Author Topic: First Slot - Newbie here (Read 11282 times)

gwunited2 · « **on:** February 22, 2016, 04:09:39 PM »

Hello everyone,

I just picked up this machine. It's an IGT Wild Diamonds Slot produced in 8/94. From all the information gathered on this site, I've determined it's a S+ with a .25 coin mech and a DBV-45 (I'm pretty sure it'll only accept $1 bills). I say pretty sure because I haven't been able to play it. It does power up and I got the reels to reset so I'm pretty sure it functions.

It gave an error code of 12 so I ordered a 3.6v Lithium battery. Once I replace that I hope to determine if there are any other issues to address. If it works, I may want to upgrade the bill acceptor. Most on here say it's advisable to go to a WBA 12??? I've read up on it but have yet to find any thing that lists all the parts needed for the upgrade. I went to one supply site and the upgrade was priced at $225 or so. I don't want to pay that much for the upgrade and have read other people say it should cost closer to $100. Can anyone recommend the parts I need? Better yet, does anyone have the parts for sale?

Also, my machine doesn't have a candle/topper? I've seen a candle listed for about $15 but the wiring harness doesn't seem like it would hook up to the harness in my machine. Are they plug and play or will I have make my own harness/splice wiring? [size=78%]Included are pics of my machine. I have more if needed. Thanks in advance for your help and I look forward to hearing your input.[/size]

Thanks again,

Massey

slots4home · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2016, 04:22:56 PM »

Welcome to the site.
The best bill acceptor is the WBA for the splus. Good luck finding one but don't spend more than 100 for setup
You will need to get a different cash can, power supply, and inner housing along with the WBA and tracker
As far as the candle you may have one from a s2000 as the plug is different than a splus
I do have a candle if you need one but do not have the bill acceptor for you.
Did you get your machine working after the battery changeover?

gwunited2 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2016, 05:00:05 PM »

Quote from: slots4home on February 22, 2016, 04:22:56 PM

Welcome to the site.
The best bill acceptor is the WBA for the splus. Good luck finding one but don't spend more than 100 for setup
You will need to get a different cash can, power supply, and inner housing along with the WBA and tracker
As far as the candle you may have one from a s2000 as the plug is different than a splus
I do have a candle if you need one but do not have the bill acceptor for you.
Did you get your machine working after the battery changeover?

Thanks for the information. I will start trying to find the parts. I don't have a candle yet so would be interested in yours? Shoot me a message or email with the details. The battery is on order. I hope to get it within the next week or so.

Massey
mrodrig1074@gmail.com

Badbaud · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2016, 10:29:30 PM »

After you put the battery in and turn the machine on you will get a 61 on the display.

Press and hold the white test button until you hear a ding.

Close the door for a 61-1 and turn the jackpot reset key.

Software varies so check this site for complete instructions.

CVslots · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2016, 10:33:42 PM »

Don't get too crazy about the topper until machine is running. THEN, you can start to introduce the new stuff! )

knagl · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2016, 11:00:34 PM »

Welcome to the site, Massey.

Since you have a DBV-45 in there right now, the easiest upgrade would be to upgrade to a DBV-200. You'd need to replace the power supply and the head, but everything else would remain the same, which would be less work and require less parts.

It won't accept the newest of the new currency, but with the last update for the DBV-200 it will accept most of the "large portrait" US bills.

gwunited2 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 23, 2016, 05:34:19 AM »

Thank you all for all of the advice. So a new power supply and the head is all that's needed for a 200 upgrade. What is the software version I should look for on it?

rokgpsman · « **Reply #7 on:** February 23, 2016, 07:41:26 AM »

Changing the DBV-45 head to a DBV-200 is the lowest cost and easiest bill validator upgrade, you just have to find a good working DBV-200. They are still around but not as plentiful as before, they've not been made by JCM for many years so all you can typically find are used ones removed from a machine. The DBV-200 head will work with the rest of your bill validator parts like the transport and cash box, etc. (as knagl mentioned the external bill validator power supply will need to be replaced, more about that below). This upgrade will not allow the machine to work with all of the new bills like the WBA bill validator upgrade does, but most people find it works fine for them since it will work with the $1, $10, $20 bills, maybe more. The trick is to find a good working DBV-200 and get the latest/newest JCM software release for it that works with an IGT S+ slot machine.

