Machine stuck in 61 loop.

[anchorbru@outlook.com]

SP731

[Stayouttadabunker]

That SP731 chip is probably corrupted and no good.

The glass on the chip is uncovered.

The label or sticker that's on there is too small to fully cover over the whole glass on top of the chip.

Just plain old light will corrupt it.

You need a new chip.

Contact member RB...he will have one for you.

[shortrackskater]

One photo of your board is fine. There's no need to post three of the same thing. I've deleted your duplicate posts and added "SP" to the chip type number.
Thank You
NLG moderator.

[shortrackskater]

I kept posting and didn

Please try using a regular computer/laptop. 

[knagl]

That SP731 chip is probably corrupted and no good.

The glass on the chip is uncovered.

The label or sticker that's on there is too small to fully cover over the whole glass on top of the chip.

Just plain old light will corrupt it.

UV light can corrupt it in large enough doses. If the OP left his board out in the sun for days it might be an issue. If the board has been installed on its tray inside the machine in relative darkness, it's unlikely the chip was damaged by not having the window covered. 

[Stayouttadabunker]

I tried bv/denom chip in known good machine and works as advertised.  So I know the chip is good

You have two S+'s right?

Try this problem MPU board in the known good machine to see if the SET015 chip works?

If it doesn't work, then you KNOW this MPU is no good.

[anchorbru@outlook.com]

I have done a few thinsg to attempt to narrow this issue:
I read the voltage on the door emitter wires and am reading 9 vdc instead of what it should be, 5 vdc.  Not sure what to do about that.

I did swap in a different MPU and had same issue, stuck at 61....1.  I can jumper the optics and turn key and get the 65....1 and move forward.

I also tried to take the two optics and place them facing to see if I could get the key turned to move forward, no joy...

Also, the "window" on the chip, had the sticker on over it, it fell out while trying to troubleshoot.  I taped it on and did not know that it should cover the window so thanks for that bit of Stayouttadabunker!

What is my next step if I am reading 9vdc instead of the 5vdc?

[Stayouttadabunker]

But did you try this problem MPU into the known good cabinet to see if this MPU is any good?

If you face the emitter and receiver optics at each other,  the [Coins Played] display should go out momentarily,  then come back on.

Here's a trick you can do to check the door emitter optic.
Turn on the power switch, open the fully and...looking at the door emitter bulb with a phone camera, it should be flashing a blue-ish light.
You cannot check the cabinet receiver optic the same way with a camera though, as it does NOT emit any light.

Can you show me where you've seen that the optics should only take 5vdc?

[anchorbru@outlook.com]

I have read a bunch of posts on this site and multiple times I have seen someone, maybe jim post the 5vdc.  I also came across this picture as well

[anchorbru@outlook.com]

I put Mpu in known good machine.  Ran clear and set chips and everything works as it should in other cabinet.  Now what was strange when I put back in original machine now I get a code 43, reel 3 tilt.  Does not clear by opening and closing door.  When I use a iPhone camera I do not see light emmiting from door side optic.

[Stayouttadabunker]

okay...you may have a burned out emitter door optic.

Swap the known good door emitter optic from the other cabinet into this one and see if that [43] error goes away as you close the door.
If it does, then you have to get another door emitter optic diode for the problem machine.

If you're good at soldering components, you can get brand new ones for like .65 cents at places like Twisted Quarter....haha

Here's a link...>>>

https://twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2540

On ebay they can be quite expensive but complete...>>>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303995939316?hash=item46c791e9f4:g:bJQAAOSwJDtgnT9-


or....you can place a WTB ad in the Classifieds section of NLG for a set of 'em.
or thing tho is you have to be a contributing member to place ads.

[anchorbru@outlook.com]

I swapped out the mother board from a donor.  Clear chip and denom chip worked as advertised. Now can

[anchorbru@outlook.com]

I swapped pout the mother board from a donor.  clear chip and denim worked as they should for the first time on this machine.  now cant't get the comparator to work......gave a couple of credits with the button, spun the wheel and I win, 100 credits.that tried to spit out.....code 3100.  Can't clear the code by opening and closing the door.  ended up having to run the clear again...this time hung up on 61....1......again......UGH!!!  I disconnected door optics, reconnected. di sconnected all the connectors from the mother board and reconnected.  disconnected all connectors above MPU and reconnected.  Ran the clear chip as advertised, no hang ups, ran demon and had no issues....  comparator still no work but loaded a couple credits a a few times, won again.  had quarters in the hopper and went to pay out and they paid as they should then popped a 3200........opened door and cleared up the hopper, closed.....still have the code so here we go again....  I think I have a short in a wire or plug......

[Stayouttadabunker]

Well one thing for sure, you haven't serviced your hopper or you wouldn't be getting those hopper codes.
Also, giving and playing a couple of credits with the Service Credits button and any credits accumulated go away when you close the door.

It sounds like your door optics are working intermittently because they worked when you used the SET015 chip and your door was sensed as "Closed" and  were able to play a few games.

Check to see if your door optics are aligned correctly.
Use two pieces of masking tape and a marker.
I can show you how to align them if you need me to.

The good thing is we found that your SP731 chip is okay even thought the protective label wasn't fully covering the UV glass.
However, swapping backplane boards still leaves you in the same place as before...unable to clear codes by closing the door.

Please stop running that Clear chip.
You are NOT stuck in the "[61] loop" - that was removed from the system the 1st time you ran the Clear chip.
You will never clear any codes if the door optics aren't working correctly.
It's more important now that you make sure the door optics are fully working .

[anchorbru@outlook.com]

Good point on the set chip.  I don

[anchorbru@outlook.com]

I am going to open another post summarizing all the things that I have done and changing subject line to be "Door optics woes".  I think this is better suited now that I know that is specifically what it is.

[anchorbru@outlook.com]

I believe that I have narrowed it down to the wires leading to the door side emitter.  The machine is up and running as it should.  I have wiggled those wires and got it to fail and wiggled them again and got it to work.  I do not know where in that wire is the problem but pretty dang sure that that is where I will find the fix.


UPDATE only to maybe help someone else.  Those stupid connectors on the door side and the cabinet, we'll call them the female side not the male side that is on the optics themselves, they were wallered out and randomly making connection.  I took a jewelers screwdriver and spread the two pins on each of the male connecters a bit to get a better connection.  Machine works perfect with no flaws now.  Thanks to all for the help!!