Bally e2000 slot machine HELP

[inobmaz]

New to the forum and slots.  I bough an e2000 slot machine with problems.  The LED indicator doesn't turn, the coin goes straight to the tray and can't pull the handle.  The good news is I have a manual, and the machine lights power on.  I did try to reboot the machine from the hopper board with no response.  Any help is greatly appreciated. 


Let me know I can include photos. 


 

[Amechanic]

Hello and welcome to Mew Life Games..

First thing I do with the Bally E Series machines is to check the power supply plug for burnt connections, (I'll post a pic of one I just repaired)... Look for burnt or dark coloring of the plug. Then if you have a voltage meter check the out put test loops of the power supply for voltages. Hook the black lead the GRD, then test the other 3 loops for voltage. You should see about 5v, 7.5v, and 10v on the 3 test loops.  Next check your fuses.. Both the fuse and power supply are located in the back wall behind the hopper. Easiest way to check the fuses and fuse holders is to remove the whole fuse block, two screws or nuts hold it in place, then unplug it from the wiring harness. Check your fuses with the meter, and inspect the fuse holders them self. They can crack or break the metal pieces inside the fuse holder. If this machine has been sitting for a long time the reel mech assembly will need to be cleaned and oiled. There are a few cross shafts that have pivot arms and other linkages that must move freely to operate. Also the very first thing to check is the condition of the power cord. Since they come in the bottom of the machine they tend to get cut up and exposed wires. Check and repair as needed. Post pictures of you new toy.

Gary

[inobmaz]

Thanks Gary!  I will take some photos tonight. 

[Amechanic]

I just realized I forgot to post the picture of the power supply plug I just replaced..

[inobmaz]

Gary didnt see any discoloring on the plug.  I will check the voltage soon.  Here are some photos. 

[Amechanic]

Check the condition of the solder joints on the back of your power supply where the plug connects. The tend to develope crack due to heat cycles. Those cracks cause heat in which melts the plugs. Check your pier cord and fuses next.

[Badbaud]

Sounds like your MPU board is dead.
Check the battery on the MPU board and make sure it is at least 3.5VDC, replace if not.
Re-seat the EPROMS and any other chips.

[Amechanic]

Sounds like your MPU board is dead.
Check the battery on the MPU board and make sure it is at least 3.5VDC, replace if not.
Re-seat the EPROMS and any other chips.

Isn't it true that the Bally E1000 series and E2000 do not need there battery's to operate? They are used to retain the book keeping information on the machine. I do agree with reseating the eproms on the board. I was giving basic startup thing to check on a new machine.

[inobmaz]

Thanks guys.  I reseated the eproms on the power supply.  The LED read out is now workin! Next step run through the tests.  Have more info soon. 

[Amechanic]

Thanks guys.  I reseated the eproms on the power supply.  The LED read out is now workin! Next step run through the tests.  Have more info soon.

Greatg news that your making progress. Run test 2, that will cycle thru all the bulbs and solenoids.

[rokgpsman]

.....  I reseated the eproms on the power supply.  The LED read out is now workin! ...

The power supply has eproms??   

[inobmaz]

Sorry new to some of the terms.  I reseated the plug that connects to the power supply. 

[Amechanic]

Sorry new to some of the terms.  I reseated the plug that connects to the power supply.

The connector in the plugs are tin plated. What happens over time is that the header pins and plug connectors tarnish. Taking the plug and in and off a couple times helps to clean the plugs. Using a pink eraser on the pins works great.

[inobmaz]

Great idea tricks of the trade. 

[Badbaud]

Sounds like your MPU board is dead.
Check the battery on the MPU board and make sure it is at least 3.5VDC, replace if not.
Re-seat the EPROMS and any other chips.

Isn't it true that the Bally E1000 series and E2000 do not need there battery's to operate? They are used to retain the book keeping information on the machine. I do agree with reseating the eproms on the board. I was giving basic startup thing to check on a new machine.

Nope. The battery must be in and working.

[ramegoom]

I use the Ebay lithium 3.6V battery on all of my E2000 CPU boards. They are larger than the original NiCad batteries but have a massively-long shelf life holding the charge when the machine is powered off.
I solder short wires on each end, solder directly to the board and call it a day. Just be sure it's a rechargeable Li Ion battery, cost is about $4:

[Amechanic]

Sounds like your MPU board is dead.
Check the battery on the MPU board and make sure it is at least 3.5VDC, replace if not.
Re-seat the EPROMS and any other chips.

Isn't it true that the Bally E1000 series and E2000 do not need there battery's to operate? They are used to retain the book keeping information on the machine. I do agree with reseating the eproms on the board. I was giving basic startup thing to check on a new machine.

Nope. The battery must be in and working.

Ok my mistake.

[Badbaud]

I use the Ebay lithium 3.6V battery on all of my E2000 CPU boards. They are larger than the original NiCad batteries but have a massively-long shelf life holding the charge when the machine is powered off.
I solder short wires on each end, solder directly to the board and call it a day. Just be sure it's a rechargeable Li Ion battery, cost is about $4:

Do some research. If you don't remove the 5V charge circuit the battery will eventually blow up. I just spent 2 hours removing a blowed up battery mess from a board. As the Li-Ion battery loses it's ability to keep it's 3.7v the 5V charge circuit will burn up the battery. You are suppose to remove the 100 Ohm charging resistor and drop in a diode to isolate the battery from the charge circuit.

[ramegoom]

I *did* the research, and I previously posted the info that you're referring to.

Your advice relative to ONLY if you're not using a rechargeable battery. I use rechargeable Lithium batteries, and there is no chance of explosion or overheating. IF you use a standard source lithium battery, then yes, you need to remove the resistor and add a diode next to it, as shown here:


Personally, I prefer to use the rechargeable battery instead, not the one shown avove. You don't need to worry about eventual depletion and it can take the trickle charge indefinitely.

[Badbaud]

This is where I found the info

http://science.energy.gov/~/media/wdts/nsb/pdf/Lithium%20Ion%20Battery%20Kits%20Information/Safety-Hazards-of-Batteries.pdf

I agree, the Li-Ion are safer to charge but would recommend a socket and not soldering to the battery.

Considering their higher current rating, if you don't charge them they will still last for years without even seeing a charging voltage so the diode may still be a good option.