Author Topic: S+ slant top not accepting coins (Read 5035 times)

slug54 · « **on:** July 18, 2016, 02:57:33 PM »

Hello,
I have been working on repairing an S+ five times pay slant top. I had to repair a burnt power supply connector and replace the MPU board and a bad reel Eprom. It now powers up and does the initial spin of the reels and insert coin is lit and there are no errors but coins just pass right through and are rejected. If I press the little button on the comparitor it adds a credit and I can spin the reels. It currently has a token in the comparitor and I have tried adjusting the sensitivity pot but so far have had no luck.
If anyone can give me some help with this I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
-Jeff

Crash0 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 18, 2016, 03:01:26 PM »

have you tried re-seating the comparitor?

Shaggy · « **Reply #2 on:** July 18, 2016, 03:07:05 PM »

Maybe the optics are dirty.

slug54 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 18, 2016, 03:22:24 PM »

Thanks for the quick replies,
I have removed it and re-seated it. I will open it up and clean the optics and see if that helps.
Should the LED on the front of the comparitor be off during normal operation?
-Jeff

Jim · « **Reply #4 on:** July 18, 2016, 03:29:01 PM »

one test will tell all, input test, should be 10,11,12_1, remove cc-16, use a Popsicle type stick, move it through the optics they should all change to a 0, if they do then your problem is more than likely the cc-16 itself. when you press the white button, 11_1 should change to 11_0.

Jim

Shaggy · « **Reply #5 on:** July 18, 2016, 03:31:17 PM »

On mine the light is off when the door is open.

Crash0 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 18, 2016, 03:44:49 PM »

I know, silly question, do you have right coin in compartor, and is it inserted properly. I have had that happen.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #7 on:** July 18, 2016, 04:55:57 PM »

Could be the solenoid on the coin rake is disconnected or not working. You could wire the rake open to let all coins thru as long as coin optics work

knagl · « **Reply #8 on:** July 19, 2016, 07:48:50 AM »

I don't think the optics are the issue here. All coins are getting rejected back to the player, so they're never reaching the optics.

You said you tried adjusting the sensitivity pot. That's where I would have started, too. Just make sure you've adjusted it all the way counter-clockwise (away from the +) to make it less likely to reject coins. I like to dial it all the way away from the +, and then just a 1/4 turn back towards the +.

Is the "Insert Coins" lamp lit?

I would also try a different token in there, making sure it's seated properly. For testing purposes, you could also substitute a quarter and try dropping quarters in.

When the door is open, the LED on the comparator is off. The only time the LED is on is when the door is closed and the machine is ready to accept a coin, so chances are you won't ever see the LED lit.

Do you have a different comparator (same model) you can swap in to try and isolate the issue?

slug54 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 19, 2016, 01:31:50 PM »

Hey thanks for all the great suggestions.
I am currently waiting for my replacement reel eprom to arrive so I can't really test much until that gets here.
I can swap an eprom out from another game if it doesn't arrive in the next day or two so I can test some of this.
There is a token in the comparator and does appear to be seated properly. I did try it with a quarter in the comparator and got the same results. The insert coin lamp is lit. I am not sure if they are a match or not but I do have a PE+ slant top machine that has a similar comparator that I may be able to test with. I will take a look at it when I get home and see if they are the same.

slug54 · « **Reply #10 on:** July 22, 2016, 12:28:43 PM »

Okay, Got the reel eprom replaced so I can get back to working on the coin mech. I tried it again this time with a quarter in the comparator and got the same results. I tried it with the coin rake held open and the coin did go in the hopper but it generated a 21 error. I tried to do the Popsicle stick test that Jim suggested but I could get no 1 to 0 change on the display. Not 100% sure how to do this so I also tried it on a working RWB and did not see anything there either.Am I supposed to completely remove the CC-16 for this test or just remove the connectors. I'm going to try to swap whole unit with my PE+ poker if they are the same and see what happens. -Jeff

