IGT S-Plus Bill Validator Not Working

[twinfire]

Hi again everyone, got my S+ “MOOLAH” finally working!

Member “Jim” came to my rescue by sending me a complete MPU mounted on tray with x-former & the proper game/reel chips to match the machine.

Thanks Jim!! Oh and by the way Jim, it arrived earlier than expected too! 

Anyway, this is a 25 cent machine and seems to be working just fine with the coins.

Unfortunately, just like my other machine I posted here (https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=41041.0) I can’t seem to get the Bill Validator working.

I’ve done the set chip and doublechecked it, both machines are set to 9_1 in the winner paid window & the denomination set to 25 cents, the BV shows no sign of life other than the cycling when the machine is first turned on & the red laser looking lights that you can see where you insert the bills.

As of now, I can’t even get the BV light to turn on during the self test.

Any help you can share would be greatly appreciated,

Thank You

[RB]

Which BV model do you have? ID022/023? Is the stacker door completely closed or switch bypassed?
You aren't providing enough information and/or pictures.

[twinfire]

Hi RB & thank you for the clear/set chips you sent me, worked great for getting my other machine up and running again including the DBV! All is well with that machine now!

I have finally had a chance to get back to this machine in hopes of getting the BV working.

To answer your questions RB, the BV model is WBA-11-SS picture of the sticker attached.

The stacker door is bypassed and everything is seated.

As mentioned above I can’t even get the BV light to turn on during the input test 27_0, or the output test 26.

Yes, the BV has been enabled via the set chip 015.

Not sure how to proceed next, any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks

[rickhunter]

Does the validator cycle (makes mechanical noises at power up)?  There's a blinking red led on the right side of the validator where the dip switches are located, is it lit?

[twinfire]

Does the validator cycle (makes mechanical noises at power up)?  There's a blinking red led on the right side of the validator where the dip switches are located, is it lit?

Hi Rick,

Yes it cycles one time at power up.

Mine has two red led lit up solid next to the dip switches.

By the way, what position should these dip switches be in?

[twinfire]

Here is a picture of the chip inside the Bill Validator if it helps.

[twinfire]

Ok, I think I answered my own question on the dip switch settings; all should be in the off position.

Bill Validator still not working, but now a new problem? 

I don’t know what happened, but now when the machine is turned on a 42 code appears in the winner paid window & the hopper runs continuously. It will not reset & nothing I can do will stop it except turning the machine off, but when turned back on the machine does the same thing again.

I decided screw it, cleared the machine using the clear chip, I now get the 61 code as expected, but the hopper still running wild & all the game buttons are lit up including the candle. Pressing the little white test button does nothing, nor does the jackpot reset. I shut down the machine then turned it back on and the same thing. I decided to remove & bench test both the white test button along with the jackpot reset switch, both checked good.

I found that if I toggle the power on off switch a few times the hopper will stop rotating, but pressing the test button will not advance to the 61_1 for final clear using the jackpot reset.

I have used the clear chip process twice now & nothing has changed, the hopper runs rampant & I can’t get the 61 to go away. 

Ever heard of such a thing?                                                                                                                           
                                                                                                                         

[twinfire]

I cannot figure this out.

This time I decided to remove the chips on the MPU, the game/reel chips & the other removable chips along with the removable battery just to start over. I let everything sit overnight. Next day I carefully reinstalled the chips & battery then put the MPU back into the machine. I started with the clear chip installed & went through the process. Of course I got 61 code & I then pressed the little white test button in order for it to advance to the 61_1 code. No dice, it is stuck on the 61 & will not change, or advance to the 61_1 or anything else. The jackpot reset does nothing either.

This thing is stuck in the 61 no matter what I try.

I must be doing something wrong, but I have no idea what. 

Any Ideas, anyone?

I could sure use some help,

Thanks

[Tilt]

It sounds like your MPU board has failed.  What and why I don't know, but that's what I'd be replacing.

[twinfire]

Oh my gosh, I sure hope not Tilt!

I just put one in less than 2 weeks ago & it seemed to be working fine with quarters!