To upgrade to the DBV-200 there are 2 things to look for.

First, the DBV-200 will need to have the correct software protocol (comm method) to work in an IGT machine, instead of a Bally, Williams, etc. I believe the DBV-200 head should say "ID 022/023" for use in an IGT S+ machine. There is usually a sticker somewhere on the DBV head saying what id protocol it has loaded inside. The id protocol is in the software that is loaded in the eprom or flash rom installed on the circuit board of the DBV. Luckily, this can be changed if you find a DBV-200 but it isn't for an IGT machine.

Second, the software inside the eprom/flash rom has an id version number, the later in time the version is the more likely it is to work with the newer style "large head" US bills in circulation. Often you can turn the DBV head upside down and see the eprom (or flash rom on some models). There is usually a label on the chip saying what version software is in it. It will read something similar to "v 2.30-05". There is a way to lookup this software number on the JCM website to see what US currency bills it works with. I think for the IGT S+ the last software release for the DBV-200 was somewhere around ver 2.61-04-03 which was released by JCM sometime around 2006. I think it works with many bills in circulation, except maybe the newest $5 and $100 bills. But others here can say for sure about this.

Below is a DBV-200 with id protocol of -044/045, it is for use in a Bally machine. Simply changing the eprom can convert it for use in an IGT or other machine. On DBV-200 that have a flash rom instead of an eprom it is soldered directly to the circuit board so can not be easily changed, it takes a special setup to reprogram, you usually have to send it off to someone to have it done but the cost isn't terrible. But if you find any good working DBV-200 for an acceptable price that uses the normal eprom chip then you can fairly easily remove the chip from its socket and install another one that has newer software and a different protocol. So any good working DBV-200 head can work in your machine as long as it has the IGT protocol software (ID 022/023).

Sometimes there are people or vendors here on NLG with DBV-200 heads for sale, you can read thru the Classified Ads forum area. They also show up on ebay now and then. It is great if you can find one that already has the IGT id 022/023 but if not that can be changed.

NLG Classified Ads:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=4.0

Also, knagl mentioned, you will need to get a newer power supply for the DBV-200 bill validator. These newer style power supplies are about the same size as the old ones but are capable of providing more power. They have cooling vent slots made into the housing so are easily recognized compared to the older model power supplies with the solid covers. The older models of DBV like the DBV-45 and -145 used less power than the DBV-200, that's why you need to replace the bill validator power supply. Take a look at your bill validator power supply, it is mounted inside the machine near the bill validator, if it doesn't have cooling slots then it is the old style. Here are examples of what the newer style looks like:

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3683&search=power+supply
(click on photo on their webpage for larger image)

http://www.ohiogaming.com/jcmdbvpowersupply.htm

Jim · « **Reply #8 on:** February 23, 2016, 11:01:26 AM »

get your machine up and running first, then you can proceed to up grade. most newer 200 heads have the IDO 022/023 protocol already installed as part of the software, either flashed of eprom. you select which version you need by a switch setting. most newer games and SP chips are 023. most problems with the older transports were related to dollar bill jams. the head would accept the bill, however in the process of delivering the bill to the stacker it would wad up the bill like an accordion. this was related to the worn belts in the unit. the 200 head will accept bills 4 ways. probably the easiest and most economical way to upgrade, especially is you can deal with the jams.
The other way, a WBA ,first off you have to measure the outer opening of the bezel on the front door, this will establish if you have the proper opening for a WBA bezel. if it is not the right size you would have to replace that bezel, provided the machine's metal structure will allow it, otherwise you will have to increase that opening as well. once that is established then you would have to replace the cash can, transport/head unit with the proper bezel, the transport shelf assembly with the proper harness plug, and a power supply for a WBA. as with the 200 head, the WBA has to flashed or have an eprom that would support IDO 022/023. and lastly the connector that plugs into the side of the 145 head that supplies the door bezel with a signal to turn on the lamps would have to be changed to a flat 4 pin connector (two of which are used).

The cost for the WBA upgrade is in the neighborhood of 145.00 plus the shipping, The WBA with this upgrade WILL accept the latest currency, excluding the latest 100 dollar bill, it will accept the new five dollar bill.

the connection for your candle is there, its being used for something other, probably a function of some sort of accounting system that may have been removed. its the small 4 pin connector that is plugged into a grey cable that goes in behind the reels.

