtouch's but I definitely see that there's differences.
I think the top one is for Reel Touch games?
There's a VGA header on it possibly for a separate tobox touchscreen?
Anyway, top photo is P/N 75431200, bottom photo is P/N 75433200...>>>

[marcdavis]

Hey Stayouttadabunker - any luck getting your touchscreen to work? I am in a similar situation; rebuilding a very old gameking with a broken crt; OEM LCD 19" touchscreens are very expensive; tried going down the same path as you with the resistive touch screen and could not make it work with the IGT capacitive controllers (if you did get it to work plz let me know!); I just ordered a replacement 3M capacitive touch screen which should plug directly into one of several netplex touch controllers I now own.


Would have been great if we could have gotten a resistive touchscreen to work; they are much cheaper to work with.


Marc

[Stayouttadabunker]

oh yeah....got them going...I just used any plain 19" LCD and taped a 19" touchscreen by the edges over it.
The tricky part is the configuration of the 5 wires from the ribbon cable to the board plug.
What you have to do is solder tin the 5 wires first, then push the 5 wires from the NOVRAM board plug into the ribbon Molex and then go into the "DRAW" mode of the calibration.

Draw a circle with your finger in each quadrant.
 Then draw an "X".
If you get "eggs" for the circles and half moon circles for the "X", then you must change 2 wires to a different location on the Molex plug.
Change pairs of wire systematically until you get the touchscreen to react to your 4 quad circles and "X" drawing and you'll be good to go!
The orange and gray twisted pair of wires are not needed.

The reason why I had to do it this way is because the color coding of the 5 wires is different for the various makes and models of touchscreens.

Total cost for a working 19" LCD touchscreen for my Game King?
About $40!
Picked up and old LCD monitor from a computer parts repair shop for $25 and bought a used IGT MicroTouch circuit board on ebay for about $15.
I was lucky it came with the NOVRAM plug...made it easier than not having one.
But I realized that if I just used a multimeter on the pins and looked for continuity to the TS ribbon Molex, I really didn't even need a NOVRAM plug.

I don't know if I got got lucky getting a capacitive TS or what but it worked....just the configuration of the 5 wires was wrong.
Instead of re-pulling pins out the connecting Molex all the time to change wiring configurations, I just cut the Molex off and tinned the ends to stick into the TS ribbon Molex....was much easier to change them around to get the drawing correct
.
Also, I never looked into the differences all that much.
All I know is that some company called Betson sells them but they very costly.
I think it was like almost $200 w/shipping just for a 19" TS alone without the LCD.
Forget Suzo-Happs....they have them marked up 200 % or more.

It's so much more nicer playing with the larger LCD screens...I'm probably going back to the computer repair shop and shop around for a 21" or 22" inch desktop screen next time for my Game King Frankenstein! haha

[marcdavis]

So you don't know if the touchscreen you added to the monitor was resistive or capactive? If the latter is makes sense that it worked with the IGT microtouch board. I'm going to be trying later today with a resisitive touch panel and I was wondering if I am wasting my time trying to patch the 4 lines into the controller; not sure how it will react to the signals as one measures capacitance changes and the other voltage resistance. I'd sure like a cheaper solution!

[marcdavis]

Also - can I ask the make/model of your touchscreen and where you acquired it? thx!
Marc

[marcdavis]

oh yeah....got them going...I just used any plain 19" LCD and taped a 19" touchscreen by the edges over it.
The tricky part is the configuration of the 5 wires from the ribbon cable to the board plug.
What you have to do is solder tin the 5 wires first, then push the 5 wires from the NOVRAM board plug into the ribbon Molex and then go into the "DRAW" mode of the calibration.

Draw a circle with your finger in each quadrant.
 Then draw an "X".
If you get "eggs" for the circles and half moon circles for the "X", then you must change 2 wires to a different location on the Molex plug.
Change pairs of wire systematically until you get the touchscreen to react to your 4 quad circles and "X" drawing and you'll be good to go!
The orange and gray twisted pair of wires are not needed.

The reason why I had to do it this way is because the color coding of the 5 wires is different for the various makes and models of touchscreens.

Total cost for a working 19" LCD touchscreen for my Game King?
About $40!
Picked up and old LCD monitor from a computer parts repair shop for $25 and bought a used IGT MicroTouch circuit board on ebay for about $15.
I was lucky it came with the NOVRAM plug...made it easier than not having one.
But I realized that if I just used a multimeter on the pins and looked for continuity to the TS ribbon Molex, I really didn't even need a NOVRAM plug.