Please tell me it could possibly be something else that I’m missing.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Although I also believe the problem may lie with the MPU, I'd try a swap of the motherboard.
I believe the eeprom chip has failed on it....the chip has to be updated with accounting stuff every 100 spins.
Sometimes it goes bad and doesn't let the Clear chip do it's job....the clear chip cannot clear the motherboard chip correctly.
It's an 8-pin chip located all the way to the left-hand side of the motherboard.
I do not know if you're capable of removing the chip (24C04) and soldering in a socket for a new chip.
I pasted a photo of it below.
That's why I said it's worth a chance swapping out the motherboard...plus, it's a lot cheaper than an MPU these days.

Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

[Jim]

these boards are pretty durable and have been proven to last a long time. usually , the only thing that goes wrong is the battery will go out after 5-10 years. have know idea why you keep clearing the board and pulling chips out and letting them rest overnight, there is no reason to do this this, these boards are digital , either on or off or broke. no waiting for them to warm up.

the bill unit is a unit unto itself, it has it own power supply (only relies on the machine for 110vac )  it is connected to the motherboard
at J-6.with the board removed you can test the transport to see if it is actually working. reading your other posts ,you said you took the motherboard out of this machine and put it in the 5x pay machine, perhaps when you installed a motherboard in this machine you didn't get that connector in the right place, that might be the problem not turning on the lamps in test 27, if that connector is not in the right place that command to turn them on would never get to the transport. please check all your connections again and verify that they are correct. there is also an I/O board inside the power supply mounted on the side of the metal housing!

now, to test you bill unit , remove the transport, flip switches 1-2-3 and 8 down, remove the cash can from its place, install the transport back in the machine, apply power to machine, verify two red LEDS are on solid over the switch bank, now flip switch 8 up, unit should cycle briefly , now if this unit is working, you should be able to insert a dollar bill into the unit face up and head toward left, (WBA11 only has one way acceptance) if the unit works it will pull in the bill and deposit it where the cash can would have been.
you can do this as many times as you like. if it does this your transport is doing what it should, if it does not do this, then the unit is broke, plain and simple, either the main body with the board is bad or the head is bad, you can swap heads with the working machine to eliminate it ,same for the main body , same for the entire unit  . before you swap , make sure all switches are up.

this should tell you without a doubt, what is wrong with the bill unit, cash can can be interchanged with other machine to determine if it is good.

check the wiring on motherboard, check the bill unit, then we have to figure out what went on with the board, since it was working when you received it.

Hope this helps

Jim

[twinfire]

Stayouttadabunker & Jim

Thank you very much for the detailed response.

As of now I’m not so concerned about the BV as I am the MPU.

Since I have another S+ machine, I took the MPU out of the problem machine & put it in the good working machine. The problem followed over to the good machine, so I’m assuming the MPU has failed for some reason?

Jim, is there something on the MPU I should be looking closely at?

All the pins on the connectors are good and straight & it seems to fit into the motherboard nicely.

Ideas?

[twinfire]

I looked the MPU over & noticed that the porcelain on one resistor looks to be chipped, or popping off?

Would this have anything to do with my problem?

Picture attached

Thanks

[Stayouttadabunker]

I looked the MPU over & noticed that the porcelain on one resistor looks to be chipped, or popping off?
Would this have anything to do with my problem?

No....that's the 5-resistor pack for the reels.
If when powered up, and your 1st left-most reel is "energized" and"stiff", that [R1] resistor is fine.
If ONLY that 1st reel is "free & loose" and you think that 1st [R1] resistor is bad, cut the resistor body off, but leave the to wire end pieces soldered in the MPU board.
Now, cut 4th or 5th resistor off with a sharp pair of dikes as close as you can to the circuit board, and solder the legs to of it to the two wires you left in the [R1] location.
The 4th and 5th resistors are for S+ games that require 4 or 5 reels....yours is just a regular three-reeled game, and those bottom two resistors are not needed.

Have you tried Jim's BV test that he suggested?
This topic really, is about your BV not working.

[twinfire]

No....that's the 5-resistor pack for the reels.
If when powered up, and your 1st left-most reel is "energized" and “stiff", that [R1] resistor is fine.

Stayouttadabunker,

Thanks for the heads-up on the resistors & yes all reels become stiff when powered up.

This topic really, is about your BV not working.

Ok Stayouttadabunker, I will stay on topic

Have you tried Jim's BV test that he suggested?

