Author Topic: DREAM ALMOST SHATTERED....PLEASE HELP (Read 3435 times)

Tokoloshe · « **on:** August 12, 2018, 07:07:17 AM »

So I typed a long messages but it all disappeared. long story short my SM is as dead as a doornail.
1 light comes on .. nothing else.

Tests that I can do ?

Please help.

Shaggy · « **Reply #1 on:** August 12, 2018, 07:39:11 AM »

Welcome to NLG!

You posted in the S+ forum, is that what you have? Some pictures of your machine front and inside would be helpful. There is a connection on an S+ going to the mother board that could cause a power loss but there are a number of others too. Let's figure out your machine and we'll see what may be causing your problem.

Dave

Tokoloshe · « **Reply #2 on:** August 12, 2018, 09:26:47 AM »

2 nd time round my LOOONG response bombs out...

herewith Pictures..
please let me know where i can start testing .
apologies for the abruptness of my response but i type with 1 finger and it takes me ages to respond .

Again thank you for any and all help.
I will type my next response in word and copy paste rather.

Regards

J-P

PS the SM is for home use.

cowboygames · « **Reply #3 on:** August 12, 2018, 10:54:19 AM »

Dave, I see on his pictures that the MPU says P.E. on it. Does this make it an S slot or maybe a M slot? Does it maybe not mean anything? The glass is reminiscent of an M slot

markb7605 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 12, 2018, 11:27:56 AM »

its an early s+ narrow

markb7605 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 12, 2018, 11:30:34 AM »

first thing slide board out and check battery it should read close to 3.6v

Shaggy · « **Reply #6 on:** August 12, 2018, 01:21:53 PM »

Quote from: markb7605 on August 12, 2018, 11:27:56 AM

its an early s+ narrow

Yep.

Has this machine ever worked for you or did you get it in this condition? Also there are fuses in the bottom, never hurts to check them. Even if the battery is dead it should light up. I've had batteries rotted clear off the board and the machine lit up. The displays were flashing like crazy but it did light up.

Shaggy · « **Reply #7 on:** August 12, 2018, 01:24:55 PM »

Quote from: cowboygames on August 12, 2018, 10:54:19 AM

Dave, I see on his pictures that the MPU says P.E. on it. Does this make it an S slot or maybe a M slot? Does it maybe not mean anything? The glass is reminiscent of an M slot

Yeah that glass does look like an M slot. Maybe they changed that belly glass out sometime. The top glass is for a Super Bar, T Bar/Cherry.

Dave

Tokoloshe · « **Reply #8 on:** August 13, 2018, 04:14:23 AM »

Firstly

Really appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions.

Ill try and type again my answers as fast as possible.

So my family had been in the hospitality industries for a few decades and one of the most memorable pieces of kit that we ever owned was replica slot machine.

On my 40th and then again on my 45th birthday, My wish list included to own a replica SM ...
At he beginning of this year I started negotiating with a friend of a friend of a friend who told me his friend can organize a decommissioned SM. <Slot Machine>

Not expecting anything to come from it 3 weeks ago, yep almost a year later , I got the all clear and thumbs up

. that i can come and collect one.

I drove over 2500 miles to collect the SM. so I was warned they might have been gutted . as t he SM was locked and I had no idea what was in side .. I though that even if i can push a few button and make the wheels spin with some PLC's etc.... but then i got he SM open and I saw all part inside.... i maybe could get the unit running.....
So i trolled the net and came upon this fantastic forum.

Machine was received as is.

Schismatics? So what its the correct model no of my SM?

1. Check fuses... ( essential) This is the 3 fuses behind the coin hopper thing... ( checked them all good)
2. Check Battery( Non essential ) Cant get the big silver box ( mother board housing) off or out....
3. Is there not a quick thing that they might have done to decommission the SM....

any schismatics?

So what its the correct model no of my SM?

