Author Topic: Having multiple issues with a simple game change... (Read 8293 times)

shortrackskater · « **on:** October 26, 2014, 10:36:19 AM »

I decided to swap out my boring "5 Star" game with "5 Times Pay Wild" that I recently bought. BOTH games were working perfectly - no issues. I swap out glass and reels, then I put in the game chips from the 5 Times Pay in the MPU that formerly was 5 Star.
I put in the CLEAR chip and get through all the setting with no problem.
I did the proper procedure (from NLG) and put in the base chip, then the SET chip. Everything goes fine...then I'm ready to try the game and I get "MB DOOR" error. The door is closed. I checked the optics and made sure they were lined up. They were... the door NEVER had any issues ever. I just opened and closed this door last week multiple times... no problem.
For the heck of it, I did another clear... same thing but now I can't get past the CLOSE MAIN DOOR command. I close the door and the error won't go away.
Can optics just "go bad" randomly like this?
I'm also getting REEL TILT errors (they seem close to the window but they are pushed back far as they can go!)
But, I know from helping people here, I need to start with one thing - so lets start with the main door error...ugh!

cowboygames · « **Reply #1 on:** October 26, 2014, 10:57:23 AM »

Any issues with the green battery? Optics can just go bad but I would suspect something else. And why did you clear it?

shortrackskater · « **Reply #2 on:** October 26, 2014, 11:03:07 AM »

Actually I didn't even know (and I should) if I needed to do one for a game swap so I just did it for fun...I just wanted to give myself a refresher course.

The green battery is there...I can't check right now - working until 6pm.

cowboygames · « **Reply #3 on:** October 26, 2014, 11:35:43 AM »

An intermittent door optics issue can throw reel tilts if the signal is lost during the maiden spin. Two possibilities are the optics themselves or trace pro lens under the green battery if it's a 500 series board and corroding. The belly door switch is part of the main door circuit so check that also

shortrackskater · « **Reply #4 on:** October 26, 2014, 08:48:50 PM »

Thanks
Home from work stuck with no internet, just phone. I did put the game and sb chips from this one to the other and it works fine . I'll try suggestions thanks! Hoping I have internet back tomorrow!

Okay late last night I pulled out the MPU on the problem machine and the green battery does have some corrosion on it. I'll check the voltage when I get home (and also HOPE I have internet back). I've read threads on this... I'm sure I can find the answer but, again, it's hard using a phone. ~~I believe I need that battery. I have the enhanced sound board on this one.~~
When I put the mpu back in, I was able go beyond the "MB door" error for a short time. It tried to work, then the display alternated back and forth with that error again and then finally STUCK on with the error.
~~How critical is the alignment with optics? I've never had an issue with any of mine. I drew a little mark on the door and cabinet to make sure they were aligned...~~

shortrackskater · « **Reply #5 on:** October 28, 2014, 09:42:56 AM »

JUST pressed SEND on a detailed summary here and got the DAMN ANNOYING "fatal error" from the site! Then I refresh and get the "you've already posted" message. I go back and my new post isn't there. Why does this happen?

Fatal error: Allowed memory size of 94371840 bytes exhausted (tried to allocate 11220 bytes) in /home/nlgcom/public_html/nlg/Sources/Subs-Graphics.php on line 412

shortrackskater · « **Reply #6 on:** October 28, 2014, 09:50:29 AM »

LETS TRY AGAIN...It won't be as funny or cleverly written.

Found trace damage. Can board be repaired? I understand the varta battery isn't needed unless I have and enhanced board. But why is the battery there in the first place?
I had a spare MPU (without the varta battery) and swapped it out. Everything works great... the door closure M error and reel tilt errors are all gone.
This Five Times Wild is MUCH more fun that my boring old "Five Star" game, especially with the wild symbol along with the five times symbol. When the Five Times game was in the old cabinet, it only had the basic sound. Now it's got the enhanced sound, which is great but I'm hearing new sounds playing "Five Times Wild" that I never heard in when it was the "Five Star" game.

cowboygames · « **Reply #7 on:** October 28, 2014, 10:03:16 AM »

On the 500 series board the green battery was for telltale equipment in the casino computer system. On the enhanced board itis needed to run. You could try installing jumper wires across the damaged traces though it can be a pain in the ass. It's up to you and your soldering capabilities as to whether you can make it work again or not, good luck. Glad you got it worked out and the game running!

