Author Topic: S+ b/v swap need help Topic Solved (Read 5993 times)

Shaggy · « **on:** October 18, 2014, 01:52:32 PM »

I need help with my validator in my S+. I switched out a wba 11 for a wba 13. Changed the harness, changed the software to ID 023 to be compatible with the S+. Ver. 3.60-30. But with the "new" software it (the b/v) won't boot up at all. If I put the 024 back in it boots up. I have 3 023 EPROMS and it doesn't work with any of them. The validator is enabled. And the 2 red leds are on.

I am needing guidance...Thanks.

CVslots · « **Reply #1 on:** October 18, 2014, 05:37:07 PM »

Isn't there dipswitches that need to be flipped when switching IDOs?

Shaggy · « **Reply #2 on:** October 18, 2014, 05:58:22 PM »

Good point I forgot about that. I'll try giving them the switch and see if that works. Thanks.

foster · « **Reply #3 on:** October 18, 2014, 05:59:09 PM »

I do not think the WBA-12/13 have a combo ID022/23 just the DBV series had firmware that worked that way.
If I remember right the last switch was off for ID023 and on for ID022 for the DBV series.

It might be a bad copy of the firmware?

Shaggy · « **Reply #4 on:** October 18, 2014, 06:27:17 PM »

I have 3 separate EPROMS. But none seem to work. I have switched the dip switches ...2 and 8 and comboed them but it still is dead. Like it doesn't recognize the EPROMS. One of them is out of the wba 11, which test cycled but would never light up or work. The wba 13 only test cycles when the 024 EPROM is in. Stumped to say the least.

Shaggy · « **Reply #5 on:** October 18, 2014, 06:49:51 PM »

So is this 13 not going to work in a S+? Do I need to go back to an 11 and try to get it to work?

foster · « **Reply #6 on:** October 18, 2014, 07:27:52 PM »

It should work if the firmware was burned to the chip from a good file.

I can't remember if the WBA-13 forces a calibration if the firmware is changed.

IF you bought the EPROM's from a reputable vendor on here contact them for help.
if you burned them yourself check where you got the file from.
I say this because i have come across a bad file or two myself concerning eprom's

rickhunter · « **Reply #7 on:** October 18, 2014, 07:49:26 PM »

The eprom for a wba 11 is not the same as a wba13. The WBA 11 uses 1 Mbit eproms, the WBA 13 uses 4 Mbit eproms. On my S+ the WBA13 has all the switches down in the off position.

Shaggy · « **Reply #8 on:** October 18, 2014, 08:09:15 PM »

So put all the dip switches in the off position and it should work? I'll give that a try. Thanks.

Shaggy · « **Reply #9 on:** October 18, 2014, 08:19:05 PM »

I tried it no change. Then I turned them all up and it gave me a reel mech. error. It would not clear so I switched it back and cleared it and back to square one.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #10 on:** October 19, 2014, 03:26:46 PM »

What version is the transport? I had some here that would not work for S+ or S 2000

Shaggy · « **Reply #11 on:** October 19, 2014, 04:35:46 PM »

Do you mean the EPROM or the b/v itself? One of the EPROMs is out of the old b/v and it won't work in the 13. But works enough in the 11 to cycle but it doesn't light up. Does nothing in the 13. The transport says: 0402104986 WBA13SS USA-501-24. The transport version is: V3.38-29 CS=C3EC. This validator with the 024 EPROM works perfectly in my S2000. Thanks, Dave

Shaggy · « **Reply #12 on:** October 20, 2014, 08:04:05 AM »

Well I've tried every combo and the wba 13 will not even recognize the ID023 EPROMS. I've the 11 back in and tried the dip switch #2 on and off no difference. It comes on runs a couple of seconds stops reels spin etc. Close the door everything on the machine works perfect but the b/v never comes on line. Anybody? I only want to get it going because I get tired of plugging 25Â¢ in for hours. Thanks, Dave

rickhunter · « **Reply #13 on:** October 20, 2014, 11:40:48 AM »

Where are you located? Maybe someone here lives close to you where you could take your validator to try on a known working S+ to verify that your validator eprom is the correct one. If you just want to avoid putting in coin after coin, you could just tokenize your machine. There's a set of chips you can replace the ones you have that will allow each coin to give you up to 99 credits per coin. So you could just feed it like 10 coins and have 990 credits to play. You could probably pick the 2 chips you need (SP1137 and a SET86) for under $30.

Shaggy · « **Reply #14 on:** October 20, 2014, 11:53:54 AM »

Thanks for the reply. I doubt I live close to anyone on here. I kind of like the idea of tokenizing the machine. Yeah the b/v has no sentimental value I just get tired of dirty fingers and constantly dropping coins. Is there instructions anywhere for setup of this? I'm really interested as I have another S+ without a b/v. Thank you so much, this makes my day.

slots4home · « **Reply #15 on:** October 20, 2014, 11:55:08 AM »

My question is what game chip is in the machine?
It it is a old one it may not work with the WBA.

Shaggy · « **Reply #16 on:** October 20, 2014, 11:58:36 AM »

Let me check and I'll get back to you.

Shaggy · « **Reply #17 on:** October 20, 2014, 12:01:06 PM »

It's an SP 1048 type 0/1/4/5. Good or bad? Also could the reel chip ss4785 (1-64) cause the trouble?

slots4home · « **Reply #18 on:** October 20, 2014, 12:24:22 PM »

I would think that the 1048 would work but not positive.
You might try one a little newer just to check.
The reel chip should not matter
What about the WBA power supply?
Do u know if it is good?

Shaggy · « **Reply #19 on:** October 20, 2014, 12:26:59 PM »

The 2 LEDs are on and the b/v grinds/cycles but never comes on after the door is shut.

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Author Topic: S+ b/v swap need help **Topic Solved** (Read 5993 times)

Author Topic: S+ b/v swap need help Topic Solved (Read 5993 times)