IGT S+ Stuck at 61-1 error

[MNHazmat]

Hi all -

I recently picked up my first machine and have been working through various issues. Right now I am stuck at the 61-1 error and can't clear it.

Here's the history:

Apparently the machine has sat for quite awhile. I'm told it's an early model S+. Started out with the dead battery code. Replaced the battery and cleared the unit successfully. Booted up and worked fine.

Hit my first pay and found that the coins would not dispense resulting in a 3300 code. Traced the problem to a bad knife as the coins were slipping under it. Ordered a replacement and installed it with no issue. Rotating the disc by hand the coins now ride and eject properly.

Reinstalled the hopper, code 3300 wouldn't resolve. Decided to clear the machine again and start fresh. Completed the procedure, started the machine back up, got the code 61, held the test button down, get the "boing" and code changes to 61-1. Close the door, turn the key and nothing....

Based on what I've read here I suspected the door optics. Found that the glass covering the emitter was broken, so replaced that - still no change.

Started looking for any obvious disconnected wires, etc and found a bent pin on the main board connector. I was able to get it straightened out and reseated the board. No change.

I've got so far as to bypass the door optics (jumper wire between red wire and black/purple - still no change.

What else can  I check? Have I missed something or am I looking at a board replacement?


Thanks in advance for your help!

[slots4home]

If you cleared it the first time and it worked
I would do a clear ( their is a lot of people on this site that would disagree with me ) but that is what cleared mine

[Shaggy]

Make sure the reset key switch is hooked up. Sometime they are unhooked. If it worked before the optics aren't likely to blame. When you turn the key does it go blank for a few seconds? If not it could be the optics. Make sure the door latch is all the way down.

Dave

[knagl]

Another clear won't hurt. Do not bypass the optics. Certain SP chips will not get past a 61 error with bypassed optics.

Also ensure that your bill validator stacker ("cash can") door is completely closed and latched (if equipped).

[MNHazmat]

Thanks for the responses. I've performed the clear step a few times now and it makes nondifference, I just end up back at 61-1.  The connections on the attendant key appear solid, as do the connections for the optics. As best as I can tell they should be aligning ok as well. The 61-1 is displayed constantly, it doesn't blank out when I switch the attendant key.

Anything else I should check?

[Sunrise Side]

When you open the cash can door is there a micro switch mounted on the inside of the door? If so disconnect the wires to that switch and wire nut the wires together. It is only for casino security purposes. Then try your reset key switch to clear the 61-1.

[knagl]

Are you getting 61 first, and then that changes to 61_1 after you press the self-test button near the power switch, or does it just boot up to 61_1?

Can you post a picture of both sides of your door optics?  Stupidly IGT used the same harness on both sides, and it's possible to attach them incorrectly, or attach two emitters or two receivers by mistake.

[MNHazmat]

When you open the cash can door is there a micro switch mounted on the inside of the door? If so disconnect the wires to that switch and wire nut the wires together. It is only for casino security purposes. Then try your reset key switch to clear the 61-1.

No switch that I can see.

Are you getting 61 first, and then that changes to 61_1 after you press the self-test button near the power switch, or does it just boot up to 61_1?

Can you post a picture of both sides of your door optics?  Stupidly IGT used the same harness on both sides, and it's possible to attach them incorrectly, or attach two emitters or two receivers by mistake.

Yes, 61 first, push the button and it changes to 61-1. That's where it gets stuck. Pics of the optics are attached.

Make sure the reset key switch is hooked up. Sometime they are unhooked. If it worked before the optics aren't likely to blame. When you turn the key does it go blank for a few seconds? If not it could be the optics. Make sure the door latch is all the way down.

Dave

I've disconnected , cleaned the terminals and reconnected the switch - no change. The 61-1 display is constant, not even a flicker when I turn the key. I could always pull the switch and test it - is it a normally closed or normally open switch?

Another clear won't hurt. Do not bypass the optics. Certain SP chips will not get past a 61 error with bypassed optics.

Also ensure that your bill validator stacker ("cash can") door is completely closed and latched (if equipped).

Performed another clear - no change. Cash can appears secure.