I don't know if I got got lucky getting a capacitive TS or what but it worked....just the configuration of the 5 wires was wrong.
Instead of re-pulling pins out the connecting Molex all the time to change wiring configurations, I just cut the Molex off and tinned the ends to stick into the TS ribbon Molex....was much easier to change them around to get the drawing correct
.
Also, I never looked into the differences all that much.
All I know is that some company called Betson sells them but they very costly.
I think it was like almost $200 w/shipping just for a 19" TS alone without the LCD.
Forget Suzo-Happs....they have them marked up 200 % or more.

It's so much more nicer playing with the larger LCD screens...I'm probably going back to the computer repair shop and shop around for a 21" or 22" inch desktop screen next time for my Game King Frankenstein! haha

Can you clarify something- did you connect the touchscreen ribbon cable to the IGT netplex microtouch controller board or did you wire the serial output (RS-232) wires directly to the 19 (or 25) pin monitor connector - and effectively bypassing the controller?


If the latter - can you share some pics and more details?? very interested in what you came up with. I'll share some pics of where I am at later today.


Thanks in advance.


Marc

[Stayouttadabunker]

I connected the TS ribbon cable to the 5 wires coming out of the NOVRAM plug on the IGT touchscreen controller board (the newet board...not the older CRT controller boards).

The main connector has 19-pins.
Looking at it, it seems to only utilize 14 pins total out of 19 holes?
I guess it's the 19-pin connector because  I haven't seen a 25-pin connector.
This seems to use 2 pins for power (Black/Brown and solid Red) for the controller board, 5 pins for the TS circuit controller board,  a single pin for the large green/yellow ground cable, and 6 pins for the VGA plug.

 I can only show you photos of what I did later on this evening...I'm gone golfing....lol

[Stayouttadabunker]

Okay....I took a couple of pictures for you Marc.

In the 1st photo, you cn see that I've taken off the NOVRAM plug from the IGT p/n 75431200 controller board and taped it to hold it there for the photo.
It's hard to see but I wrote on the bottom of the NOVRAM white plug -  the configuration of the NOVRAM pins for it's 12 pins.
I do not know which is pin #1...so for the sake of things, let's call it 1 to 6 on top, and 7 to 12 on the bottom row.

#1 Blue, #2 Red, #3 Brown, #4 Earth Ground (Small green wire that grounds to the chassis), #5 Not Used, #6 Not Used.
#7 Black, #8 White, #9 Orange, #10 Gray, #11 Not Used, #12 Not Used.
Remember, the twisted gray and orange is not used.

Now at the other end that connects to the TS ribbon Molex in the 2nd photo, I also don't know which pin is number 1.
I put any color wire I had laying around in there to make a connector to the ribbon cable.
You can see that I have...>>>

#1 Yellow, #2 Black, #3 Brown, #4 Orange, #5 Red on the Black ribbon cable Molex housing connector.

Those colors aren't important but we will use it to make the Yellow wire as Pin#1 okay?
You can see that I have the slotted press pin in the UP position on top of the black Molex connection to the ribbon cable.

The configuration that works for this is as follows...>>>

#1 Red, #2 Blue, #3 Brown, #4 Black, #5 White.
 
Again, the twisted pair of Gray & Orange from the NOVRAM isn't needed.
I hope this helps.
The 19" LCD is a plain ol' Makvision monitor but that really doesn't matter.
You can use anything 19" as long as it's the same size as your touchscreen?
I wish I could give you the touchscreen model number of mine but it's buried somewhere along the edge of all the tape I used to attach the TS to the top of the LCD monitor and I really don't want to take it off.
The number may be on the ribbon cable itself too but that is also under a metal cover for the LCD circuit board.
It's very possible the UN-used twisted Gray & Orange wires are for "resistive" touchscreens? I don't know.

Apparently, I noticed that the Brown wire from the NOVRAM always seems to  end up in the middle pin of the 5-pin Molex on both of my Game King touchscreens.
That means really you only need to to mess with the two outside pairs of wiring to get the TS to draw correctly.

Click on any photo to make larger if needed...>>>

[marcdavis]

Stayouttadabunker - can't thank you enough for all of the details and the pics. It cleared a lot of things up; pretty sure you got lucky with your touchscreen and that it is capacitive; The novram plugs are pretty common on that series of 3M/microtouch panels.
[/size]
[/size]My resistive panel test went pretty much exactly the way I thought it would - no touchy. But I have secured a 3M/Microtouch panel that will work with the controllers I have so for this game I should be good.
[/size]
[/size]Again - thank you for the info; myself and others appreciate it. I'll be posting pics of my refurb on the other thread I have running in the forum.
[/size]
[/size]Marc
[/size]

[Stayouttadabunker]

You're welcome...even though I needed a magnifying glass to read what you wrote... 

[marcdavis]

LOL - I don't know how that happened!


Marc