IGT S+ RED,WHITE,& BLUE lost LED,s and tilt

[jim k-falls]

Ok, that makes sense..i did take the pins out of the molex holder and clean, and cleaned the post(male pins)..I will check all the trace and see if I can spot the problem..my 6 wire cord doesn't look like the one in the pic buzz has, in fact none of the wires go to that 12 pin molex..ill take a pic of these when I get all the zip ties off

[jim k-falls]

my wiring on the 6 pin goes like this..gr #1 towards the back -middle rear trans..gr #2 -8amp fuse  blu#3 -middle fr.trans  Brn/blu#4- bttm fr trans  or/gr#5 - 24 amp fuse  or #6 - bttm rear trans.

[Badbaud]

Here is a manual you may not have.

[jim k-falls]

Thank you, I checked continuity between the 6 pins and #1 and 2 good and all the others checked out fine acroos the board..so im gong to solder now and get rid of this plug for good..i will post the results in a while..Jim

[jim k-falls]

Soldering went well, but no change on the game..do I need to buy a set chip? I don't want to clear it if its not necessary, but im a rookie on these and will do whatever it takes..im keeping this machine so my dad can play it..hes having a hard time with my old e/m handles, .thanks guys

[Badbaud]

Does it have a bill validator?

[jim k-falls]

No, just coin

[Jim]

Listen! just to put your mind at ease here are the wire colors and their functions.the transformer has a primary winding and a secondary winding,the input goes to the primary, pin1-2-3, 1=common/white/red,2=115vac/black/red, 3=220vac/black/violet. the secondary winding drop's down the voltages, pins 4-5-6,  4=12vac/orange/black,5=0vac/green,6= 12vac/orange.  pins 7-8-9, 7=0vac, 8=,7vac/blue, 9=8vac/brown/blue.


these wires go to J8 on the motherboard,they are marked on the board 1 is on the right and 6 is on the left. 1=7/8vac common/green, 2=7/8vaccommon/green, 3=7vac hot/blue, 4= 8vac hot brown/blue, 5= 24vac hot/orange/green, 6= 24vac common/ orange.


the reason I asked you to check three things; 1, if the reels are stiff, the 24vac is getting to the cpu board, it provides voltages that hold the reels in place. 2,  the denom lamp is on all the time, as soon as power is applied, that will test the 7vac which powers this lamp. 3, the voltage across the cap C-4 on the LED board, it is +VB which is made from the 8vac.


so now you can see if all three of those tests are good ,your power is probably is good.




hope this helps


Jim

[jim k-falls]

Thanks Jim, this helps and im learning by asking sort of dumb questions at times..lol and here goes another one..what does +VB mean, and on the low volt (secondary side) of transformer when you say 0 vac on pins 5 and 7, to me this means neutral..or common..or can I use the white/red for all my output tests?..
 
                                                  the other Jim

[Jim]

+Vb  is just a term the manuf. gives to a certain voltage in their schematics.


0vac is neutral, return, common, etc.  but common only to that  voltage that is developed by that set of windings.


you cannot mix the primary common with the secondary commons.  in this case, there are two separate secondary  output windings, each with their own common or return.




Jim

[jim k-falls]

That's what I thought, and now that were on the same page , and I have power and no longer have that 6 pin molex to worry about, what do you suggest I try next? when this all started I had the insert coin light come on briefly and the 25 cent light is always on as is the flourescents..never have seen the cc light come on..and the dip switches are the same way as when the machine came to me..1,2,3,4 on and 5,6,7,8 off..ive read not to clear the machine unless no other options are there..and just so everyone reading this knows, the self test, J.P. reset and LED,s worked briefly also..

[Badbaud]

The CC light doesn't come on with the door open, sorta reverse of a refrigerator light.

Try reseating all socketed chips on the MPU board.

Run a clear chip.

Check for bent pins on the MPU board connector.

[Buzz]

Jim  Just saying, there are two molex plugs on the mother board that will fit in the wrong sockets. If they are switched you will not get a LED display.  ( The other Jim in this thread is the one that taught me that )

[Badbaud]

Here is a backplane layout attached.

[jim k-falls]

Buzz, I know which one your talking about..it will reach a third place on mine if you stretch it..thank you for that..ive been putting it in the j13 socket..know ill check and see if that's right.

[jim k-falls]

Oops, I meant J14 it wont go in the 13..

[Badbaud]

J14 is for back lit reels. do your reels light up?

If not it should be empty.

[Buzz]

J14 is for back lit reels. do your reels light up?

If not it should be empty.

WHAT !!!!!!!!!!  When is the last time you saw backlit reels on a S+  ?

[Badbaud]

According to the back plane schematic it was a option.

[jim k-falls]

Mine sure don't, and it was in the wrong socket..i followed the wires up to the meters and put it in J5..it was in J14 and it didn't seem to change anything, but ill bet my meters will work now..lol