Jim · « **Reply #11 on:** July 22, 2016, 01:38:11 PM »

if they are both slant tops you should be able to do that. to do that test: you have to get into the diagnostic tests, input test, first thing on the display should be 10_0 or a 1, remove the cc-16, now, place the stick down through the area where the coin would normally pass, there are three holes in the black plastic piece, each hole represents an optic, 10_1 is optic #1, 11_1 is optic #2, and 12_1 is optic #3. if you get no change on 10_1(my money is on that ) advance the test to 11_1 and repeat the process, it should change to a 0. also press the small test button on the optic board and it should toggle it as well, now advance it to test 12_1, repeat the process, it should also toggle.

hope this helps

Jim

slug54 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 22, 2016, 05:27:34 PM »

Thanks for the clarification Jim.
I was able to swap the mech and comparitor between this machine and my PE+ poker.
the good unit out of the PE+ did the same thing in this machine and the suspect coin mech worked fine in the PE+.
So that means it was nothing to do with the comparitor or mech. When messing with the PE+ and seeing on the screen "Door Open" got me thinking that on this machine there is no indication if the door is open or closed. So I checked a S+ RWB machine to see what it does with the door open and it basically blanks the display except for the coins played field (I think). Then when the door is closed it blanks all the displays for about 5 seconds and then they return to normal. So I started checking the connectors for the door sensors and that looked good but what I did find was the if I put a lot of pressure on the right side of the door lid when locking it the display would blank like the S+ does and then the displays would come up normal and would accept coins just fine. Thanks everyone for your help with this and all the great troubleshooting info.
-Jeff

jay · « **Reply #13 on:** July 22, 2016, 09:36:00 PM »

If you suspect door optics......

You can use a digital camera to see if they are working.
Although the optic light is not visible to the naked eye a digital camera or camera phone will show the optic pulsing a light.

knagl · « **Reply #14 on:** July 22, 2016, 10:06:19 PM »

Quote from: slug54 on July 22, 2016, 05:27:34 PM

what I did find was the if I put a lot of pressure on the right side of the door lid when locking it the display would blank like the S+ does and then the displays would come up normal and would accept coins just fine.

Sounds like your main door (hatch) optics aren't quite aligned properly (or there's something physically preventing the door from closing all the way down, since pressing down harder on it gets the optics to align). Check for the obvious first like a lot of debris in the track where the door swings shut that may be holding the hatch open too high. Also, check the optics (they're a pair -- one fixed to the inside of the machine at about the center of the armrest, the other mounted on the hatch door which is supposed to line up with the one in the machine when the door is closed) to make sure they're secured correctly and appear to align when the door is closed.

slug54 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 24, 2016, 05:25:45 AM »

There's definitely something wrong with the door. If I just close the door and lock it with normal pressure the right side appears to be about 1/4" higher than the left in relation to the side panels. I'm going to take a good look at the mechanics of it today and see if I can get it to close and align the optics better. Thanks for your help with this. -Jeff

therockinelvis · « **Reply #16 on:** July 24, 2016, 06:11:30 AM »

Very often the screws on the hinge get loose. I have seen where the door cable has been broken and the door swings open too far and bends the hinge. As long as your door is closing and latching easily a simple alignment of your cabinet optic is easiest. I like to remove the reel glass so I can see both optics and slide it into position then open the door for final tightening. You can do it without removing the reel glass by placing a piece of painters tape on the door and cabinet, then make a mark where the optic is, then close the door to determine how much to move it. Good Luck, you're almost done.

knagl · « **Reply #17 on:** July 24, 2016, 12:53:57 PM »

Quote from: slug54 on July 24, 2016, 05:25:45 AM

There's definitely something wrong with the door. If I just close the door and lock it with normal pressure the right side appears to be about 1/4" higher than the left in relation to the side panels.

Sounds like that's your issue, especially if the optics then align when you add pressure to the right side that's sticking up.

slots4home · « **Reply #18 on:** July 24, 2016, 01:39:24 PM »

Just to clarify
Their is a latch that covers the pin that releases the bottom door
Did you slide the latch over to cover that pin?
Sorry if this was discussed earlier

therockinelvis · « **Reply #19 on:** July 24, 2016, 04:30:33 PM »

Oop's. Just noticed slant top. What I said about aligning the optics was for an upright. Feeling a bit goofy right now.

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Author Topic: S+ slant top not accepting coins (Read 5035 times)