Thanks again

J-P

(edit to remove incompatible font commands)

markb7605 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 13, 2018, 06:29:59 AM »

remove the hopper then grab the black knob and lift up the tray will slide up the pull out

Toyguy · « **Reply #10 on:** August 15, 2018, 06:42:58 PM »

As noted, grab the front and side handles of the hopper and pull it straight out of the machine. It rides in two brackets on the floor. You should then be able to get sufficient access to pop the MPU cage out. As previously noted, grab the black knob and lift straight up. Wiggling a bit front-to-back helps. It will be tight but should pop free. Once it's loose, tilt the top out a little from the side wall and continue to lift up and out.

You'll want to check the battery for voltage and also for any signs of leakage and corrosion. Not to rain on your parade, but the exterior condition of the machine says to me that it's been sitting a long while. I would not be surprised to find that battery leakage has eaten away at the MPU. No big deal - they are readily available.

Behind the hopper you should fine the power supply. Check and reseat all the connectors you can. If the machine's been sitting you will probably have some oxidation going on so reseating will help with that.

You also have a cable off on the door. Just above the ballast/starter for the light there's a 2-pin connector. I think I see the cable hanging in your photo. Get that plugged back in. That may get some lighting working.

First key thing though - let's see what the MPU looks like...

Tokoloshe · « **Reply #11 on:** August 16, 2018, 02:07:23 AM »

Ok so I managed to wiggle the MPU Box loose.. and all looks ok.. the battery is DEAD!! no V, not even a twinge.

It looks like the board has been "removed" or "replaced" before as some of the screws holding it fast to the metal casing are gone.

I cannot see any "damage" on the surface or the face of the board.. Nor do I smell anything burnt.

Yep, this SM has been standing for probably more than 5 years I suspect, so anything could be possible.

No water or "exterior factors" damage can be seen anywhere, to be the cause of death to this SM.

I have "reseated" all connectors on the Power supply and everywhere that I can lay my hands on...

herewith pic of board

rokgpsman · « **Reply #12 on:** August 16, 2018, 03:38:35 AM »

You can replace that dead battery, get the type that has solder tabs or pigtail leads, either can be soldered to the board. The battery is a 3.6 volt lithium style. If you don't want to solder it yourself and don't have a friend to do it many cities have places that can do this for you. Places that sell batteries, like a Batteries Plus kind of store, often have a person working there that can solder batteries to circuit boards. If you are outside the USA (S. Africa?) perhaps there will be a similar place if you need it.

Those 2 socketed chips on the mpu board that have the bright pink or red labels are the main chips that control operation of your game. Read the labels and tell us what they say, look for something like SSxxxx on one chip and SPxxxx on the other.

The screws that attach the mpu board to the metal plate (the "tray") are not critical. You can space the screws that you have around the 4 corners of the board and then elsewhere depending on how many you have. You can take one screw to a hardware store or home improvement store to get more, just show it to the person working there.

It is ok to post more photos of the inside of the machine so that we know exactly what you have and are dealing with. Particularly photos showing more detail of the inside of the lower cabinet area, and of the inside of the main door.

The mpu plugs into another circuit board (called the motherboard). The motherboard has a power supply wiring harness attached to it. That connector often gets loose electrical contacts, can even get darkened places on it from the bad contacts overheating (see photo below). Inspect this connector on your motherboard to see if it is ok. Be sure to check the backside also. This is the potential problem Shaggy referred to earlier. This connector is how the power supply voltages get to the mpu board and other places, so it is important.

To avoid problems when entering a long post you can enter part of it and click on the "Post" button below the message box and get that part posted. Then you can click on the "Modify" button that is in the upper right area of the message you posted and the system will let you add more text to that post. When done click on the blue "Save" button below the message box. That process will also let you edit your post and make any needed changes.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #13 on:** August 16, 2018, 04:30:23 AM »

Below are a couple of your photos, I've made a note where the white TEST button is located. When the machine is working well-enough you can press this white TEST button and access the builtin Test and Setup menus. The red digital readout displays on the front of the machine are used to show you the Test & Setup menu information.

The photo also shows the round blue wheel that is the sound volume adjustment. The coin comparitor is the part that decides if the inserted coin is accepted or rejected. Just below the coin comparitor are a pair of small circuit boards called the "coin optics" boards. One is mounted behind the other, the accepted coin passes between them and then goes into the hopper.

