Well, first thing I would do is see if they re any good.
Shine a flashlight at the optics in your hand and see if the flashlight triggers the optics (phototransistors).
You'll know if the "Coins Played" display changes.
In the photo below, if you were to remove the black electrical tape, you could determine which two wires to connect together to bypass your pair of optics....I highlighted them with some yellow arrows.
If you can try to see which two wires are connected to ONE optic, you'll know which other two wires are for the other one.
The tape is covering the wiring configuration.
At the main black connector from top-to-bottom, I see Brown, Green, Purple, and Blue.
The Brown & Green wires have grey stripes.
The Purple and Blue have black stripes.
This means the grey stripes are the "hot" wires, while the black stripes are the ground wires.
Each optic will have one grey wire and one black wire for sure.
Measuring voltage with a multimeter between any "hot" grey striped wire, and to cabinet metal will tell you the voltage going thru it.
Any striped wire should show 5 to 10 volts DC on your meter I believe.
I don't have a manual in front of me at the moment but I always thought on door optics it was 5VDC, while the cabinet side was 8-10VDC.
Yours has both optics (emitter and receiver) in one housing.
The multimeter will also tell you if the voltage is "steady" or "pulsing".
If it's a "pulsing" voltage going thru it, then I don't think connecting the two hot wires together and connecting the two ground wires together will make a bypass...it will burn out something instead.
That's why Jay said it's a little more complicated to bypass a "pulsing" voltage, instead, find a prism/reflector that allows the two optics to "see" each
other or take that housing apart and FACE the two optics AT each other physically.
Good luck!