I have another set of optics (both send and receive) on the way. Is there anything else I should be checking? Was purple to red the proper connection to try and bypass the optics?


Thanks!

[slots4home]

Was that board working before or is it a new one?
The reason that I ask is that their are 3 jumpers on that board and they might not be in the right place

[MNHazmat]

Was that board working before or is it a new one?
The reason that I ask is that their are 3 jumpers on that board and they might not be in the right place

It is the original board and it was working fine after I initially replaced the battery. The issue started after a 3300 error that was followed by a clear. See my first post for the whole history.

[Shaggy]

I know this sounds like old hat, but have you checked the alignment on the optics? I know it worked at first but if they're a little off, it could be just enough to make them not work. Put a piece of masking tape on the door and with the latch all the way down, mark the center of the optic with a sharpie, pencil what ever. Do the same for the cabinet. Close the door, do the marks line up? If not adjust the optics to match and then try it. Also if there is doubt about the reset switch, remove the wires, remove the switch and poke the wires out the switch hole. If the optics are OK, close and latch the door and touch the 2 wires together and see if it activates the reset. You're a trooper man. Stick with it.

Dave

[MNHazmat]

I know this sounds like old hat, but have you checked the alignment on the optics? I know it worked at first but if they're a little off, it could be just enough to make them not work. Put a piece of masking tape on the door and with the latch all the way down, mark the center of the optic with a sharpie, pencil what ever. Do the same for the cabinet. Close the door, do the marks line up? If not adjust the optics to match and then try it. Also if there is doubt about the reset switch, remove the wires, remove the switch and poke the wires out the switch hole. If the optics are OK, close and latch the door and touch the 2 wires together and see if it activates the reset. You're a trooper man. Stick with it.

Dave

The optics appear aligned vertically, not sure how you'd be able to check the horizontal axis. The top line of the blue tape in the attached pic lines up with the optics.

I pulled the switch and shorted the ends as you mentioned. No dice.

[Shaggy]

Well thanks for trying. We're working through all this to get you going. Those eliminate a couple of things. Gotta think some more.

Dave

[knagl]

I have another set of optics (both send and receive) on the way. Is there anything else I should be checking? Was purple to red the proper connection to try and bypass the optics?

I'd try the new, hopefully known-good optics and see where you are at that point.  Do not try to bypass them.  As I said before, there are some SP chips that will not get past a 61-1 with bypassed optics.

The mounting location of your optics seems a little odd to me.  On both of the S+ machines I have in the basement right now, and the one I have in storage, the optics are mounted above the reel shelf, a little above the bill validator head.  On your machine, it looks like the optics are mounted below the door latch.  It shouldn't make a difference, so long as they match up when the door is closed, but it seems a little strange to me.

[ALIDMAN]

try to remove the bios chip from the MPU board ( it says bios next to the chip )and let it sit for 5 minutes then plug it back in and see what happen , if that does not work then try to change the mother board 

[Jim]

why don't you find out for sure if your optics are even working???  use the test that was intended for this purpose, get into the machine diagnostics, go to the input test (13_1)   when the optics are away from each other, the 1 will be constant,  when you slide the door latch towards the bottom as soon as the optics align, the 1 will begin to toggle back and forth to a 0,1,0,1 etc.  this will tell you the optics are working and how they are aligned. Takes the guess work out of the equation.

open door- press white test button until you see a 10_1 (Winner paid )  now advance using the jackpot key switch until you see a 13_1,  now do your testing and see what is going on.( you can close door and secure latch to observe, reopen door  and do this until the cows come home as long as you don't hit any buttons or turn any keys)  now after you are satisfied with the results you can   close the door, hit the bet max button and the machine will return to the game play mode.

Hope this helps

Jim

[knagl]

I don't think you can get into the self-test input tests when the machine is sitting at a 61 error, unless you know of a way that I don't.

[Jim]

Its been a while, but I think you can get in, the only time I could get in was during a hopper payout error, like a 3100 or a 3300.


Jim

[Stayouttadabunker]

I have another set of optics (both send and receive) on the way. Is there anything else I should be checking? Was purple to red the proper connection to try and bypass the optics?

I'd try the new, hopefully known-good optics and see where you are at that point.  Do not try to bypass them.  As I said before, there are some SP chips that will not get past a 61-1 with bypassed optics.