The door and the cabinet have a pair of small round brass-colored parts called the "door optics". These are the sensors that tell the machine when the door is open and when it is closed. One sensor is mounted to the edge of the door, the other sensor is mounted on the cabinet. They are mounted so that they will align next to each other when the door is closed and the locking latch bar is in the locked position.

The machine has a few fluorescent lamps, they have lamp ballasts and starters. Sometimes a bad ballast or starter can cause problems with the slot machine power supply. The starters are easily removed by twisting them and pulling outward.

Tokoloshe · « **Reply #14 on:** August 16, 2018, 08:48:17 AM »

herewith the two pink EPROMS.

I Have no problem soldering
Yip Based in South Africa so part not here readily available.
I have a good batery supplier here in my City buy will only check tomo if he can help with this battery, else i will have to ask for assistance.
Ok I will go tonight and check everything out on the SM

On closer inspection. work has been done on some of the chips on the board.. i will send pics tomo

thanks again for all assistance

rokgpsman · « **Reply #15 on:** August 16, 2018, 09:08:34 AM »

The pink eprom with the SS1177 label crosses to this game on the NLG website S+ game page. But your glass is somewhat different than what is shown here. However I think it is the same game.

http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%205%20Line/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20T%20Bar-Cherry%20(5%20Line).htm

As you can see in the chart, the SS1177 chip on your mpu board gives the machine a 90% player win percentage.

The SP chip label looks like it says "SP142", I didn't find any info on that. This could be because your machine was built as an overseas/export model and our information on them is sometimes limited. The SP chip is what controls the overall operation of the machine and it has certain features & setting options, including builtin tests. The Setup/Options/Test menu is accessed by pressing the white SELF TEST button inside the machine. For each SP chip there is a document that gives the details of its features, without that document we will have to best-guess things. All SP chips have certain menu similarities so hopefully someone familiar with S+ SP chips can give guidance on that if needed.

rickhunter · « **Reply #16 on:** August 16, 2018, 10:02:53 AM »

You are missing an IC at U18. It's an DUART com chip.

Toyguy · « **Reply #17 on:** August 16, 2018, 02:04:22 PM »

Mine is also missing the U18 IC - doesn't affect anything since most home users aren't running communications anyway.

Tokoloshe · « **Reply #18 on:** August 17, 2018, 04:18:30 AM »

Allrighty then.. so I have unplugged check tested everything I can that i know wont muck things up...
Still all the same.

Any specific test(s) i can start doing to point me in a direction into finding the root cause of my dead SM.

Any one know of someone in SA that has parts to part with ... ( maybe someone on this forum)

Thanks Again...

Not going to give up... but my first prize is to get SM working on original format... if this does not work... is there other options?

rokgpsman · « **Reply #19 on:** August 17, 2018, 06:23:00 AM »

We need to know all the symptoms or clues that you can provide about the machine, otherwise it is difficult to offer advice or suggestions. Naturally we aren't there to see what you see, so our only info is what you tell us and your photos.

What happens when the power switch is turned on? Anything light up on front of machine, like pushbutton lights or the red digital display above the coin slot? Are you sure all fuses are ok? Do you have a meter to measure voltage if needed?

When the machine power is OFF you can rotate the reels by hand easily, but when machine power is ON the reels should have a stiffness to being rotated by hand if they are getting power. Does this happen?

The mpu board plugs into another circuit board below it that is called the motherboard. How does it look? Any damaged cables? Remove the hopper and take a photo of the motherboard for us to see it.

On the side of the machine with the pull handle there is usually a metal idplate that has some information printed on it like model number. If that idplate is there post a photo of it.

Are there used slot machines for sale often in S. Africa, like online dealers or privates sales, newspaper, craigslist, etc? What is the availability of used machines? Are there casinos or cruise ships there that sell older machines when they are done with them?

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Author Topic: DREAM ALMOST SHATTERED....PLEASE HELP (Read 3435 times)