Author Topic: Display going out (Read 5939 times)

therockinelvis · « **on:** September 18, 2014, 05:30:56 PM »

For weeks I have had the problem of the display going blank then coming back on and booting again. It seemed that latching the door was the problem as every time it would do it. I shook and pulled on all wiring but could not pin it down. I banged my hand on the side of the machine and out it went. Kept checking and finally found that wiggling the mpu tray would do it every time. Not pulling on it just finger pressure sideways. Decided to change mpu and tray and all seemed good until game type mis-match came up. Tried putting original board back in and same message. I think I remember this being something in game setup. Should I just go ahead and do a full clear then set everything again?

foster · « **Reply #1 on:** September 18, 2014, 06:13:22 PM »

When you insert a MPU and turn on
the MPU checks a few things during memory tests:
Processor board number, yes each one has a unique serial number
SG Game chip
SB Base chip
VS Version
SS chip - S+ reel chip

f none match then the MPU will display the corresponding error
All you have to do it press the test switch a few times and turn the jackpot key and close door just like you do in a game change

Keep that clear chip as far away from the machine as possible

Next time you get a display problem just push in on the MPU firmly.
Consider changing the motherboard/back plane if you still have issues with the display going out.
If you do replace the motherboard/back plane swap the Serial EEPROM 24C16 to the replacement so you do not have to set up things again.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #2 on:** September 19, 2014, 01:40:59 AM »

Thanks Foster, I did get those messages and turned the key and pushed the button. Right after maiden reel spin is when mismatch came up alternating door M open. Even after putting original board back in. There must be a problem with the original board since it was not making good contact. It was pushed in firmly. The vibration from door latch and pushing max. bet would make it wiggle and then lose display and once door was opened again it would come on and start booting again and being a vision it takes more than regular 30 second boot.

foster · « **Reply #3 on:** September 19, 2014, 04:17:36 AM »

Sounds like you are putting a different set of SG, SB and VS chips in when you try another MPU.

Try not to introduce other issues by moving the correct chips to the replacement MPU.

That way it only see's the processor ID change and also so the top box computer boots correctly.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #4 on:** September 19, 2014, 12:39:11 PM »

I know better than that. I used the same chips that were original with the exception of the cmos that were already on board. Even switched them.

foster · « **Reply #5 on:** September 19, 2014, 04:15:16 PM »

Is the display that is out the top box computer or one of the two on the door?

therockinelvis · « **Reply #6 on:** September 19, 2014, 05:35:41 PM »

It is the vfd and display on right. I went to settings and machine had changed to unknown, set to upright. Denomination was blank, set to .25. Now it boots up. Still same problem. Lightest tap on machine like smacking the max bet button makes displays go out then come back and start booting again. I pushed tray all the way in then pulled back very slight and it is better. Will change tray and board again to see if that stops it. I'm leaning toward the back plane which I have no extra of. Guess I could put board and rfa card in another machine to see if it follows the board.

foster · « **Reply #7 on:** September 19, 2014, 06:29:00 PM »

When You mentioned display initially I was thinking VFD and or LED display but I wanted to make sure

Even if you do not have a replacement you can extract it and inspect it for connector and trace issues.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #8 on:** September 20, 2014, 05:17:46 AM »

It looks like it is a pain to get the back plane out.

foster · « **Reply #9 on:** September 20, 2014, 06:13:20 AM »

One screw holds the tray cover in place, Front bottom there is a hole in the cover so you an insert a screwdriver
take the Cabinet I/O loose as well, two nuts secure it.
the cover will slide forward and up just enough for you get it out.
Screws secure the back plane board.

Retro tech repair · « **Reply #10 on:** September 20, 2014, 07:24:13 AM »

did you make sure the power supply is securely tightened into place?

therockinelvis · « **Reply #11 on:** September 20, 2014, 08:37:17 AM »

Quote from: foster on September 20, 2014, 06:13:20 AM

One screw holds the tray cover in place, Front bottom there is a hole in the cover so you an insert a screwdriver
take the Cabinet I/O loose as well, two nuts secure it.
the cover will slide forward and up just enough for you get it out.
Screws secure the back plane board.

Thanks. That will make it so easy to take apart. And yes I checked the power supply first.

cowboygames · « **Reply #12 on:** September 20, 2014, 04:21:04 PM »

If you end up needing a backplane I probably have one laying around, let me know...

therockinelvis · « **Reply #13 on:** September 20, 2014, 06:54:53 PM »

I called John at Rudy's and he is sending one. Thanks

cowboygames · « **Reply #14 on:** September 20, 2014, 07:34:49 PM »

No problem, thanks for giving John some business

therockinelvis · « **Reply #15 on:** September 21, 2014, 05:50:59 AM »

I was shocked to have 3 extra tray's with boards but no back planes.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #16 on:** September 27, 2014, 06:32:36 PM »

OK for anyone looking for my fix. It was the back plane board. I replaced it and now the MPU slides in and it is actually snug as they slide together unlike before very loose. Not a HONEYMOON fit at all.

foster · « **Reply #17 on:** September 27, 2014, 09:50:12 PM »

Glad you have it working perfectly now

So the Amphenol board connections have become loose.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #18 on:** September 28, 2014, 04:05:38 PM »

John, sent me 2 different boards. A 960 stepper and a stepper video. Only noticed 1 difference at the bill validator connection. They go different directions. I am thinking either can be used as I have converted regular S2000's to Vision and had no problems

therockinelvis · « **Reply #19 on:** October 01, 2014, 05:24:51 PM »

OK guy's, I thought I had it. Plays just fine over and over. Bet 1, 2, or 3 and pull the handle and out goes the display and the machine spends the next 2.5 minutes booting again. So must be something with the wiring around it. I remember Steve (buybest) changing the wba and fixing his. So I guess I'll start by removing it to examine the pull arm mech.

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Author Topic: Display going out (Read 5939 times)