I have candles if you want to add one.

Hope this helps

Jim

rokgpsman · « **Reply #9 on:** February 23, 2016, 11:12:13 AM »

I think this is the candle connector that Jim is referring to.

Jim · « **Reply #10 on:** February 23, 2016, 11:13:42 AM »

Mike, thanks for the picture, that the connector.

Jim

gwunited2 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 23, 2016, 06:00:48 PM »

Quote from: rokgpsman on February 23, 2016, 07:41:26 AM

Changing the DBV-45 head to a DBV-200 is the lowest cost and easiest bill validator upgrade, you just have to find a good working DBV-200. They are still around but not as plentiful as before, they've not been made by JCM for many years so all you can typically find are used ones removed from a machine. The DBV-200 head will work with the rest of your bill validator parts like the transport and cash box, etc. (as knagl mentioned the external bill validator power supply will need to be replaced, more about that below). This upgrade will not allow the machine to work with all of the new bills like the WBA bill validator upgrade does, but most people find it works fine for them since it will work with the $1, $10, $20 bills, maybe more. The trick is to find a good working DBV-200 and get the latest/newest JCM software release for it that works with an IGT S+ slot machine.

To upgrade to the DBV-200 there are 2 things to look for.

First, the DBV-200 will need to have the correct software protocol (comm method) to work in an IGT machine, instead of a Bally, Williams, etc. I believe the DBV-200 head should say "ID 022/023" for use in an IGT S+ machine. There is usually a sticker somewhere on the DBV head saying what id protocol it has loaded inside. The id protocol is in the software that is loaded in the eprom or flash rom installed on the circuit board of the DBV. Luckily, this can be changed if you find a DBV-200 but it isn't for an IGT machine.

Second, the software inside the eprom/flash rom has an id version number, the later in time the version is the more likely it is to work with the newer style "large head" US bills in circulation. Often you can turn the DBV head upside down and see the eprom (or flash rom on some models). There is usually a label on the chip saying what version software is in it. It will read something similar to "v 2.30-05". There is a way to lookup this software number on the JCM website to see what US currency bills it works with. I think for the IGT S+ the last software release for the DBV-200 was somewhere around ver 2.61-04-03 which was released by JCM sometime around 2006. I think it works with many bills in circulation, except maybe the newest $5 and $100 bills. But others here can say for sure about this.

Below is a DBV-200 with id protocol of -044/045, it is for use in a Bally machine. Simply changing the eprom can convert it for use in an IGT or other machine. On DBV-200 that have a flash rom instead of an eprom it is soldered directly to the circuit board so can not be easily changed, it takes a special setup to reprogram, you usually have to send it off to someone to have it done but the cost isn't terrible. But if you find any good working DBV-200 for an acceptable price that uses the normal eprom chip then you can fairly easily remove the chip from its socket and install another one that has newer software and a different protocol. So any good working DBV-200 head can work in your machine as long as it has the IGT protocol software (ID 022/023).

Sometimes there are people or vendors here on NLG with DBV-200 heads for sale, you can read thru the Classified Ads forum area. They also show up on ebay now and then. It is great if you can find one that already has the IGT id 022/023 but if not that can be changed.

NLG Classified Ads:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=4.0

Also, knagl mentioned, you will need to get a newer power supply for the DBV-200 bill validator. These newer style power supplies are about the same size as the old ones but are capable of providing more power. They have cooling vent slots made into the housing so are easily recognized compared to the older model power supplies with the solid covers. The older models of DBV like the DBV-45 and -145 used less power than the DBV-200, that's why you need to replace the bill validator power supply. Take a look at your bill validator power supply, it is mounted inside the machine near the bill validator, if it doesn't have cooling slots then it is the old style. Here are examples of what the newer style looks like:

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3683&search=power+supply
(click on photo on their webpage for larger image)

http://www.ohiogaming.com/jcmdbvpowersupply.htm

Thank you very much. I couldn't have asked for more information. I think I will get the machine up and running before I change out the validator though. First things first.

gwunited2 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 23, 2016, 06:09:49 PM »

Quote from: Jim on February 23, 2016, 11:01:26 AM

the connection for your candle is there, its being used for something other, probably a function of some sort of accounting system that may have been removed. its the small 4 pin connector that is plugged into a grey cable that goes in behind the reels.

