IGT S+ Stuck at 61-1 error

[Shaggy]

Thank you for the great picture of the front. That's the first clear picture I've seen of the early model S+ with the bill validator mounted in the machine. I have an early model without the b/v. I wondered how those mounted with the reel glass. It's a great looking machine and you'll get it going.   

Dave

[knagl]

PM sent and thank you! My soldering skills are serviceable and it doesn't look like a difficult job. Worst case I have to buy a new board, which I'd have to do anyway. To be clear, we're talking about the 6 legged chip I'm pointing at in the attached photo?

I'm guessing that photo didn't get attached.  The chip is the EEPROM on the fixed motherboard in the bottom of the machine (which the removable MPU board plugs into), which looks similar to this picture:



Let's start with the easier solution of new door optics, though.  Make sure to install the new set as a pair to eliminate any confusion, and do them one at a time to make sure you put the emitter and receiver in the proper places.  It may be helpful for you to put a mark on the connectors of the new optics prior to installing them so you know which ones are your originals, and which are the replacements.

Thank you for the great picture of the front. That's the first clear picture I've seen of the early model S+ with the bill validator mounted in the machine.

Aah, the Western Money Systems bill validators.  I've always heard that they were garbage -- very unreliable.

[Shaggy]

Thank you for the great picture of the front. That's the first clear picture I've seen of the early model S+ with the bill validator mounted in the machine.

Aah, the Western Money Systems bill validators.  I've always heard that they were garbage -- very unreliable.

They may have been terrible bill validators, but they make seeing the winner paid display easy when pushing the test button.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Are you getting 61 first, and then that changes to 61_1 after you press the self-test button near the power switch, or does it just boot up to 61_1?

Can you post a picture of both sides of your door optics?  Stupidly IGT used the same harness on both sides, and it's possible to attach them incorrectly, or attach two emitters or two receivers by mistake.

Very important point knagl made on the door optics.
Let me elaborate on this a bit...>>>

Both the optics have two wires and both the door emitter & cabinet reciever optics have wire that is red.
HOWEVER, the door emitter optic has one wire that is black,
and the cabinet reciever optic has one wire that is white.

Hope this helps ya!

BTW I'm mailing out to you the small 8-pin motherboard ( 24C04 ) chip in the morning...thanks for the addy info 

[MNHazmat]

Update!

So prior to my first post here, I had ordered the parts to build the optics bypass set with the resistor, IC chip and toggle switch. Those materials showed up today and I figured I'd give it a shot on the off chance it worked - and it did. Sort of...

Hooking up the bypass got me past the 61-1 and allowed the machine to boot up. Following that however it would not accept any coins. I stepped through a few things I had read and ended up cycling back to the door optics. Now that the machine is working I was able to get into the door test and saw a constant 13-1 when connected vs the toggling 1's and 0's I expected to see. I hooked the new set of optics up and got a steady 13-0.

I had read that a camera phone should be able to pick up the light from the emitter - it did not. I tried all 3 emitters that I have with the same result.

On a whim, I built a straight through bypass cable to connect the door side red wire to the frame side red wire and lo and behold, alternating 1's and 0's appeared! The machine now accepts coin and plays!

Is it possible that I bought 2 bad sets of replacement optics? My next test to to build extension wires for the optic leads, screw the eyes down onto a piece of wood so I can verify alignment and test these damn things once and for all.

One problem remains and I'm hoping it's just a setting. When I hit cash out - nothing happens. No coins, no codes, no noise, no nothing. Thoughts?

Oh, and where is the volume control on this thing? It's loud as hell!

Thanks again to everyone for helping this newbie out!

[Shaggy]

Update!

So prior to my first post here, I had ordered the parts to build the optics bypass set with the resistor, IC chip and toggle switch. Those materials showed up today and I figured I'd give it a shot on the off chance it worked - and it did. Sort of...

Hooking up the bypass got me past the 61-1 and allowed the machine to boot up. Following that however it would not accept any coins. I stepped through a few things I had read and ended up cycling back to the door optics. Now that the machine is working I was able to get into the door test and saw a constant 13-1 when connected vs the toggling 1's and 0's I expected to see. I hooked the new set of optics up and got a steady 13-0.

I had read that a camera phone should be able to pick up the light from the emitter - it did not. I tried all 3 emitters that I have with the same result.

On a whim, I built a straight through bypass cable to connect the door side red wire to the frame side red wire and lo and behold, alternating 1's and 0's appeared! The machine now accepts coin and plays!

Is it possible that I bought 2 bad sets of replacement optics? My next test to to build extension wires for the optic leads, screw the eyes down onto a piece of wood so I can verify alignment and test these damn things once and for all.

One problem remains and I'm hoping it's just a setting. When I hit cash out - nothing happens. No coins, no codes, no noise, no nothing. Thoughts?

Oh, and where is the volume control on this thing? It's loud as hell!

Thanks again to everyone for helping this newbie out!

We had a guy on here a while back with an S+ with bad optics, we thought. And was actually the case. He had techs at his place of employment who told him S+ and S2000 optics were different. The members told him they were the same but his guys told him different. Long story short, he bought 2 bad sets of optics before getting a set of S2000 optics that fixed his problem. So yes it's possible to get bad optics. Some of these may be 30+ years old. You just never know.
It is possible with a setting on the cash out. Check for disconnected wires or even a broken switch. These again are old and the slightest bump could crack and break a button housing.
If it's a 10mhz board, there will be a blue wheel on top of the MPU. That is the volume control. If it's a 16mhz it's in the setup menu. Most are 10mhz. Look for the wheel.

Dave

[MNHazmat]

Thank you for the great picture of the front. That's the first clear picture I've seen of the early model S+ with the bill validator mounted in the machine.

Aah, the Western Money Systems bill validators.  I've always heard that they were garbage -- very unreliable.


Any tips on how to get that validator working? I have it enabled - but no go. More hassle than it's worth or no?

[slots4home]

I would contact  slotwholesalers
They have some WBAs that you can change yours over to.
They are a lot more reliable.

[knagl]

Any tips on how to get that validator working? I have it enabled - but no go. More hassle than it's worth or no?

That's what I've always heard about them, and beyond that I unfortunately know nothing to even begin to point you in the right direction with the Western Money Systems validators.  Best of luck to you.

[Jim]

 I don't know if Western Money Systems  is still in business. But here is what you have!  you have to keep that unit in place because the display is an integral part of the bill unit, you could remove the unit, but then you would have to replace the glass and find a stand alone display, probably not worth the trouble.

the sad part is that your board is mounted to the left of the hopper, hopper can't be moved over to make room for a bill unit.  so you wouldn't be able to add an internal bill unit.


Jim

[ianmcneil68]

Thank you for the great picture of the front. That's the first clear picture I've seen of the early model S+ with the bill validator mounted in the machine.

Aah, the Western Money Systems bill validators.  I've always heard that they were garbage -- very unreliable.


Any tips on how to get that validator working? I have it enabled - but no go. More hassle than it's worth or no?

I'm looking for the transport/can for a Western BV. Did you ever get yours going? If not I could use the can. Thanks.

[rockymountainslots]

Get a ivc006 clear chip and a set chip your eesquare is corrupted clear it twice it will clear all your problems them put your program back in then you will get a 61 hold test button in then it will go to a 61-1 then close door turn reset switch should clear

[knagl]

This is a post from 2016.  I'm locking it.  The OP can request that it be unlocked if need be by sending me a PM.