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Author Topic: Bally Continental, No Pay Out  (Read 1989 times)

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Offline wolftalk

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Re: Bally Continental, No Pay Out
« Reply #20 on: October 02, 2020, 09:49:47 PM »
super continental is a model 891


paperwork for the 891-1 is on http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/.  The schem is the w-1046-1025* file.  The half unreadble w-1046-1584* file is the molex plug version of the machine.


the 891 had versions for coin only, credit only, and coin/credit selectable by a key switch.  I probably have other 891 schematics is you post the full model number off the plate below the handle.


yell if the schem isn't all the info you need.

Offline sbmania

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Re: Bally Continental, No Pay Out
« Reply #21 on: October 07, 2020, 11:32:27 AM »
Many thanks Wolftalk!  The schematic was a huge help!  Turned out there were several sets of points that I had cleaned several times, yet they were not making good contact.  Using the schematic, I went from points to points shorting with the tip of a screwdriver until I found the problems.  Those points can be really tough to get adjusted correctly!  Maybe they burn in over the years and resist being filed?


On another note, my 2 coin pays are erratic due to the end of the trace on the hopper payout wheel being burned away.  Any suggestions on how to fix?  I usually get a 1 pay or no pay on a 2 coin winner.

Offline wolftalk

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Re: Bally Continental, No Pay Out
« Reply #22 on: October 08, 2020, 06:48:16 AM »
if you have the 891-1, the payout disc will have "M-645-156  REVISED 10-4-72".  Diagram below.


first thing I'd try is to find another payout disc.  Barry at Fox Slots or another slot parts supplier may have that one, and there's always ebay.


an M-645-118 may work depending on the payouts needed on your game.


I don't see how the 50 pay works using the M-645-156 disc unless the upper/right CO trace is connected to the 50 pay...got pictures of your disc?  Pics may not help if the magic is wiring on the back side,


anyway, if you can't find a replacement payout disc, I'd seen kludgy repairs to the traces using copper foil.  Silver epoxy may also work, but is way more expensive than finding a replacement disc.


ideally you don't want to file the contacts unless they are badly pitted.  Something like a flexstone or just alcohol will clean off any crud and it's the overtravel of the blades after the contacts touch that make a good mechanical connections.  Make sure the switch stack screws are snugged down first, then the switch blade adjusters the pinball parts people sell make life easy.




 

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