G20 - Battery replaced and now machine just reboots

[rickhunter]

IGT had a recall on the cable that connects the ATX power supply to the mpu.  It would get full of casino gunk and cause poor connections.  Sometimes just cleaning the contacts on the cable with detoxit or something similar will get rid of the board monitor tilt.

If you inserted the USB diagnostic key on a pc and it doesn't come up as a standard USB flash drive, then your drive is not in working condition.  In the future, if you get a working diagnostic key, never insert it into a pc or a mac as it will cause the validation issue as stuff gets automatically written into the drive, it can be fixed by removing the contents the OS wrote, but if it doesn't even come up as a standard flash drive in windows or MacOS, then you have a bad drive.  You also cannot get past validation errors until you have a properly formated SSD/HD inside the mpu or have a working diagnostic key to boot along with the ekey.  A bad diagnostic key results in the USB storage validation issue.

[Tilt]

And if Rick's suggestion to clean the contacts fails I have the correct one.  Brand New, well new old stock anyhow, but never used in a machine.  I'll let ya have it for $20 + $10 shipping.  It will fit in a USPS small flat rate box and they're charging I think almost $11 to ship one of those now.  I cut ya some slack on the board price so the marital issues don't get worse

[BigWick]

Verify your cabinet ribbon cable is not buggered. I've seen those with damaged ends cause reboots, if it wasn't throwing bizarre cabinet memory errors.
Pull the hard drive completely and try booting into diag. The USB failing authentication is one thing but I've yet to come across a system where it wouldn't at least boot into diagnostics with a drive pulled.

The ATX power supply just converts either 12v or 24v (I forget which one of the two it was) to the various voltage the CPU wants. I've been desperate enough to bypass it entirely for testing and just plug a regular ATX power supply in.

[rickhunter]

The USB failing authentication is because the diagnostic drive is bad, that is why he can't go into diagnostic, it doesn't matter if the internal hard drive is good or bad, that has nothing to do with a USB authentication failure.

[nlosure]

Verify your cabinet ribbon cable is not buggered. I've seen those with damaged ends cause reboots, if it wasn't throwing bizarre cabinet memory errors.
Pull the hard drive completely and try booting into diag. The USB failing authentication is one thing but I've yet to come across a system where it wouldn't at least boot into diagnostics with a drive pulled.

The ATX power supply just converts either 12v or 24v (I forget which one of the two it was) to the various voltage the CPU wants. I've been desperate enough to bypass it entirely for testing and just plug a regular ATX power supply in.

I appear to be the first, pulled drive, no luck, no diag screen.  Was hopeful on that so I could wipe out the ram, etc.  Any other ideas?

[nlosure]

So I disabled the logo on the bios.  Seems like the hard drive is ok and the key seems to authenticate.  Does anyone know what comes next?  Reboots immediately after.

[Tilt]

It's showing that it sees the Hitachi HDD, and next it's showing that it sees the USB device and that the USB device authenticates successfully. It's not showing the HDD authenticated.  What USB device was plugged in, the DIAG, Ekey, or both?   

[nlosure]

I had both the ekey and the diag drive plugged in.

[Tilt]

Ok, try it with just the Diag installed and see what it says.

[nlosure]

Stops here and reboots.  Off to validate CMOS.

[nlosure]

Matched BIOS settings with working G20, no luck.  There were a few setting changes that were not on the default bios.

[ChrisColumbus]

Here is my manual way of removing the "system volume information" from the diag USB. Remember every time you put it in your computer you must do this!

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=39548.0

[Tilt]

I was hoping for better news this morning.  I have a working Diag and new ATX power supply on the way, hopefully one or both of those will resolve this problem for you.  I'm running out of other ideas.

[nlosure]

So for conclusion on this thread. 

-replaced ribbon to CPU
-replaced PCI Card

I would try them in that order. 

Now to my Tito protocol issue 

[Retro tech repair]

Give RB's batch file a try and see if it works.

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=40441.msg213757#msg213757

Thats my file.

Edit: correction its not even really mine in the sense that i made it the code was found on a random site. That specific file tho is mine added it to the file share drive thats been making its rounds through the community.

[Tilt]

Fair enough.  He posted a link for it, so I said his batch file.  I didn't necessarily mean he was the author of it, just that he possessed it and shared it.  I always like to give credit where credit is due, but it's not always easy to determine where something originally came from.  Sometimes it's that way intentionally, other times not.  Anyways thanks.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Normally I just go in, and physically remove 1 byte file folders.
They'e petty easy to spot on older, small capacity CF cards.
That usually restores the CF cards back to where it was before it was inseted into Windows based computer with an OS newer than Win7.
There's too many of these 1 byte files on these larger cards tho. 
That program Retro Tech found should be much quicker and will definitely help restore a CF card I would imagine, I just haven't had a chance to run it yet.

[Tilt]

Well in this case we're talking about AVP machines and USB thumb drives, but if it works on CF cards too then great.