I performed the BV test with cash can removed (1-2-3 and 8 down, or “on”, then power up, 2 red LEDs lit solid, then flip 8 up “off”) the BV did cycle briefly but would not even attempt to take in a bill.             

Ok, BV apparently bad, unfortunately, I can’t switch heads for testing purposes with my other unit as it is a DBV-45. At this point, I’m ok with a non working BV & would like to move forward with troubleshooting the MPU now if that’s ok.

Stayouttadabunker,

Do you think I should start a new topic/post about my “stuck-in the 61 code and can’t get out”, or just continue on with it here?

Thank You

[twinfire]

So, I decided to look over the problem MPU a little closer to see if I could spot any signs that would indicate a potential issue (something burnt, or odd looking) that might be causing my problem.

Well, I did find a couple things disturbing that I’m a little confused about. There seems to be what looks to me like solder blobs, or solder spatter across portions of the board. One spot in particular is a blob of solder that looks to have fused two terminals together on what I think is some sort of logic chip. There is also various solder spatter, or blobs on resistors & the circuit board traces. The problem board as compared to the good working board is missing two diodes, but it also looks as if they were never there to begin with, so maybe that’s how this board was actually made?

I'm also concerned about what I am not seeing, could be more spatter in areas that I just can't see.

Anyway, I have uploaded pictures to an image hosting site for better clarity so you can see what I’m talking about. Please have a look at the pictures and see if any of this could be causing the problem with this board.

Pic No.1: Chipped Resistor  https://i.imgur.com/KiRSbmV.jpg
Pic No. 2: Missing Diodes  https://i.imgur.com/mE2QnE7.jpg
Pic No. 3: Good Board With Diodes https://i.imgur.com/OFMbnV7.jpg
Pic No. 4: Solder Blobs  https://i.imgur.com/VMLvZn2.jpg
Pic No. 5: The good board has no solder across the logic chip terminals  https://i.imgur.com/3UFGosM.jpg
Pic No. 6: More Solder Blobs  https://i.imgur.com/71oIWHM.jpg

You'll notice that I was able to change one side of the photos to 1000kb so they could be shown here.
Limitations force me to add your last photo to the bottom of the next Reply.

[Tilt]

I don't see anything of concern in the pics.  Board with/without diodes is probably a different REV, not uncommon.

I think you're grabbing at straws.  The board was working with all the things you pointed out as being potential problems.  Are you sure when you were doing removing components, clearing etc, that you didn't remove or install the board with the power on?  That would seem more reasonable to me based on the symptoms you described.  No matter how you dice it, you have a bad MPU now, you proved that.  Time for a new one or send that one off for repair.

[twinfire]

Hi Tilt,

As always thanks once again for your input! 

I don't see anything of concern in the pics.

Maybe your right, but seeing that logic chip with that blob of solder across the two pins threw up red flags for me especially since nothing should be touching those pins! 

Board with/without diodes is probably a different REV, not uncommon.

Yep, I checked the boards REV & they are in fact different.

I think you're grabbing at straws.

Well, that maybe, I’m only trying to troubleshoot this in hopes to find a simple fix.

Are you sure when you were doing removing components, clearing etc, that you didn't remove or install the board with the power on?  That would seem more reasonable to me based on the symptoms you described.

I only did the component removal & clearing after the machine was already acting up giving me problems as stated above in Reply #6. Doing the BV test Jim recommended was the first time I’ve worked on it while being plugged in.

No matter how you dice it, you have a bad MPU now, you proved that.  Time for a new one or send that one off for repair.

Tilt, I think you may be right; I was just hoping I could spot a faulty component on the board & replace it. Or, maybe one of you know which component to focus on that would cause the 61 to be stuck & not advance to the 61_1 when pressing the little white test button. Do you think it is at all possible that the little blob of solder stuck on the logic chip pins could be the culprit not letting the 61 to advance when the test button is pressed? Come to think of it, I’ve never had to use the clear chip on this board before, so I wouldn’t know if it would reset or not.

I sure hope Jim will see this & chime in; he seems to be a master at trouble shooting these machines along with repairing them as well. Hopefully he will have some ideas & can recommend what to do.

Thanks again all!

[Tilt]

I missed one of your photos.  That solder bridge across pins 4 and 5 of U63 should not be there.  Good eye!  Remove it and see what happens.