I have candles if you want to add one.

Hope this helps

Jim

I followed the grey insulated wiring. It goes down behind the reels winds around the side and connects directly to the change button. The wiring harness that should connect to the candle (non insulated one) goes down the back of the machine and connects to a board near the mother board (if that makes any sense). Is this wired incorrectly? I am pretty sure that if i disconnect it in order to light up the candle, the candle will light up but the buttons on the front of the game will have no power.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #13 on:** February 23, 2016, 06:11:08 PM »

Quote from: gwunited2 on February 23, 2016, 06:00:48 PM

...Thank you very much. I couldn't have asked for more information. I think I will get the machine up and running before I change out the validator though. First things first.

I agree, and if your old DBV-45 is working ok it will work with the US $1 bill for testing and playing purposes as you get the other things sorted out. Even the oldest bill validators (within reason) work with the $1 bill since it has not been redesigned for many years like the other bill denominations have.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #14 on:** February 23, 2016, 06:14:16 PM »

Quote from: gwunited2 on February 23, 2016, 06:09:49 PM

I followed the grey insulated wiring. It goes down behind the reels winds around the side and connects directly to the change button. The wiring harness that should connect to the candle (non insulated one) goes down the back of the machine and connects to a board near the mother board (if that makes any sense). Is this wired incorrectly? I am pretty sure that if i disconnect it in order to light up the candle, the candle will light up but the buttons on the front of the game will have no power.

Can you post a photo of this board near the mother board that the cable connects to? I'm thinking that the clear/whitish candle connector with just a few wires (the one pointed out in the earlier photo) should be disconnected from the gray cable, and that candle connector gets connected to a cable coming down from a candle on top of the machine. But I'm not sure about what the gray cable is for. Maybe let's wait to hear from others.

That connection to the Change button may be right, as pressing it should light one of the candle lights, signalling that the player wants a slot person to come over.

Also, it is likely that some of those cables in the top box that are not connected to anything are not important. They probably went to optional equipment that the casino removed when they got rid of the machine. The removed equipment could have been for player slot club tracking, progressive jackpot connections, security, etc. Casinos often remove such equipment so they can reuse them on other machines.

gwunited2 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 23, 2016, 07:05:59 PM »

I guess it isn't a board, more of a connection point on the back wall. The wires(red, blue, yellow) that I think are supposed to connect to the candle, go down the back wall and are in the large uncovered wire loom that plugs in and is labeled SK. Pictures 1-3

Picture 4 is of where the grey insulated wires (green, red, white, black) connect to the door. They go directly to the change button. The other end (green, red, white, black wires) connects to what I think the candle is supposed to hook up to.

gwunited2 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2016, 07:07:26 PM »

The other cut wires are labeled card reader, etc and are cut on both ends.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #17 on:** February 23, 2016, 07:38:56 PM »

Quote from: gwunited2 on February 23, 2016, 07:07:26 PM

The other cut wires are labeled card reader, etc and are cut on both ends.

Yes, that card reader stuff would be for the player's slot card equipment, the player slides their card in and it is read, then the info is sent over the cable to the casino central computer.

I brightened your photos so I could see details better, maybe they will let others here give advice about your connecting a candle and how the Change button figures into it.

Just to double-check, I'm not seeing your mpu board in these photos, did you remove it while tracing out the wiring? I think it should be down near the hopper, either behind it on the rear wall or on the sidewall down there.

knagl · « **Reply #18 on:** February 24, 2016, 12:25:26 AM »

Just a guess, but it looks like someone hacked together the wires to make it so that the change/service light on the button deck would light up when pressed. On a typical S+ upright machine, IGT for whatever reason never ran wires to the light bulb in that button, so if you press the change/service button on the button deck, the top light in the candle should light up, but the physical button would not.

Regardless, you do not need a working candle to get your machine up and running. You can always add a candle in later, and more than likely you'll be fine unhooking the jury-rigged button light wiring and plugging in the candle into the top box connector as it was designed.

Badbaud · « **Reply #19 on:** February 24, 2016, 12:37:19 AM »

Wonder it someone did it because the triac on the main board that drives that light was defective?

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Author Topic: First Slot - Newbie here (Read 11282 times)