CVslots · « **Reply #8 on:** October 28, 2014, 12:07:18 PM »

You can search the old site, but it seems like the wire used for trace repairs was 16gauge??? Wait, that seems too big huh...maybe it was 22gauge??? Heck, now I'm confusing myself!

foster · « **Reply #9 on:** October 28, 2014, 12:55:31 PM »

I believe 30 AWG is what is used for most trace repairs, 22 would be too big.

22 is size of wire used for 90 percent of the wiring harness.

rickhunter · « **Reply #10 on:** October 28, 2014, 02:05:41 PM »

Can't you use a conductive ink pen for this, I would think it would also work and it'd be a lot easier since you would just re-trace the existing traces.

CVslots · « **Reply #11 on:** October 28, 2014, 03:47:45 PM »

Thanks Foster! I just know its little bitty wire!

shortrackskater · « **Reply #12 on:** October 28, 2014, 04:22:46 PM »

Quote from: rickhunter on October 28, 2014, 02:05:41 PM

Can't you use a conductive ink pen for this, I would think it would also work and it'd be a lot easier since you would just re-trace the existing traces.

Thanks everyone. I didn't know a conductive ink pen existed!

shortrackskater · « **Reply #13 on:** October 28, 2014, 04:43:15 PM »

Quote from: cowboygames on October 28, 2014, 04:23:34 PM

If your board has a volume control wheel then it is a 10mhz board and volume can't be controlled through the menus. Check the speaker and wiring for operation and maybe spin the volume control back and forth several times if the speaker and wiring check out. You can check the speaker with an ohm meter, I would suspect it should show 8 ohms impedance based on the period it was made but could be 4 or 16 also.

Did you post on the wrong thread?

shortrackskater · « **Reply #14 on:** October 28, 2014, 04:52:24 PM »

Quote from: rickhunter on October 28, 2014, 02:05:41 PM

Can't you use a conductive ink pen for this, I would think it would also work and it'd be a lot easier since you would just re-trace the existing traces.

Found a trace writer at a local electronics store for $20... I could save a DOLLAR

and buy it from some unknown seller on Ebay, with lousy feedback, from Thailand!
No I'll get it locally and spend that extra buck!

But the top is conformal coated... I think. Should I just lightly sand the top where the traces are damaged? I've never done this before but I'd need to be checking for conductivity and/or lack of it. Now I need a "pen sander" for this job. I think I could make one those.

cowboygames · « **Reply #15 on:** October 28, 2014, 06:14:20 PM »

I scrape it off with the tip of an exact knife but whatever works to expose it. Reseal it with a thin coat of silicone

CVslots · « **Reply #16 on:** October 29, 2014, 02:45:52 PM »

Quote from: cowboygames on October 28, 2014, 06:14:20 PM

I scrape it off with the tip of an exact knife but whatever works to expose it. Reseal it with a thin coat of silicone

Clear fingernail polish will work in place of the silicone as well...

cowboygames · « **Reply #17 on:** October 29, 2014, 02:52:52 PM »

Good tip Roz! And easier to work with too

shortrackskater · « **Reply #18 on:** October 30, 2014, 11:09:10 PM »

Well fixing that board will be a project for a rainy day... if we ever get one here in California!

BUT... on that subject... I'm glad I learned about the leaky green battery! I thought I better check my very prized Double Top Dollar. I pulled out the MPU and there was a nice green battery just starting to leak. I fired up my soldering iron, and removed the battery. Thankfully NO damage under it. Traces all look good. And the machine works fine without it.
Thanks again everyone.

CVslots · « **Reply #19 on:** October 31, 2014, 10:17:10 AM »

Glad you got it off of there before any issues!

Sometimes, the symptoms start before the damage can be seen (at least with a naked eye).

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Author Topic: Having multiple issues with a simple game change... (Read 8293 times)