The mounting location of your optics seems a little odd to me.  On both of the S+ machines I have in the basement right now, and the one I have in storage, the optics are mounted above the reel shelf, a little above the bill validator head.  On your machine, it looks like the optics are mounted below the door latch.  It shouldn't make a difference, so long as they match up when the door is closed, but it seems a little strange to me.

I have a few S+'s that have the other door optic mounting locations.
As far as I know, there were two different locations.
The reason for the other door optic mounting locations are unknown but exist on the older S+'s that used the left-wall MPU location before interior DBV's existed on these models.
When the DBV's came in, IGT moved the door optics to a higher location...this is my theory and I'm sticking with it! LOL
but yeah, you're dead on knagl - it's doesn't really matter where they are as long as they're aligned to face each other when the cabinet door is closed.

Sometimes using the Clear chip will erased the "stuck" logic data signals, other times it will not.
Why?
I found out why because I had this VERY problem once.
This is how I fixed it...>>>

There is a small chip located on the left-hand side of the floor-located motherboard.
Offhand, I don't remember the name of the chip or whether or not it has 6 or 8 legs on it.
The problem is that one of the logic gates inside that particular chip I'm talking about about has a burned out gate.
It is permanently "stuck" in either the "1" or "zero" setting and
the Clear chip will not change it no matter how many times I tried to clear that chip.
This machine was forever "stuck" in the dreaded "61-1 Loop"


soooo, long story short, you need either a new/used working motherboard or
you need to replace this chip with a new one.
A long time I bought a few dozen of these chips from Mouser
and still have quite a few of them in a bag at work.
If you think you're good enough at cutting off the legs of the burned chip, DE-soldering the cut legs out of the motherboard circuit pin holes, and re-soldering the new chip into the pinholes without burning up the guts of the insides of a new chip...
then PM me your address and I'll be glad to send you one for free.

If not, I'm sure one of our sponsored vendors on the homepage of NLG will be glad to sell you a new motherboard!

[MNHazmat]

Its been a while, but I think you can get in, the only time I could get in was during a hopper payout error, like a 3100 or a 3300.

Test button does nothing, other than change the 61 to 61-1 if I press and hold. If you know of another method I'll certainly give it a shot.

I have a few S+'s that have the other door optic mounting locations.
As far as I know, there were two different locations.
The reason for the other door optic mounting locations are unknown but exist on the older S+'s that used the left-wall MPU location before interior DBV's existed on these models.
When the DBV's came in, IGT moved the door optics to a higher location...this is my theory and I'm sticking with it! LOL
but yeah, you're dead on knagl - it's doesn't really matter where they are as long as they're aligned to face each other when the cabinet door is closed.

That looks to be the case here. I was told this was an early S+ unit - the DBV is high up next to the reels as shown in the attached pics. Getting that working will be a fight for another time.

There is a small chip located on the left-hand side of the floor-located motherboard.
Offhand, I don't remember the name of the chip or whether or not it has 6 or 8 legs on it.
The problem is that one of the logic gates inside that particular chip I'm talking about about has a burned out gate.
It is permanently "stuck" in either the "1" or "zero" setting and
the Clear chip will not change it no matter how many times I tried to clear that chip.
This machine was forever "stuck" in the dreaded "61-1 Loop"


soooo, long story short, you need either a new/used working motherboard or
you need to replace this chip with a new one.
A long time I bought a few dozen of these chips from Mouser
and still have quite a few of them in a bag at work.
If you think you're good enough at cutting off the legs of the burned chip, DE-soldering the cut legs out of the motherboard circuit pin holes, and re-soldering the new chip into the pinholes without burning up the guts of the insides of a new chip...
then PM me your address and I'll be glad to send you one for free.

If not, I'm sure one of our sponsored vendors on the homepage of NLG will be glad to sell you a new motherboard!

PM sent and thank you! My soldering skills are serviceable and it doesn't look like a difficult job. Worst case I have to buy a new board, which I'd have to do anyway. To be clear, we're talking about the 6 legged chip I'm pointing at in the attached photo?


Edited to add clarification with quote boxes.  -knagl