IGT SPlus 3100 code

[Stayouttadabunker]

Move the door latch slowly up and down while watching the [Coins Played] display...tell us what you see.
Hopefully, it's just an alignment issue.
We could tell you how to align the door optics.
If you can't get anything to change in the [Coins Played] window on the display at all, I will have to say you need to then try checking the door emitter optic by viewing it with a digital camera while the when the machine's power switch is ON, and the door opened.
You should be able to see with camera, a blue-ish or purple-ish light coming out of the emitter.
Let us know if you see anything?

Are you able to post pictures?
Can you turn the power OFF, slide out the MPU, and take a picture of the software chips?
Jay politely asked you what chips you had in Reply #6....I was wondering if you were ever going to answer him....  

Below are a couple of pictures of the door emitter optic for you.
Click on any photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

[Gumbo]

My apologies, Im seeing replies on my phone that im not seeing on my laptop. Ive tried to attach photo of my chips {says file to large} Chip numbers are SP1048 and SS4662. Ive tried the door procedure as instructed by Bunker with no results. still need to try the camera thing.

[Gumbo]

My Phone camera shows a flashing purple light in the door latch side but the optic in the cabinet side is not doing anything. So im guessing its bad. But ill wait for your instructions on the next move. This has been an interesting ride and i do appreciate everyone's input.

[Stayouttadabunker]

The cabinet receiver optic does NOT emit light rather, it's made to receive infrared light.
That's why you cannot see anything on its lens.
I do not know if you are capable or not of testing this cabinet reciever optic...one needs a multimeter to read ohms.

To test the door receiver optic, you have to unplug its 2-pin Molex connector from the harness that runs back to the MPU.
Now you put the probes of the multimeter into the two male pins inside the Molex housing of the cabinet reciever.
The multimeter will respond in ohms, as you shine a flashlight across a good recever optic.
Of course, if the multimeter doesn't respond, it's dead.

Now, there's a test that you can do to test the door optics, but since you didn't get a response from the door optics while looking at the [Coins Played] window on the display, and raising/lowering the door latch in attempt to line them up to each other, I would have to say that because you see infrared light with a camera coming out of the door emitter, the cabinet receiver is dead.

[jay]

When you take a photo with your phone email it to yourself - you will be given an option to reduce the size of the file.
Then post the reduced sized photo.

Just a quick running tally:
You have proven your hopper and hopper optics are good.
The Self Test you ran tells us the logic on the MPU board drives the hopper just fine so we believe at this point your MPU is good.

What is not working is that when you close your door the LED screens are not changing, this leads us to believe that your door optics or at least the receiver is blown. They are very sensitive so may have been damaged when you inserted your hopper with the power on.

What StayOutofTheBunker didn't mention is that you could also extend your receiver optics and put it directly against the emitter as a test.This basically ensures that the door alignment is not at issue.

[Gumbo]

Itested the one in the cabinet with ohm meter and flashlight , i did in fact get a reading. then i extended it out of its bracket to the door and placed it in front perfectly, nothing happened. So then i had seen where you can run a test by going to 10/1 then turn the set key untill it says 13/0 then close the door and it should flash 13/0 13/1 and back and forth if working. It did not, it simply stayed on 13/0 I feel were making progress. I will work on reducing pics.

[jay]

You would simulate the door opening and closing by removing your coupled optics and then putting them back together again.

[Gumbo]

Yes sir thats what i did

[Stayouttadabunker]

Hmm...those are very thin wires going into the end of the TO-46 metal can package of the optic.
You could very easily break one of the wires taking a receiver optic can out of the cabinet holder.
Extremely delicate stuff.
It would be better to remove the two Philips screws that hold the black plastic holder on the cabinet bracket.

I'd test it with the flashlight again....to see if it stills gives a response.
It's a hard test to do because you have to hold the multimeter probes onto the two pins, and then a hand to move the flashlight back and forth across the receiver.

Not enough hands.

I'm lucky because I use a spare female Molex with two wires, to check receiver optics.
I use tiny, mini-hook leads on my multimeter to hold onto the pins and wires, instead of the pointy pen ones where you have to actually touch onto the pins.

 

[jay]

You have no idea of how hard I just got slapped when I asked my wife for a bit of help.
Perhaps it was me referring to her as a “  spare female Molex” you be careful !!! 

[Stayouttadabunker]

oh...the male Molex always gets it wrong....haha

[Gumbo]

I will do further testing in the moring, Thanks guys Goodnight

[Gumbo]

Update. After going back over our messages and testing each thing again. i determined that the door optic receiver was not working. So i did the only thing i could think of to confirm this. I made a jumper wire and it immediately cleared the 3100 code and works as normal. So i unpluged it and will be ordering a new receiver optic. I may not should have done it that way but i get impatient at times. I want to thank each and every guy that help me along the way . Could not have done it without yalls knowledge and guidance. This is an  unbelievably helpful site. I dont have much money but i feel the need to donate because you guys really wre patient and helpful. Thanks to all involved.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Glad you got the code cleared!
You can easily leave the jumper plugged in and play your machine - bypassing optics doesn't hurt anything. 
The only time you really need to have real optics in there is for when one would need to use Clear chip to get out of the [61-1] Loop.
That rarely happens.

[Gumbo]

Thats good to know, But i would like to keep the machine as original as possible. I have already ordered the replacement optic. Next on the list is to get all lamps working again. Now in this department Im not against upgrading to LEDs. Again im very grateful for the assistance I received at this site.